by glenn on July 30, 2010
(Disclaimer – I apologize – but not too profusely – for the title of this post. Having been “born bad” – without a sufficiency of better judgement – I just couldn’t resist; yet I’m positive I won’t be the only blogger guilty of being lured to triteness. Glenn.)
Glenn – The subject line of Katrin’s email was “Next new place”. Opening it up, the text was brief “The Gallows another gastropub in South End”. I had recently received a Zagat email about the place and knew that the people who did The Biltmore, the original gastropub in the Western Suburbs, were behind the project. Gastropub, bistro, brasserie, tavern - whatever – I thought the concept bordered on being overworked. However, as the recession continues – and continues – the idea of mixing good cocktails and comfort food continues to have appeal. We’ve been to some of the best and most inspired – a “tavern” in a boutique hotel – and the not so good and lacklustre – a “bistro” in a clothing store on the waterfont. So, why not try another? And they also serve up that somewhat minor food trend – poutine – straight from the canon of French-Canadian cookery.
Katrin - The interior is simple but well-designed with eye-catching design details. Plus looking out to the street from the bar area, the expanse of windows are filled with the Cathedral of the Holy Cross across the street. We both started with cocktails; Glenn had the “hysteria-inducing” Elisabeth Aplegate, which featured gin, absinthe, and cucumber puree, while I chose the Angel’s Share, named for the wine that evaporates during aging. Both were good starters, before the food and wine. The wine list is well-selected and fairly priced, with enough options to keep both of our interests.
Glenn – I have to say I really admired the design and typography of the menu. I know that stylistically it references the historic nature of the Sound End site where The Gallows sits – that of the colonial hanging ground of Boston on the Washington St. neck – but I found it well done. And what a menu! We finally picked 5 items – 2 from the “hors d’oeuvres” section, 1 from the “meats section”, 1 from the “poutine” section and 1 from the “mains”.
Katrin - The menu presented somewhat of a quandry, offering too many dishes that both of us wanted to try. In the end our five items were a bit too much food, though everything was excellent. Our hors d’oeuvres were a satisfying variety of tastes and textures. I was still thinking about the Buffalo Chicken Livers today and how perfectly spicy and delicately crispy they were. The firm Bourbon pickled peaches were still firm and subtley sweet and sour. We shared the traditional poutine and the Meyer Ranch Brisket, both of which were generous portions and would have been perfect on a chilly fall evening.
Glenn – Without a doubt, the Buffalo Chicken Livers were my favorite. Why hadn’t I seen these before? I also liked the pork terrine – well seasoned and presented and so reasonably priced. I like this trend that we’ve been seeing of house-made charcuterie. The poutine was fine but as I said earlier, I think of this as a somewhat minor trend.
Katrin – In closing, The Gallows was a delightful dining experience – the setting, the service, and the food. I am very much looking forward to returning and trying some of the other offerings, especially the platters. Great addition to the growing list of gastropubs in Boston and to the South End.
by katrin on June 14, 2010
One of the many great things about Argentine wines currently available on the US market is the diversity of styles that can be found. While my last post featured an example of an oaky wine in the New World style, I found myself opening a more streamlined and rustic wine today. Though both are from Mendoza and made of a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, and Merlot (though in different proportions), the Cicchitti Blend is remarkably different.
Right away, the bright ruby-purple color gives away the fact that the Malbec is dominant. The nose is more restrained, but eventually warms up to plum jam, earth, hay, and cassis. While there are some hints of oak, it definitely takes a backseat. In the mouth, it has more cherry and cassis flavors, withdry, earthy qualities.
The mouth feel is less smooth and integrated than the Finca Flichman – the tannins are rougher and the acidity fairly high, making for a taut wine. Yet despite this, the finish is fairly short, and the wine does not seem to have enough fruit to balance out the tannins and acidity. Overall, not a great wine on its own, but it goes well with food. It reminds me of how Argentine wines tasted before winemakers focused on meeting the tastes of the international market, before the flying winemakers, before heavy investments in new equipment and techniques in the vineyards and wineries – a touch rustic, a bit simpler.
The Cicchitti Blend was purchased for under $15 on a recent road trip to Buck’s County – though this actually came from a great little store across the Delaware River in Stockton, New Jersey.
by katrin on June 13, 2010
If you are looking for an excellent example of a New World-style red wine for less than $20, this could be the wine for you. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, and Merlot, the Paisaje de Tupungato is an impressive Argentine wine, made by a winery that is celebrating its 100th anniversary this year.
In the glass, it is deep ruby with a hint of some brick coming through. The aromas lift right out of the glass. There’s an immediate vanilla oak sweetness, followed by black cherry, plums, red currants, and some cedar. The palate carries forward the same fruits, but with a slight herbal quality, perhaps dill, mocha, and some spiciness.
One of the reasons I like this wine so much is that it is very well balanced and integrated. The new oak, while obviously present, does not overwhelm the wine, but rather adds tannins and flavor complexity. The acidity, tannins, and alcohol are well-proportioned and in balance. And the plum and red currant flavors are part of a lasting finish. Check it out at Federal Wine & Spirits for $17.99.
by glenn on April 19, 2010
GLENN – Let’s get this out of the way at the get-go. I was not the oldest person at the Wine Riot – I was the second oldest. The Second Glass, sponsor of the event, aims for a young demographic and panders to the perception that older wine lovers are wine snobs ready to shoot down any young wine novice who wanders into their range of fire. Come to the Wine Riot, taste among your own kind and don’t worry about the disapproval of the geezers. The language used to push the Wine Riot is actually humorous – Really, what is a “baller wine”, really?
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by katrin on April 4, 2010
Before each Sunday Night Supper Club, we gather to sample wines and make decisions on which ones will best represent the dinner theme and complement the menu. The Spanish white wines for our most recent dinner presented a surprising challenge. In our first round of tasting, we sampled eleven wines – two sparkling, two Sherries, and the rest still. The wines came from several different regions and were mostly made from indigenous varietals, in other words, grapes that are considered Spanish rather than international varietals such as Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc. We were certain that we would find five wines that we could all agree on, but we could not. On to round two and another dozen wines!
One of the wines that I had selected thinking it was primarily Macabeo was the 2007 Bodega Pirineos Mesache White. We decided to not even open this wine because it was actually a blend dominated by non-Spanish grapes: 30% Chardonnay, 35% Gewurztraminer, and 35% Macabeo. Also called Viura in the Rioja, Macabeo is one of the varietals used in making Cava.
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by katrin on February 16, 2010
It is a bit unusual for me to drink two bottles of wine made of the same varietal from the same country back-to-back. But after having finished the review of the Caligiore Syrah (see my previous post), the bottle of Luigi Bosca Syrah called to me and I wondered how these wines would compare.
by rodney on January 16, 2010
“To invite someone is to take charge of his happiness during the time he spends under your roof.”
Jean-Anthelme Brillat-Savarin
Happiness was the perfect descriptor from start to finish during our inaugurual Sunday Night Supper Club. Judging by the accolades from our guests, the experience was one not soon to be forgotten. Even before the dinner was finished, we were all anticipating the next one.
Guests were greeted with an aperitif of sparkling wine from Roederer Estates while awaiting everyone’s arrival. After we were all properly introduced and given time to get to know each other, I welcomed everyone to the Sunday Night Supper Club (SNSC) and explained the impetus and motivation for the event. Our theme for the evening, American Bordeaux, explored Bordeaux varietals and styles created in the US. [click to continue…]
