by katrin on May 13, 2012
Tony Soter, who has worked his winemaking magic at Napa’s Etude Wines, Willamette Valley’s Soter Vineyards, and dozens of prestigious wineries over the years, has made a rosé to savor. A couple of years ago, he launched the Soter Vineyards’ second label: North Valley. The North Valley rosé is simply one of the best rosés I have had in recent memory, perfect for anyone seeking a less delicate rosé. This fresh and bright pink wine has a somewhat surprising composition: 80% Pinot Noir, 16% Chardonnay, and 4% Gewürztraminer. The two white grapes were terrific blending partners, giving this rosé a memorable and unique palate. Some rosés of Pinot Noir can be rather light and the Chardonnay helps to make this wine slightly more full-bodied and rounded. Despite being only 4% of the blend, the Gewürztraminer lends its unmistakable aromatics of lychee fruit and rose. Wonderfully mouthwatering with a long, zippy finish. Very good/excellent.
At Martignetti’s for $22.99.
2011 Laurent Miquel Père et Fils Cinsault Syrah Pays d'Oc
For the Rosé Society, this is the time of year to which we look forward. The rosés from the previous vintage are now being released, making their way to our local wine shops’ shelves. For the most part – and there are exceptions – rosés should be drunk within a year following their release. In a way similar to Beaujolais Nouveau but so much better – and classier – rosés are meant to be drunk young.
One of the highlights of L’Adventure Languedoc which we attended at the Boston Conference Center in early April was the abundance of just released rosés. When I realized that the “Père et Fils” was from Languedoc and produced by the young winemaker Laurent Miquel, into my cart it went. Incidentally, the labelling on the bottle would have been inconceiveable in France five years ago: the varietals, Cinsault and Syrah, are boldly proclaimed. In order to compete in the world wine market and, in accordance with European Union classification initiatives, the French system was overhauled; varietals and location where the grapes were grown can now be displayed on wine labels.
The wine is wonderfully fresh with a very definite zip. The aroma is one of ripe red berries. The juicy fruit carries through onto the palate. There is a pleasant softness to the mouthfeel followed by a good dose of acidity. The fruit follows through to the end – and with the acidity – makes for a lovely finish. The result is fruit forward and refreshing, suitable for both quaffing and pairing with food.
A good choice for Mothers’ Day – the low alcohol level of 12.5% ensures that the old lady – I mean your mother – won’t get too unruly.
$9.99 on sale at
Whole Foods Market 340 River St. Camb. MA
"Think Pink!"
The rosé season has begun. Katrin with her review of the 2010 Meinklang Prosa inaugurated our pink season. (And if you find this style of lightly effervescent rosé enjoyable, seek out the one one made by Michlits, another biodynamic Austrian producer.) This is a time of year that we of the Rosé Society anticipate. The Rosé Society – the name bestowed on us by Eleni – is one of several alter egos present at WineDineWith.Us. When we were young wineaux just forming the tasting group that would become this blog, one of our interests was “pinks”. At that time rosés were somewhat controversial – the avant garde of the wine world was promoting them while the old guard was haughtily dismissing them. Times change – the avant garde won, the old guard dottered off - and rosés have become a mainstay of the wine scene.
My first rosé of the season is the 2011 Château de Campuget Tradition Rosé Costière de Nîmes. A blend of 30% Grenache Noir and 70% Syrah, the wine is rightly characterized as a “PLW”, i.e. “ pretty little wine”. And pretty it is. While the producer describes the hue as “peony pink”, there actually is a strong splash of salmon that makes the wine less gaudy than peony would imply. A bowl of mixed red berries, a sprig or two of wild herbs – a delicate nose. The mouthfeel is smooth, rounded, a bit weighty, contrasting nicely with the medium acidity that follows. The wine finishes with some astringency which further adds to the structure. The delicate fruit carries through to the finish. As befits a PLW, there is no complexity here only quaffability. As summer too slowly approaches, get a jump on the season and “Think Pink”.
Available at Bin Ends $9.60
by glenn and katrin on May 2, 2012
Languedoc – L’Aventure Languedoc
Languedoc , including Roussillon, is the largest wine producing region of not only France, but the world. However, only lately have sales of the region’s wines seen an uptick due to the increasingly favorable perception of the region. Though there have always been producers of quality wine here, the majority of wine was often poor plonk, much of it destined for the European wine lake. Now the situation is improving. Growers and winemakers, seeing the implications for them of the growing international wine trade, have started to turn the region around. Languedoc wines are both accessible and good value – key selling points for American wine buyers. To further promote the improved quality of Languedoc AOC wines, CIVL, the trade council representing these wines, is presenting for the first time L’Adventure Languedoc, a series of events for both consumers and the trade across the US. In Boston, the event was held at the Boston Conference Center, a wonderfully refurbished venue at the end of the Boston Fish Pier.
Since I’m a fan of the Piquepol grape, I was more than happy to have the opportunity to taste a variety of offerings from the appellation, Picpoul de Pinet, where the grape plays a starring role. The wines ranged from ultra racy to rich and full-bodied. My favorite of the lot was the 2010 Paul Mas Estates Picpoul de Pinet Grand Vin de Languedoc. In anticipation of summer, we zoomed in on rosés; my favorite the 2011 Château Sainte Eulalie Plaisir d’Eulalie Minervois. As for reds, I favored wines where Syrah was the dominant varietal. I thoroughly enjoyed the 2007 Pierre Gaillard Faugères Transhumance from the noted M. Gaillard, a vigneron based in the Northern Rhone but who now has a domaine in Languedoc. Also outstanding was the 2009 Hecht and Bannier Minervois. Katrin’s top five, in no particular order, were the 2009 Chateau Sainte Eulalie Minervois la Liviniére La Cantilene; the 2010 Paul Mas Estates Picpoul de Pinet Grand Vin de Languedoc; the 2007 Pierre Gaillard Faugères Transhumance; the 2011 Cave de Pomerols 100% Syrah – Sud de France Rosé; the 2011 Castelmaure Corbières Rosé.
Loire – Loire Valley Wines
The Loire Valley is no longer terra incognita to American wine buyers. Wines that have long been popular in France – Loire wines are the mainstay of the cartes de vin in French bistros – are now appreciated here and more easily found than ever. These wines represent a multitude of both white and red varietals and styles – racy or full-bodied whites, light or hearty reds, rosés both dry and off-dry and sparklers. Literally, in the Loire, there is something for every taste.
Like last year, the Loire Valley Wines trade show was held at the EMC Club at Fenway Park. Understandably, the venue competed with the wines, even more so since it was the day before the home opener. Yet, we were able to focus on the task at hand. First off, if ever we regretted not having an importer’s license, it was at this event. Most of the wines had no Massachusetts importers. And since we were merely press, our praise for the participants’ wines was faint indeed. We tasted racy Sauvignon Blancs with wonderful grapefruit zip; an obscure but delicious white varietal – Romorantin; both delicate Pinot Noirs and more robust iterations of this grape; spot-on renditions of Cabernet Franc; and sparkling Cremants de Loire that rivaled some Champagnes. We could taste but couldn’t buy out in the real world and consequently felt that we wouldn’t recommend wines unavailable in Massachusetts. Hopefully, some of these good quality wines found an importer and will be available in the future. At some point, we grabbed a glass of a particularly toothsome Cab Franc to savor and made our way to the outside seats to contemplate the Old Ballyard.
An interesting aspect of the show was the prominence – at least it seemed to us – of off-dry rosés. I initially felt this inclusion was misguided – Americans want dry wines. But do they? With the recent emergence of Muscat/Moscato, perhaps these rosés represent an emerging trend. And frankly, as one who doesn’t fear sugar, I found several quite captivating, perfect summer aperitifs.
Contemplating the Old Ballyard
by katrin on April 29, 2012
If ever a wine called to me from the shelf of a wine shop, it was this one. From the pink cow and butterflies on the label to the cork fastened down with loops of string to the enticing strawberry-salmon color that seems to shine in the clear bottle, I was destined to leave the store with the Meinklang. But only after the sales person assured me it was dry. After all, with an alcohol level of merely 10.5%, I wondered if this was going to be a sweet sipper. Low alcohol, pink, biodynamic, and the winemaker is a woman – could it get any better?
The nose and the palate are redolent of a basket of red, ripe summer fruits – strawberries, sour cherries, and raspberry. After the initial charge of intense, mouth-watering acidity, the wine’s light bubbles dance around in the mouth. There is just a hint of residual sugar, but with the acidity I was actually glad for it. Medium body and a long, red-berry finish. This wine became richer and more flavorful when it was between refrigerator and room temperature. Delicious.
At Brix on Broad for $19.99.
by katrin on February 12, 2012
With Valentine’s Day just around the corner, you might be thinking about which wine to share with your special someone. Perhaps something sparking comes to mind? Though French Champagne might be the obvious choice, the Reginato “Celestina” rosé from Mendoza is a perfectly romantic alternative.
As is quite typical of rosés made from the Malbec grape, the color of this wine is a stunning, deep pink that is almost red. The initial aromas of yeast and toast are intense. They are backed by ripe red berries and cherry notes, which continue on the palate. The mouthfeel is dry with a moderate acidity that gives it a nice crisp freshness. Made using méthode champenoise, I found the Reginato “Celestina” to be much more like true Champagne than any other Argentine sparkling wine that I have tried to date. And at less than half the cost, it is a perfectly budget-conscious bubbly with which to celebrate. Very good.
At Marty’s for $21.99.
by katrin on September 25, 2011
“It’s kind of like crack,” remarked Kerri Platt, owner of the North End’s The Wine Bottega, when she saw me examining the Clos Cibonne Tibouren rosé. I wasn’t sure whether to run like hell or to buy it and immediately open it. I opted for the latter. After all, I couldn’t resist this unusual rosé produced from the Tibouren grape (how often do you hear of that?) and aged on its lees in 100 year old foudres for a year. During that year, a fleurette, or film of yeast, develops on top of the wine, similar to what happens to a vin jaune from Jura or with the flor on a fino Sherry.
The first thing you notice with this wine is the unique color, which is a lovely rusty pink. I’m afraid my photo does not do it justice. Since it is a rosé, I chilled it and served it cold, like a regular pink. But served too cold, the Clos Cibonne is closed and tight and does not reveal much of its character. I found it best served between refrigerator and room temperatures, which allows the nose, and particularly the palate, to open. The Clos Cibonne is not at all fruity, but rather entices with the results of its unusual vinification and ageing. It is nutty and slightly earthy. On the palate, there is a lovely softness that is slowly replaced by a crescendo of acidity.
While it’s not quite crack, this is an intriguing wine well worth seeking out.
At The Wine Bottega for $27.00.
