by katrin on September 13, 2011
Over the past year or so I have had a fascination with Saint-Bris, the only appellation in Burgundy allowed to produce Sauvignon Blanc and use Chablis on the label. Wines from Saint-Bris tend to have a strong minerality and a core of pure fruit. The Domaine Hervé Azo fits the bill. Despite having been purchased in 2004by Jean-Marc Brocard, the renowned Chablis winemaker, Domaine Hervé Azo continues bear the founder’s label.
The nose has aromas of fresh citrus – primarily lime and grapefruit – and a chalky minerality. As with other wines from Saint-Bris, the Domaine Hervé Azo is restrained and delicate. The lime continues on the palate and there is a light herbal quality. The acidity is bright and lasting, but not overpowering. This is a really clean, straight-forward wine.
At The Vin Bin for $15.99.
by katrin on September 7, 2011
Chateau Guiraud is better known for producing Sauternes, the highly-prized, Botrytis-blessed sweet wine. While Le G is anything but sweet, this blend of 80% Sauvignon Blanc and 20% Sémillon is a fantastic example of a dry, white Bordeaux that is perfectly suited for a range of foods. The nose is bright and brings to mind one of Sauvignon Blanc’s classic descriptors – gooseberry – as well as a bouquet of herbs. The color green comes to mind, not because it is unripe, but because herbs and gooseberries elucidate an image of bright green. The palate is full of grapefruit and herbs, with some faint honey notes. Though I had braced myself for an intensely acidic mouthfeel, Le G has only medium acidity – the acidity off-set, no doubt, by the addition of Sémillon, a bit of age, and the fact that the wine was aged for six months on its lees. Le G finishes with some bitterness and a lasting white grapefruit and herb impression.
At Wine Library for $15.98.
by katrin on August 2, 2011
The Wine of the Week is not only a very good wine, but also a fantastic value. The Southern Right Sauvignon Blanc has the restrained elegance of a Sancerre with the weight of a full-bodied California Sauvignon Blanc. The nose has the freshness of lime and Granny Smith apple, while the palate has white grapefruit, minerality, and a slight dried herb character. Though it is very mouthwatering, it has some tannins that dry the inside of the mouth and gums. Long finish with intense acidity.
At WineNation for $11.49.
by glenn on July 26, 2011
"La P'tit Loire" - a fine accompaniment to Brie
Now, “The Summer of Riesling” is a fine idea – acquaint wine drinkers with the wonderful world of Riesling, the most underrated of the white noble grapes. And the wines of Argentina, which we love and promote at Wine Dine With Us, offer a great confluence of quality and price. Having said all that, though, make mine France. I’ve continued my search for value-priced white French wines for summer quaffing – I’ve moved off from my Rosé pedestal – and discovered this very good Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire Valley produced by La Cave des Vins de Sancerre, a cooperative of one hundred growers. Some wineaux may look askance at cooperative wines but don’t dismiss them – they can offer good value and are generally well-made. The major grapes in Sancerre are Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir. The coop produces wines from both in addition to a Rosé. In the nose, I find the wine reminiscent of sitting on my patio – floral and herbaceous aromas from the garden along with the flowering ailanthus in the woodlot next door. In addition, a hint of white stone fruit and perhaps apricot. And add to all that a melange of citrus – lemon, lime, bitter orange and, of course, grapefruit. On the palate, the citrus continues. A very smooth, round mouthfeel. The wine finishes with strong acidity and a bit of bitterness. Though the wine does make a great aperitif, I paired it with a somewhat simple supper – grilled chicken breast and a tomato-cucumber salad. The challenge of the match-up – besides the tomatoes – was the dressing for the salad which I also used as an accompaniment to the chicken – dill, lemon, garlic, olive oil, Greek yogurt and mayonnaise. All went well – the wine complimenting the chicken and salad and holding its own against the tomatoes and mayo.
available at Whole Foods 340 River St. Camb. MA – $11.99
Since Whole Foods River St. is having a Summer Madness wine sale - 20% off 6 or more bottles – I actually paid $9.59.
by katrin on July 21, 2011
Think quick! If I say Sauvignon Blanc and South America, what comes to mind immediately? I would bet it’s probably not Argentina, though it is fairly easy to find in US stores. As a varietal, Sauvignon Blanc is associated with Chile more often than with Argentina. After all, Sauvignon Blanc is the most planted white grape in Chile, with more than 12,000 hectares, whereas it ranks fourth or fifth among Argentina’s white grapes, with less than 900 hectares.
Argentine Sauvignon Blanc is different from those produced in Chile and starkly different from New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. The three that I tasted for this post do not have characteristic green notes of grass and gooseberries, nor is there any of that infamous cat pee to be found. Each of these – and granted it is not a thorough sampling of the many on the market – have smokiness, melon, and citrus on the nose and/or palate. Admittedly, I don’t drink Argentine Sauvignon Blanc often, as I’m more likely to buy a bottle of Torrontés or even Chardonnay if I want an Argentine white or a Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire or California’s Quivira if I am looking for Sauvignon Blanc. But after recently having been very impressed by the Alfredo Roca Dedicación Personal Bonarda, I picked up a bottle of the winery’s Sauvignon Blanc from the same line. This inspired me buy a couple of other producers for comparison.
2009 Mapema (Mendoza)
In the glass, the Mapema is pale yellow with a hint of green. The nose is quite herbaceous with loads of peach pit and notes of flint and smoke. Honeydew melon, dried herbs, and lemongrass dominated the palate. It has medium plus body and a very tactile mouthfeel, with lasting acidity, some heat and spiciness, and bitterness. Ninety percent of the grapes are vinified in stainless steel and 10% in new French oak for three months, which gives the wine some softness and a rounded feeling, as well as a very light vanilla flavor. I grew to like this wine, though my initial impression was so-so.
At Martignetti’s for $12.99.
2010 Bodega Norton (Mendoza)
Light lemon yellow. The nose is smoky, with ripe melon and pear. The palate is more typically Sauvignon Blanc with pink grapefruit and dried herbs. Whereas the Mapema had an added dimension from the oak, 100% of the Bodega Norton Sauvignon Blanc is made in stainless steel. It is all fruit, crisp, and racy. Medium acidity and medium finish. Pretty good, especially given the price.
At Bacco’s Wine + Cheese for $9.99.
2010 Alfredo Roca Dedicacíon Personal (San Rafael, Mendoza)
The Alfredo Roca is different from the Mapema and the Norton and unlike any Sauvignon Blanc that I can recall having. Fruit tea, quince paste, honey, and Meyer lemon on the nose. The palate is savory and almost salty in the way Vermentino is. Acidity up front, followed by light tannins, and finishing with a lasting acidity. I would have expected a young wine like this to have more fruit in the finish, but the fruit dissipates before the acidity does.
At Colonial Spirits for $17.99.
by katrin on September 9, 2010
The wine is too obscure to be made with anything other than artisan passion, but it lacks the breed and concentration of great Loire Sauvignon made in Sancerre… and is more of a curiosity (being technically Burgundian but made from a decidedly non-Burgundian grape) than anything else. – Jancis Robinson, The Oxford Companion to Wine, Second Edition
I recently became interested in Saint-Bris, an appellation in Burgundy that has the distinction of being the only place in Burgundy allowed to make wine from 100% Sauvignon Blanc. While Jancis’s entry in the Oxford Companion may hit the mark about its relative obscurity, it unfortunately leaves us guessing about the quality, not to mention value, of Saint-Bris wines. Saint-Bris is not found on all store shelves, and though I had wanted to compare three to four, my search of Boston wine stores yielded only two. The Domaine Goisot is officially from the Saint-Bris AOC; the Simonnet-Febvre is a Vin de Pays de L’yonne.
These two wines rank among the most restrained and understated wines I can remember having. You would almost guess that they are not Sauvignon Blanc. To quote Jancis again, there is no “cat pee on a gooseberry branch” here. They share a flinty minerality that brings to mind the land and that infamous French terroir. The nose of the Goisot has lots of lemon, where as the Simonnet-Febvre is more lemon-lime and grass (and after being open for more than a day, some nuttiness). The Goisot has refreshing acidity balanced by a round ripeness, making it very enjoyable and the favorite of this comparison. By contrast, the Simonnet-Febvre is intensely tart and juicy. Both are really lovely and are great on their own or with food. And at about half the price of a typical Sancerre, this little appellation is worth checking out.
2008 Domaine Goisot Sauvignon de St. Bris Moury is available at Gordon’s Fine Wines for $15.19.
2007 Simonnet-Febvre Sauvignon Blanc Vin de Pays de L’yonne is available at Brix Wine Shop for $13.99.
by katrin on August 22, 2010
90+ Cellars has been mentioned on Wine Dine With Us at least a couple of times in recent months. It is a concept that intrigues Glenn, Rodney, and me on different levels. To me, it’s a win-win for both the winery and the consumer. The winery sells its excess inventory of quality wines at lower, no-name prices without sacrificing reputation or the wine’s price point in the future. The consumer has an opportunity to purchase a high-quality wine at a lower price. And who doesn’t like that in these recessionary times?
However, the wines do require some explanation. Having purchased 90+ Cellars wines for events that I organize for my nonprofit organization, I have seen a number of people approach the wines with a quizzical look that asks “Have budget constraints forced Katrin to serve us some anonymous plonk akin to box wine?” Certainly after trying a great wine like the Malbec Lot 3, that thought is dispelled.
This week I tried the 2008 Sauvignon Blanc, Lot 2, despite Rodney’s earlier lackluster review. I found it well beyond “adequate.” It is unmistakably New Zealand and totally unapologetic for being obvious. It is exactly what we all have come to expect from New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc… and that’s ok! Grapefruit, lime, gooseberry, and herbs filled my nose immediately. My mouth was watering expectantly before even tasting the wine. The palate was all that citrus plus melon, with high acidity and a touch of bitterness. It is wonderfully refreshing and flavorful and worth a try!
