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Rosé

Wine Review: 2009 Clos Cibonne Tibouren Rosé Côtes de Provence

by katrin on September 25, 2011

“It’s kind of like crack,” remarked Kerri Platt, owner of the North End’s The Wine Bottega, when she saw me examining the Clos Cibonne Tibouren rosé. I wasn’t sure whether to run like hell or to buy it and immediately open it. I opted for the latter. After all, I couldn’t resist this unusual rosé produced from the Tibouren grape (how often do you hear of that?) and aged on its lees in 100 year old foudres for a year. During that year, a fleurette, or film of yeast, develops on top of the wine, similar to what happens to a vin jaune from Jura or with the flor on a fino Sherry.

The first thing you notice with this wine is the unique color, which is a lovely rusty pink. I’m afraid my photo does not do it justice. Since it is a rosé, I chilled it and served it cold, like a regular pink. But served too cold, the Clos Cibonne is closed and tight and does not reveal much of its character. I found it best served between refrigerator and room temperatures, which allows the nose, and particularly the palate, to open. The Clos Cibonne is not at all fruity, but rather entices with the results of its unusual vinification and ageing. It is nutty and slightly earthy. On the palate, there is a lovely softness that is slowly replaced by a crescendo of acidity.

While it’s not quite crack, this is an intriguing wine well worth seeking out.

At The Wine Bottega for $27.00.

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“One Last Fleeting Taste of Summer” – Libations for Your Labor Day Celebration

by Eleni-Glenn-Katrin on August 31, 2011

Looking for beverage suggestions for the upcoming holiday weekend? Here are our recommendations to make your celebration more enjoyable -

Glenn recommends-

As this was the “Summer of Riesling”, I’ve included my current go-to Riesling, the “Girl” having supplanted the lovely “Eroica” which has become too dear for everyday imbibing. Herewith, the 2010 Kung Fu Girl Riesling from Charles Smith, wild child rock’n'roller and star winemaker.  His current enterprise, Charles Smith Wines : The Modernist Project, produces wine for ” the modern wine drinker” by which he means the wines are readily accessible and as such don’t need to be cellared.  This Reisling comes from a single source – The Evergreen Vineyard – in the Columbia Valley AVA. In the nose, lime, acacia, sweet herbs and white peaches; on the palate, fruit juicy, smooth, opening up to a vibrant acidity; a solid mouth-watering finish. And did I mention the dose of minerality? FYI – this is a dry Riesling for those seeking to avoid any sweetness. Available at Whole Foods 340 River St. Camb. MA $12.99.

And since grilling may be the preferred mode of cooking this weekend, I offer this Plonk Pick – the 2010 Labouré-Roi  Pinot Noir. From the south of France, this wine, while it might not showcase Pinot Noir typicity, has much ripe fruit – of the red and black sorts - with a dose of earthiness balanced by decent acidity and some tannins. A great value for the price and a good addition to your holiday beverage menu. Available at Whole Foods 340 River St. Camb. MA $6.99 on sale.

Though some may think that Gin and Tonic is perfect as is, the Tonica al Fresco, a cocktail devised by Dale DeGroff, author of “The Craft of the Cocktail” takes this standard on a holiday spin.  Cynar, an Italian digestif derived from artichoke leaves (!) and orange bitters are added to a G and T  – 3 parts gin – preferably Tanqueray 10 –  to 1 part Cynar in an ice-filled highball glass;  followed by 2 dashes of orange bitters (I use Fee Bros. West Indian Orange Bitters); then topped with tonic water;  finished with a squeeze of a lime wedge. The Cynar and bitters add a depth to the drink that isn’t usually present in a G and T.

Katrin recommends -

My current recommendation is the 2010 Domaine Richou L’R d’Anjou

This is a fantastic wine for that transition time between summer and fall.  I’m not at all ready to give up rosés yet, but want something a bit heartier than some of the delicate sippers I’ve enjoyed all summer.  The Domaine Richou L’R d’Anjou fits the bill perfectly.  Just from the fairly deep magenta tone, you can tell that this blend of 80% Cabernet Franc and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon is not going to be a dainty wine.

Cranberry and raspberry with a strong presence of dried herbs that borders on tobacco leaf, particularly on the palate. Full-bodied, the mouthfeel has great medium plus acidity with just a hint of residual sugar and more tannins than you get in most rosés. Long tight finish that has a lovely stoniness.

At Central Bottle for $17.

In addition, two wines I very much enjoyed this summer -

As a big fan of Torrontés, Argentina’s signature white varietal, I have relished the interest that this wine has been receiving of late. It has been great to see the number of wines coming from producers stretching from Salta down to Mendoza expanding on store shelves. There aren’t many blends among them, but the Trivento Amado Sur is an interesting one that combines Torrontés (75%) and Viognier (15%), two very aromatic, floral varietals, with the more malleable Chardonnay (10%).

As I poured the light golden yellow wine into the glass, the aromas lifted out. It was, of course, very floral with rose petal, peach, and orange. On the palate the citrus combined with spiciness. With medium plus acidity and medium body, the floral notes and spiciness are carried through the long finish. As I often do, I tasted the Amado Sur again on the day after I opened it and founded it even more enjoyable. I initially thought that the Chardonnay was just filler to help tone down the characteristics of the Torrontés and Viognier, but what I found on the second day was that those green apple flavors I associate with Chardonnay really emerged and added another dimension to this interesting summer wine.

At Colonial Spirits of Acton for $14.99.

Wines of Germany has declared July as the month of “31 days of German Riesling,” and really what could be better in the middle of summer than this lovely and aromatic wine. German Rieslings tend to be low in alcohol, but full of flavor, so you can enjoy an extra glass without having to pay for it in the morning. At 11.5% abv, this Riesling had the highest alcohol level compared to the others in the store.

The Schloss Vollrads comes in an extra fancy fluted bottle secured with a Vino-Seal, which is a glass stopper. This is a beautifully aromatic wine. The nose and palate are filled with peaches, lemon, and lime rind, along with stony minerality and a nice touch of petrol. Just a bit off-dry, but with juicy acidity the Schloss Vollrads is ripe and full. There is a hint of bitterness in the long finish. A perfect wine for a warm summer evening!

At Julio’s Liquors for $15.99.

Eleni recommends-

In Greece, it’s a “green” or a “brown”.  In Egypt, a “Stella” is the leading brand (not Stella Artois).  And in Germany, I just love ordering beer for a crowd and just adding on the factor: “dreimal bier, bitte.”

What better drink to savor the long weekend and to accompany various outdoor parties than a beer.  And instead of bringing the oldies but goodies in the green and brown bottles, why not try a large bottle you can consider sharing (or not), and spark some party conversation.

A Chimay Bleu is a classic and if you can’t find it or don’t want to pay that much for a beer, try another color label Chimay.  They are all delicious.

Heading to Canada for the long weekend?  The Chambly Noire (Black Hat), made in Chambly, Quebec by Unibroue, it is a dark brown “black ale” with notes of wood, coffee, and fruit.  In the mouth, ripe fruit, vanilla, cloves, and chocolate.  A solid choice.  6.2% alcohol.  $6.95 for a 25.4 oz bottle.

Love Chimay or Duvel but want to branch out?  La Divine, made in France, is “delicate” in color and in smell: flowery, fruity, and woody in the nose.  The sweet taste of apples, pears, caramel and spice complement the bitter finish.  A solid offering but it won’t knock your guests’/hosts’ socks off. 8% alcohol. Retail: $9.95 for a 750 ml bottle.

All three selections are conversation worthy.  For a bit more information: http://winedinewith.us/2011/07/14/bastille-day-at-the-bastide/

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R is for (Remarkable) Rosé – Wine Review of Domaine Serene Rosé NV

by katrin on June 26, 2011

The understated simplicity and beauty of the clear, taller than average bottle, with its cream-colored label, grabbed my attention. The raspberry-gelato colored wine shines through the “r” cut out of the label, and that is all it needs to say.

Strawberry compote, herbs, hints of crushed blueberry, and raspberry. Despite all of the fruit descriptors, there is nothing tootie fruity about this wine. It is full-bodied and rounded, with zippy acidity and tender tannins. Great, rich finish. For all that this lovely rosé has, it is what is absent that makes it even more intriguing. There’s no vintage noted and Domaine Serene’s winemaker M. Eleni Papadakis doesn’t divulge the actual varietal composition. What we do know is that the grapes are sourced from vineyards in three different Oregonian appellations – 50% from the Willamette Valley, 40% from the Rogue Valley, and 10% from Walla Walla. Some of the tannins are imparted from the use of oak; 55% of the wine is aged in French barrels, 10% of which are new.

At New Hampshire State Liquor for $29.99.

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Plonk Pick – Lieu Dit “Cocagne” Rosé 2010

by glenn on June 22, 2011

The captivating "Cocagne"

 

Does this wine have a cult following? Should it have a Facebook page? Whatever those answers may be, I continue  my current preoccupation with pink with this captivating wine. As I mentioned in a previous post, this wine was on the “Carte du Vin” for our evening at the Herb Lyceum. It deserves a closer look. From the Loire Valley, produced by a cooperative and made with the somewhat obscure local varietal Pineau d’Aunis, the Lieu-dit “Cocagne” is a great value priced rosé. In the glass, the wine is pleasing to behold – shimmering copper with coral highlights. In the nose, pink grapefruit, raspberries, a whiff of acacia, grass and mint. On the palate, the fruit holds forth and leads to a mouth tingling and mouth watering acidity. The mouthfeel is round and full with a mineral softness. (My demented thought was that it was like Sauvignon Blanc but without the cat pee.) I paired the wine with an orzo and shrimp salad. The ingredients would challenge any rosé – in addition to the orzo and shrimp, grape tomatoes, roasted red pepper, pickled red onion, kalamata olives, feta and marjoram. I dressed the salad with a vinaigrette of lemon juice, champagne vinegar, roasted garlic, dijon and olive oil. Successful match-up! The wine paired well with the strong and acidic ingredients resulting in a very pleasant summer supper. If you’d like to join this wine’s cult following, you may purchase it where I found it  –  Central Bottle and Provisions

Cave du Vendomois Lieu Dit “Cocagne” Rosé 2010 Coteaux du Vendomois $11 

Central Bottle and Provisions  196 Mass. Ave.  Camb.MA 

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Plonk Pick – Charles & Charles Rose 2010

by glenn on June 2, 2011

 

Rose for the Rowdy

The menu – a braise of chicken in a piperade-based sauce – bacon, onion, garlic, peppers and tomatoes – and farro cooked risotto-style. Ingredients assembled, now for the wine.  As I was entering the wine department, I came upon a large floor display for  Charles & Charles Rosé 2010 Columbia Valley WA. The text on the cases of wine which composed the display informed me that I could drink rosé “and still be a bad ass”. Well, I knew that – I don’t find pink wines emasculating or feminizing unlike skinny jeans on men which should be avoided at all costs. As a fan -remember, he is a rock star winemaker – of the second Charles on the label, i.e. Charles Smith, I put a bottle in my cart and proceeded to the check-out. I was not disappointed with my purchase.

The wine is 100% Syrah – the back label cites the grower and the vineyard from which the grapes were sourced - Art Denhoed at Talcott Vineyards. The wine is made by a collaboration between Charles Bieler, Three Thieves, Bieler Pere et Fils, Sombra Mezcal, and Charles Smith, K Vinters, Charles Smith Wines. 

A label with provenance

Artful Label

In the nose, fruitful and floral – cherries, strawberries and rose petals, sweet and savory herbs; on the palate, a burst of fruit and minerality, smooth mouthfeel; a spicy and acidic finish. A phrase from my notes – “big nose, big fruit”.

I was taken with the label of this wine – an appropriation of the flag reminiscent of Jasper Johns with a Warholian vibe. The back label also includes  pertinent social media info – websites and twitter handles.

As for the pairing, the wine held up well to the various elements of the braise, though I would also recommend this wine for grilled salmon, grilled chicken or grilled pork.

Charles & Charles Rosé 2010 Columbia Valley WA

$9.99 on sale Whole Foods River Street Camb. MA

 

 

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The 2011 Rosé Roundtable Wrap-up

by katrin on May 26, 2011

For this year’s Rosé Roundtable, the Wine Dine With Us group sampled eight wines, spanning Europe and the US. We were delighted that there were so many excellent, interesting, and unusual wines in this group. Unlike previous years, there were no duds and no snoozers. And after having had too many bland pinks, it restored our faith in rosé.

So, just in time for the warm weather that has finally arrived and the long weekend ahead, here are the highlights of our tasting. And if you’ve had a great rosé recently, be sure to leave us a comment here or on our Facebook page!

[click to continue…]

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Think Pink – The Rose Society

by glenn on May 10, 2011

 

My Mystery Wines

My Mystery Wines

 

On Sunday May 15th, The Rosé Society, a.k.a. Wine Dine With Us, will hold its annual Rosé Roundtable. Before Wine Dine With Us was a blog, we were a tasting group. When we met seven years ago at wine school, our mentor, Bill Nesto MW, encouraged us to form a tasting group to further our wine tasting abilities. We did and embarked on a path that eventually led to this blog. We soon discovered we had a predilection for pink – not the singer, not the sportswear line – but the type of wine. At that point in time, stuffy sanctimonious wine snobs pooh-poohed pinks, but true connoisseurs embraced and promoted them. Today, rosé wines are accepted and acceptable, recommended for warm weather sipping and dining.  Over time, Wine Dine With Us has had yearly tasting events – roundtables – to sample the current vintage rosés. Our 2011 event is just days away – and we’re eagerly anticipating another round of pinks. We’ll each bring a bottle or two to share. I already have mine. And since I have a trickster streak, I may have my colleagues taste them blind since the wines are a bit unusual and it will be challenging to identify their country of origin. I’m now working on the menu – something French, something Italian and of course a well-chosen cheese or two and charcuterie.

Stay tuned for a post about the Rosé Society’s Rosé Roundtable and our tasting notes.

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Wine Review: 2009 Alois Lageder Lagrein Rosé

6 May 2011

I usually abide by the conventional wisdom that almost all rosés should be drunk within a year after their release? So, why am I drinking a 2009 rosé? I blame it on being so eager for spring and the arrival of the 2010 vintage that I simply was not thinking about the date when I [...]

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He Said, She Said: Loire Valley Wines 2011 Boston Trade Tasting

15 April 2011

KATRIN – I was so looking forward to the Loire Valley Wines tasting on April 4 – we are huge fans of wines from the Loire and had a really great time at the tasting at the W Hotel last year. But it was also the location, as neither of us had been to Fenway [...]

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Wine Review: 2009 Château La Moutète Grande Réserve

14 September 2010

With the chill in the air already making me long for summer, I opened what could very well be my last rosé of 2010. We end on a classically French note, with a rosé from the Côtes de Provence appellation – the 2009 Château La Moutète Grande Réserve.  A blend of Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah, and [...]

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