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Wine tasting

April Trade Show Round-up – Languedoc and The Loire

by glenn and katrin on May 2, 2012

Languedoc – L’Aventure Languedoc

 Languedoc , including Roussillon, is the largest wine producing region of not only France, but the world. However, only lately have sales of the region’s wines seen an uptick due to the increasingly favorable perception of the region. Though there have always been producers of quality wine here, the majority of wine was often poor plonk, much of it destined for the European wine lake. Now the situation is improving. Growers and winemakers, seeing the implications for them of the growing international wine trade, have started to turn the region around. Languedoc wines are both accessible and good value – key selling points for American wine buyers. To further promote the improved quality of Languedoc AOC wines, CIVL, the trade council representing these wines, is presenting for the first time L’Adventure Languedoc, a series of events for both consumers and the trade across the US. In Boston, the event was held at the Boston Conference Center, a wonderfully refurbished venue at the end of the Boston Fish Pier.

 Since I’m a fan of the Piquepol grape, I was more than happy to have the opportunity to taste a variety of offerings from the appellation, Picpoul de Pinet, where the grape plays a starring role. The wines ranged from ultra racy to rich and full-bodied. My favorite of the lot was the 2010 Paul Mas Estates Picpoul de Pinet Grand Vin de Languedoc. In anticipation of summer, we zoomed in on rosés; my favorite the 2011 Château Sainte Eulalie Plaisir d’Eulalie Minervois. As for reds, I favored wines where Syrah was the dominant varietal. I thoroughly enjoyed the 2007 Pierre Gaillard Faugères Transhumance from the noted M. Gaillard, a vigneron based in the Northern Rhone  but who now  has a domaine in Languedoc. Also outstanding was the 2009 Hecht and Bannier Minervois. Katrin’s top five, in no particular order, were the 2009 Chateau Sainte Eulalie Minervois la Liviniére La Cantilene; the 2010 Paul Mas Estates Picpoul de Pinet Grand Vin de Languedoc; the 2007 Pierre Gaillard Faugères Transhumance; the 2011 Cave de Pomerols 100% Syrah – Sud de France Rosé; the 2011 Castelmaure Corbières Rosé.

Loire – Loire Valley Wines

The Loire Valley is no longer terra incognita to American wine buyers. Wines that have long been popular in France – Loire wines are the mainstay of the cartes de vin in French bistros – are now appreciated here and more easily found than ever. These wines represent a multitude of both white and red varietals and styles – racy or full-bodied whites, light or hearty reds, rosés both dry and off-dry and sparklers. Literally, in the Loire, there is something for every taste.

Like last year, the Loire Valley Wines trade show was held at the EMC Club at Fenway Park. Understandably, the venue competed with the wines, even more so since it was the day before the home opener. Yet, we were able to focus on the task at hand. First off, if ever we regretted not having an importer’s license, it was at this event. Most of the wines had no Massachusetts importers. And since we were merely press, our praise for the participants’ wines was faint indeed. We tasted racy Sauvignon Blancs with wonderful grapefruit zip; an obscure but delicious white varietal – Romorantin; both delicate Pinot Noirs and more robust iterations of this grape; spot-on renditions of Cabernet Franc; and sparkling Cremants de Loire that  rivaled some Champagnes. We could taste but couldn’t buy out in the real world and consequently felt that we wouldn’t recommend wines unavailable in Massachusetts. Hopefully, some of these good quality wines found an importer and will be available in the future. At some point, we grabbed a glass of a particularly toothsome Cab Franc to savor and made our way to the outside seats to contemplate the Old Ballyard.

An interesting aspect of the show was the prominence – at least it seemed to us –  of off-dry rosés. I initially felt this inclusion was misguided – Americans want dry wines. But do they? With the recent emergence of Muscat/Moscato, perhaps these rosés represent an emerging trend. And frankly, as one who doesn’t fear sugar, I found several quite captivating, perfect summer aperitifs.

 

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Contemplating the Old Ballyard

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He Said, She Said – An Evening of Bubbles and Bites at Finale Desserterie & Bakery

by glenn and katrin on March 2, 2012

The Pairing Menu for Bubbles and Bites

2010 Michele Chiarlo, Moscato d’Asti “Nivole” (Piedmont, Italy) paired with crème brûlée
2009 Rosa Regale, Brachetto d’Acqui (Piedmont, Italy) paired with a Manjari Mousse Cup
NV Nino Franco “Rustico” Prosecco (Veneto, Italy) paired with Finale’s signature Cheesecake
NV “Anna de Codorniu” Brut Cava (Spain) paired with a Fruit Tart
NV Chandon, Brut (California) paired with a Key Lime Tart

The Bites

Glenn –  We were fortunate to be invited by Mindy Valone of CM Communications to attend the “Bites and Bubbles” tasting at the Park Plaza Finale, an event pairing desserts with sparkling wines. Dessert and sparklers – how could we ever refuse such an invitation? Recently, Zagat cited Finale as one of the top five “dessert spots” in Boston. A trip to either the Harvard Square or Park Plaza locations verifies this claim. Chef Nicole Coady interprets the canon of modern American desserts in an extremely delicious fashion. For this event, five desserts were paired with five wines. We began with the simple but perfect crème brûlée and progressed to more complex challenging flavors. As evidenced by the desserts we sampled, flavors and textures were spot on. And the wine selections were appropriate to each, complementing the sweetness and assertiveness of each “bite”.

Katrin – I have been getting over having had the flu for the past week or so, and it has definitely had an impact on my sense of taste and smell. Everything is still a bit off, particularly wines, and unfortunately I missed some of the more delicate interactions between the wines and the dessert pairings. The order of the tasting didn’t help that fact at all. We started with the sweetest wines and moved on to the driest.  It was difficult to enjoy the Prosecco, and even more so the Cava and sparkler from California, after tasting the Michele Chiarlo Moscato d’Asti and the Rosa Regale. Their sweetness lingered and affected the flavor of the drier wines. Nevertheless, the desserts were incredible, and I was particularly struck by the smoothness of the crème brûlée, incredibly silky mouthfeel of the chocolate mousse, and the lightness of the cheesecake.  Delicious!

Glenn – From Katrin’s wine perspective, she found the wines out of order. However, from my culinary perspective, I found the progression satisfying. The key for me was acidity. The sweet, low acid, low alcohol wines were paired with simple desserts such as the crème brûlée and the chocolate mousse while the more acidic cheesecake, fruit tart and, most acidic, key lime tart were matched with drier more acidic wines.

The "Bubbles"

Katrin – Jon Sherwood from Horizon Beverage was our knowledgeable guide through the sparkling wines.  He did an excellent job making the complex process of how sparkling wine is made accessible to everyone there regardless of how much they knew about wine and talking about the regions in which the wines were produced. One of my biggest wine pet peeves is hearing people refer to all sparkling wines as Champagne, so I was relieved that Jon explained the difference right at the outset.

Glenn – There was a tag team approach to the evening. John Sherwood would discuss each wine as we were guided through the pairings and then he would hand-off to Chef Coady who would discuss the dessert. The duo would then circulate among the guests answering questions. It was this face-to-face interaction which elevated the evening beyond a mere tasting event. During the evening, we learned that one of Chef Coady’s passions is vanilla. She explained the different varieties she uses and how they effect flavor – Tahitian for floral tones, Mexican for an earthy accent. And she’s leaving shortly for Madagascar, one of the world’s center for chocolate production. Now that trip will be sweet as was our evening.

Katrin – Many thanks to Chef Coady for the wonderful pastries, Jon for sharing his wine knowledge, Brian Berry, the manager of Finale, for his hospitality, and of course Mindy Valone of CM Communications for putting it all together!

One final view of Chef Coady's wonderful desserts

Finale offers a varied program of dessert and beverage events. A calendar of these special evenings can be found here.
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Wine for 500 (or how to please everyone without resorting to the lowest common denominator)

by katrin on January 31, 2012

Saturday was a big night: a celebration with 500 of my organization’s nearest and dearest donors, volunteers, and friends. I had been mulling over the wine selection for weeks, tasting various options with colleagues and on my own, writing about the results, and even getting suggestions from you, our readers. In the end, the selection for the bar during the reception and for the dinner ended up being a sampling of some of my favorite wines of the past year or so that met two qualifications. First, they were within my price range of $16 or less after any discounts. And second, I thought that they would be well-received, in other words, interesting and delicious, but not overly challenging for people who thought they would be able to get a simple choice between a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc and an Australian Shiraz.

In the back of my mind, I know that it’s impossible to please everyone – though I did give it my best shot. So, for those of you who asked, here were my choices. And if you read this space often enough, you may even recognize some of them from recent reviews.

Served during dinner
2009 J. Hofstätter Meczan Pinot Nero (Alto Adige, Italy)
2009 St. Michael-Eppan Pinot Grigio Anger Vineyard (Alto Adige, Italy)

On the bar
2010 L’Ecole No. 41 Sémillon (Walla Walla, Washington)
2009 Josef Leitz “Eins, Zwei, Dry” Riesling (Rheingau, Germany)
2009 Amalaya red blend (Salta, Argentina)
2008 Brancaia Tre (Tuscany, Italy)

Though my obsession with Alto Adige was well-served, it was unintended. My first choice for the dinner red was the August Kesseler Spätburgunder Pinot N (Rheinhessen, Germany), but unfortunately just days before the event, the distributor discovered that they did not have it in stock. In the end, it was a wonderful evening to which, I hope, the wine was a wonderful complement. And in an ideal world, some guests were introduced to a new wine or region that they will explore again.

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“Argentina: Celebrating Diversity” with Nora Favelukes at the Boston Wine Expo 2012

by katrin on January 22, 2012

Saving the best for last, the final seminar of Saturday’s Boston Wine Expo featured Nora Favelukes of Wines of Argentina presenting on “Argentina: Celebrating Diversity.” The full house was entertained, while also being educated on Argentina’s wine, food, culture, and geography.

A lot has changed in the Argentina wine industry in the past 20 to 30 years. In the 1980s and early 1990s, Nora said that she knew exactly where to look for the Argentine wines: way in the back of the store, on the bottom shelf, covered in dust. Nicolas Catena and the arrival of two international wine consultants, Paul Hobbs and Michel Rolland, changed all that.  Their work in modernizing grape growing and winemaking set the groundwork for making wines from Argentina an international sensation.

One of Argentina’s great strengths, which wine enthusiasts around the world are starting to recognize, is diversity; from Salta in the north to Patagonia in the south; altitudes ranging from 1,000 feet to 10,000 feet; incredible microclimates; and a wide range of varietals.  Clearly Argentines enjoy their wine; with one of the highest per capita wine consumption rates in the world, Argentina only exports 10-12% of its total production.  The rest is enjoyed at home!

We tasted five wines that gave a flavor of the geographic and varietal diversity of Argentina.  Nora had selected them based on their availability in the local market and their price to quality ratio.

2011 Michel Torino Estate – Don David Torrontés (Cafayate Valley, Salta)
Beautiful nose of peach pit and white flowers. Very mouthfilling with high acidity, spice, and a long, clean finish.
$16.99

2011 Graffigna Pinot Grigio (Tulúm Valley, San Juan)
Very pale to nearly clear in the glass, the Pinot Grigio was so subtle in comparison to the Torrontés. Ripe with medium acidity.
$13.99

2010 Dante Robino Bonarda (Santa Rosa, Mendoza)
Great smoky nose with a meaty palate.  Bonarda like this is a perfect accompaniment to burgers and pizza. I agree with Nora that this is a rustic, but rich example of this varietal.
$12.99

2009 Del Desierto 25/5 Cabernet Franc  (La Pampa, Patagonia)
Incredibly unusual nose.  Lots of dust and cocoa powder. The palate is intense showing more chocolate notes, spice, and minerality. Medium plus acidity and tannins give this Cabernet Franc great structure.
$14.99

2007 Rutini Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon (Tupungato, Mendoza)
Cassis and dark fruits on nose and palate. This is one intense and very tannic wine. Tight. Bring on the steak!
$16.99

Hopefully, Nora will do a presentation at next year’s Boston Wine Expo. With her passion for Argentine wines, fun presentation style, and infectious laugh, you won’t want to miss it.

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Dinner with David Mirassou: Exploring the Wines of America’s Oldest Winemaking Family

by katrin on November 11, 2011

David Mirassou at The Brahmin

On October 17, I had the pleasure of joining a select group of Boston writers and bloggers for dinner with the wonderfully knowledgeable and charming David Mirassou at The Brahmin. The Mirassou name is certainly instantly recognizable as being one of the most popular California wine brands, not to mention the oldest. Mirassou Winery was founded in 1854 and six generations of Mirassous since have made wine. During that time, the winery was responsible for many innovations in grape-growing and winemaking, including the invention of the mechanical harvester, the introduction of Black Burgundy vines (better known today as Pinot Noir) to California, and the development of permanent vineyard irrigation.

The private dining area of The Brahmin was a very intimate – not to mention dark – setting. So dark, in fact, that it took me several minutes to see two of WDWU’s favorite Boston bloggers sitting across from me: Rachel Blumenthal of Fork It Over, Boston! and Boston Food Bloggers and Lindsey of Beantown Eats. We were all in for a treat, since The Brahmin’s Chef Jason Santangelo had carefully prepared a six course tasting menu to accompany the Mirassou wines.

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Beyond Malbec: Bonarda, Argentina’s Other Red Grape

by katrin on June 29, 2011

Part of the Bonarda Line-Up

Bonarda is the second most popular red grape in Argentina – after Malbec, of course. Nearly 19% of red grape vineyards are planted with Bonarda. The origins of this varietal were under dispute until 2008. Was Bonarda brought to Argentina from Italy’s Piemonte region, where it is known as Bonarda Piemontese? Or was it related to the French Charbonneau (or Corbeau) grape? Or can its roots be traced to Croatia? Laura Catena clarifies the matter in Vino Argentino, “Bonarda is none other than the rare Corbeau or Charbonneau of Savoie, a French departement adjacent to the Italian Alps.”

No matter the origin, to me, Bonarda is a simple, enjoyable, pizza-loving wine.  A wine that’s a good value and in vast supply, but not necessarily complex. Sandy Block’s Argentine wine tasting this winter seriously challenged that notion with a concentrated, oaked Bonarda from Nieto Senetiner. It was unlike any Bonarda I had had before. Still, the majority of the Bonardas we see on wine store shelves are perfectly suited for “open on a Tuesday night” to be enjoyed with casual food. There’s nothing wrong with that, it’s just that we don’t see much evidence that Bonarda can match Malbec’s flexibility and ability to produce wines in a range of styles.

For this line-up of six Bonardas (actually seven, since there were two vintages from one producer), I chose a range of value- to mid-priced bottles. The results were mixed, with two wines on opposite ends of the price range emerging as stand-outs. I found that some of them – namely the first three – actually tasted a bit better when they were slightly cool.

2009 Altos Las Hormigas Colonia Las Liebres Bonarda (Mendoza)

I’m certain that if you have perused the Argentine section of a wine shop in the past few years that you would have seen this wine.  And it’s no surprise, since this is a good wine at a very good price. The Colonia Las Liebres is fresh, with a touch of minerality, cherry, and vinyl. It has nice medium acidity and tannins and finishes with spice and chocolate. A very good value.

At WineNation for $7.99.

2009 Bodegas San Huberto Bonarda (La Rioja)

The San Huberto comes from La Rioja, a province north of Argentina’s best-know winegrowing region Mendoza.  I found this wine to be a bit lackluster. Plum and spice in the nose and on the palate, but it also had a slightly high pitched character. Made completely in stainless steel without any oak, it was quite streamlined.

At The Urban Grape for $13.00.

2007 Ichanka (La Rioja)

Another Bonarda from La Rioja. The Ichanka was an interesting contrast to the San Huberto. The nose was meaty, with lots of plum. This wine spent six months in French and American oak which imparted sweet oak and smoke flavor. The wine’s heat from alcohol was offset by a cool, lead pencil shaving character. A chewy, dense mouthfeel, with medium plus acidity and tannins, and a medium length finish.

At The Urban Grape for $15.00.

2007 and 2008 La Posta Vineyards Estella Armando Vineyard (Mendoza)

La Posta has been a reliable producer of mid-priced wines. Unfortunately, the 2007 La Posta had a very bad case of bret. It would be overly generous to call this awfully stinky bottle “rustic.” To me, this bottle was undrinkable, and it went down the drain.

Luckily, I happened to have a bottle of the 2008 vintage, which was a dramatic improvement over the 2007. Darker than the other wines, the La Posta initially had a lot of fruit on the nose and palate. It was brambly, and had concentrated dark cherries and blackberries. There was oakiness, too, and notes of smoke and toast.  A few hours later, the fruit had largely dissipated, leaving a mocha-filled palate and bitterness. Medium body.

At Bacco’s Wine + Cheese for $17.99 (2008 vintage); At Martignetti’s in Brighton for $14.99 (2007 vintage).

2006 Trapiche Broquel (Mendoza)

As the oldest of the bunch, this 2006 Broquel is starting to show its age. On the nose blueberry jam and pencil shavings. The palate has cassis and a bit of high-pitched acetone. The medium-length finish has notes of chocolate and toast. Good, but probably better a year or two ago.

At Martignetti’s in Brighton for $18.99.

And, my favorite Bonarda from this tasting

2007 Alfredo Roca Dedicación Personal (San Rafael, Mendoza)

Dark garnet, saturated but starting to show a little age. It took about half an hour for the wine to open, but it was well worth the wait. Ripe fruit, primarily cherry and raspberry, with notes of vanilla oak. A lingering finish of spice (white pepper), chocolate, and a little smokiness. Ripe tannins, juicy acidity, and moderate alcohol are all very well-balanced. There’s still a freshness to this wine, and I found it very satisfying. My favorite of this tasting.  It was, however, at its best the first day it was open; after that, the fruit vanished and the texture was flat.

At Winestone for $20.00.

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The 2011 Rosé Roundtable Wrap-up

by katrin on May 26, 2011

For this year’s Rosé Roundtable, the Wine Dine With Us group sampled eight wines, spanning Europe and the US. We were delighted that there were so many excellent, interesting, and unusual wines in this group. Unlike previous years, there were no duds and no snoozers. And after having had too many bland pinks, it restored our faith in rosé.

So, just in time for the warm weather that has finally arrived and the long weekend ahead, here are the highlights of our tasting. And if you’ve had a great rosé recently, be sure to leave us a comment here or on our Facebook page!

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Think Pink – The Rose Society

10 May 2011

 
 
On Sunday May 15th, The Rosé Society, a.k.a. Wine Dine With Us, will hold its annual Rosé Roundtable. Before Wine Dine With Us was a blog, we were a tasting group. When we met seven years ago at wine school, our mentor, Bill Nesto MW, encouraged us to form a tasting group to further our [...]

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Brix at Night – An Evening with Terry Theise

22 April 2011

 
I first came to appreciate Reisling when I began my wine studies at Boston University. For me, it became the most noble of the white grapes. I furthered my appreciation when I met Derek Whitman, wine rep extraordinaire, at the now defunct and much lamented Bueno Queso Social Club. Derek, in charge of beverages for our meetings, preached the gospel [...]

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Beyond Malbec: Argentina’s Big Red Blends Roundtable

22 March 2011

On a cool, sunny Sunday afternoon, Glenn and I tasted six big, bold Argentine blends. I had been gathering these wines since fall in preparation for a Roundtable tasting. And now with spring, Easter dinner, and grilling season on our doorstep, it was time to finally taste them.
While I am, of course, a fan of [...]

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