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Riesling

Wine for 500 (or how to please everyone without resorting to the lowest common denominator)

by katrin on January 31, 2012

Saturday was a big night: a celebration with 500 of my organization’s nearest and dearest donors, volunteers, and friends. I had been mulling over the wine selection for weeks, tasting various options with colleagues and on my own, writing about the results, and even getting suggestions from you, our readers. In the end, the selection for the bar during the reception and for the dinner ended up being a sampling of some of my favorite wines of the past year or so that met two qualifications. First, they were within my price range of $16 or less after any discounts. And second, I thought that they would be well-received, in other words, interesting and delicious, but not overly challenging for people who thought they would be able to get a simple choice between a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc and an Australian Shiraz.

I won’t name names, but the owner of the retail establishment that provides wines to the event venue tried to offer advice and options that I would not have otherwise considered. I found all of the wines he recommended boring, mainstream, and mass-produced. Perhaps they would have been pleasing to a general audience, but I didn’t like any of them and the thought of bowing to the lowest common denominator goes against the thousands of great wines out there.

In the back of my mind, I know that it’s impossible to please everyone – though I did give it my best shot. So, for those of you who asked, here were my choices. And if you read this space often enough, you may even recognize some of them from recent reviews.

Served during dinner
2009 J. Hofstätter Meczan Pinot Nero (Alto Adige, Italy)
2009 St. Michael-Eppan Pinot Grigio Anger Vineyard (Alto Adige, Italy)

On the bar
2010 L’Ecole No. 41 Sémillon (Walla Walla, Washington)
2009 Josef Leitz “Eins, Zwei, Dry” Riesling (Rheingau, Germany)
2009 Amalaya red blend (Salta, Argentina)
2008 Brancaia Tre (Tuscany, Italy)

Though my obsession with Alto Adige was well-served, it was unintended. My first choice for the dinner red was the August Kesseler Spätburgunder Pinot N (Rheinhessen, Germany), but unfortunately just three days before the event, the distributor discovered that they did not have it in stock. The 2010 L’Ecole No. 41 Chenin Blanc, curiously enough, was out of stock, too (even though I had just purchased it a couple of weeks earlier) and we substituted it with the winery’s Sémillon. In the end, it was a wonderful evening to which, I hope, the wine was a wonderful complement. And in an ideal world, some guests were introduced to a new wine or region that they will explore again.

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Wine Review: 2009 Weingut Josef Leitz “Leitz Out” Riesling (Rheingau, Germany)

by katrin on December 18, 2011

Another clever wine name from winemaker Johannes Leitz of Weingut Josef Leitz.  His “Eins, Zwei, Dry” Riesling, which I reviewed earlier this year, was one of my favorite wines this year. Whereas the “Eins, Zwei, Dry” was dominated by apple and citrus, “Leitz Out” has lots of stone fruit – imagine ripe peaches and nectarines at the peak of summer. Add to that some lime, petrol, and slate and you have a terrific Riesling. Rich, ripe, and nearly full-bodied, the texture is a study of contrasts – soft lanolin and citrusy acidity.  The lime and petrol are central to the clean, lingering, and slightly bitter finish. Though I think this is a wonderful wine, especially for the price, I would have preferred it to be a bit drier. But then again, there’s “Eins, Zwei, Dry” for that.

At Marty’s Fine Wine for $11.99.

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Two Rieslings from Schloss Schönborn as the “Summer of Riesling” winds down

by katrin on September 21, 2011

2009 Schloss Schönborn Estate

2009 Schloss Schönborn Hattenheimer Pfaffenberg

As the Summer of Riesling winds down and fall is merely days away, I thought I would write about two more enchanting German Rieslings. I found these two selections from Schloss Schönborn side by side at the Whole Foods on River Street in Cambridge.  Both were from the 2009 vintage, both had dry on the label, both were 12.5% abv, and both were priced $18.99. Graphics aside, their big difference was the source of the grapes; the grapes that produced the Hattenheimer Pfaffenberg were from a single vineyard in Pfaffenberg, while the Estate bottle did not specify a source. I had only wanted to buy one bottle, but could not resist the opportunity to taste them at the same time and compare.

For all that these two Rieslings seemed to have in common on the surface, they were actually quite different in the glass. Both Rieslings are remarkably pale, with the Estate wine having a hint more gold and the Pfaffenberg a hint of green. The Estate Riesling was fresh and light on the nose with lots of green apple, lime, and minerality. The flavors were far riper than the nose indicated with peach, slate, and citrus. It was racy and the high acidity delivered a long finish. There was a sense of ripeness without being at all sweet, medium finish, and some bitterness.

Apricot and tropical fruit in the nose were the first signs that the Pfaffenberg was going to be richer and riper. The strong fruit continued on the palate, which had apricot, lime, and pink grapefruit pith. The biggest difference between the Pfaffenberg and the Estate wine was the mouthfeel. Starting with a bit of spritz, the mouthfeel on the Pfaffenberg was complex and evolved. The high acidity was softened and off-set by a bit of residual sugar, giving the Pfaffenberg a rich, voluptuousness with a lasting peach flavor and bitterness.

I enjoyed both of these Rieslings immensely and would have difficulty recommending one over the other. But luckily at this price, which is quite reasonable for this quality of German Riesling, I don’t have to choose.

At Whole Foods on River Street for $18.99 each.

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“One Last Fleeting Taste of Summer” – Libations for Your Labor Day Celebration

by Eleni-Glenn-Katrin on August 31, 2011

Looking for beverage suggestions for the upcoming holiday weekend? Here are our recommendations to make your celebration more enjoyable -

Glenn recommends-

As this was the “Summer of Riesling”, I’ve included my current go-to Riesling, the “Girl” having supplanted the lovely “Eroica” which has become too dear for everyday imbibing. Herewith, the 2010 Kung Fu Girl Riesling from Charles Smith, wild child rock’n'roller and star winemaker.  His current enterprise, Charles Smith Wines : The Modernist Project, produces wine for ” the modern wine drinker” by which he means the wines are readily accessible and as such don’t need to be cellared.  This Reisling comes from a single source – The Evergreen Vineyard – in the Columbia Valley AVA. In the nose, lime, acacia, sweet herbs and white peaches; on the palate, fruit juicy, smooth, opening up to a vibrant acidity; a solid mouth-watering finish. And did I mention the dose of minerality? FYI – this is a dry Riesling for those seeking to avoid any sweetness. Available at Whole Foods 340 River St. Camb. MA $12.99.

And since grilling may be the preferred mode of cooking this weekend, I offer this Plonk Pick – the 2010 Labouré-Roi  Pinot Noir. From the south of France, this wine, while it might not showcase Pinot Noir typicity, has much ripe fruit – of the red and black sorts - with a dose of earthiness balanced by decent acidity and some tannins. A great value for the price and a good addition to your holiday beverage menu. Available at Whole Foods 340 River St. Camb. MA $6.99 on sale.

Though some may think that Gin and Tonic is perfect as is, the Tonica al Fresco, a cocktail devised by Dale DeGroff, author of “The Craft of the Cocktail” takes this standard on a holiday spin.  Cynar, an Italian digestif derived from artichoke leaves (!) and orange bitters are added to a G and T  – 3 parts gin – preferably Tanqueray 10 –  to 1 part Cynar in an ice-filled highball glass;  followed by 2 dashes of orange bitters (I use Fee Bros. West Indian Orange Bitters); then topped with tonic water;  finished with a squeeze of a lime wedge. The Cynar and bitters add a depth to the drink that isn’t usually present in a G and T.

Katrin recommends -

My current recommendation is the 2010 Domaine Richou L’R d’Anjou

This is a fantastic wine for that transition time between summer and fall.  I’m not at all ready to give up rosés yet, but want something a bit heartier than some of the delicate sippers I’ve enjoyed all summer.  The Domaine Richou L’R d’Anjou fits the bill perfectly.  Just from the fairly deep magenta tone, you can tell that this blend of 80% Cabernet Franc and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon is not going to be a dainty wine.

Cranberry and raspberry with a strong presence of dried herbs that borders on tobacco leaf, particularly on the palate. Full-bodied, the mouthfeel has great medium plus acidity with just a hint of residual sugar and more tannins than you get in most rosés. Long tight finish that has a lovely stoniness.

At Central Bottle for $17.

In addition, two wines I very much enjoyed this summer -

As a big fan of Torrontés, Argentina’s signature white varietal, I have relished the interest that this wine has been receiving of late. It has been great to see the number of wines coming from producers stretching from Salta down to Mendoza expanding on store shelves. There aren’t many blends among them, but the Trivento Amado Sur is an interesting one that combines Torrontés (75%) and Viognier (15%), two very aromatic, floral varietals, with the more malleable Chardonnay (10%).

As I poured the light golden yellow wine into the glass, the aromas lifted out. It was, of course, very floral with rose petal, peach, and orange. On the palate the citrus combined with spiciness. With medium plus acidity and medium body, the floral notes and spiciness are carried through the long finish. As I often do, I tasted the Amado Sur again on the day after I opened it and founded it even more enjoyable. I initially thought that the Chardonnay was just filler to help tone down the characteristics of the Torrontés and Viognier, but what I found on the second day was that those green apple flavors I associate with Chardonnay really emerged and added another dimension to this interesting summer wine.

At Colonial Spirits of Acton for $14.99.

Wines of Germany has declared July as the month of “31 days of German Riesling,” and really what could be better in the middle of summer than this lovely and aromatic wine. German Rieslings tend to be low in alcohol, but full of flavor, so you can enjoy an extra glass without having to pay for it in the morning. At 11.5% abv, this Riesling had the highest alcohol level compared to the others in the store.

The Schloss Vollrads comes in an extra fancy fluted bottle secured with a Vino-Seal, which is a glass stopper. This is a beautifully aromatic wine. The nose and palate are filled with peaches, lemon, and lime rind, along with stony minerality and a nice touch of petrol. Just a bit off-dry, but with juicy acidity the Schloss Vollrads is ripe and full. There is a hint of bitterness in the long finish. A perfect wine for a warm summer evening!

At Julio’s Liquors for $15.99.

Eleni recommends-

In Greece, it’s a “green” or a “brown”.  In Egypt, a “Stella” is the leading brand (not Stella Artois).  And in Germany, I just love ordering beer for a crowd and just adding on the factor: “dreimal bier, bitte.”

What better drink to savor the long weekend and to accompany various outdoor parties than a beer.  And instead of bringing the oldies but goodies in the green and brown bottles, why not try a large bottle you can consider sharing (or not), and spark some party conversation.

A Chimay Bleu is a classic and if you can’t find it or don’t want to pay that much for a beer, try another color label Chimay.  They are all delicious.

Heading to Canada for the long weekend?  The Chambly Noire (Black Hat), made in Chambly, Quebec by Unibroue, it is a dark brown “black ale” with notes of wood, coffee, and fruit.  In the mouth, ripe fruit, vanilla, cloves, and chocolate.  A solid choice.  6.2% alcohol.  $6.95 for a 25.4 oz bottle.

Love Chimay or Duvel but want to branch out?  La Divine, made in France, is “delicate” in color and in smell: flowery, fruity, and woody in the nose.  The sweet taste of apples, pears, caramel and spice complement the bitter finish.  A solid offering but it won’t knock your guests’/hosts’ socks off. 8% alcohol. Retail: $9.95 for a 750 ml bottle.

All three selections are conversation worthy.  For a bit more information: http://winedinewith.us/2011/07/14/bastille-day-at-the-bastide/

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Celebrating the last day of “31 Days of Riesling” with 2009 Weingut Josef Leitz Eins Zwei Dry Riesling

by katrin on July 31, 2011

Johannes Leitz of Weingut Josef Leitz has been described as being part of the vanguard of new German winemakers, a small group that seems to understand what will make Riesling successful in the United States – that is to produce Rieslings in a dry style and to design the packaging and marketing so as to make them attractive and understandable. Leitz succeeds on both counts with his Eins Zwei Dry Riesling from Rheingau.

The Eins Zwei Dry is immediately beautifully aromatic with aromas of petrol, lime, peach, and a very strong, distinct stony edge.  On the palate, green apple, lemon zest, and more petrol. Ripe, but dry. Acidity is fairly high and provides the wine with a very good length. This is a Riesling that will appease those who doubt that German Riesling can be dry, delicious, refreshing, and affordable.

***

I want to love German Rieslings, but I have found that difficult to do. First, like many wine drinkers in the US I have an aversion to sweet wines. I enjoy off-dry wines when they are served after dinner and think that they can be a delicious substitute for dessert. But they generally don’t appeal to me as an aperitif or when paired with most meals.

Second, though I am slightly embarrassed to admit it, the labels are confusing. As a native German speaker (who, I should qualify, has spent many more years in the States than in Germany), I find it challenging to interpret the quality designations, the sweetness levels, and the vineyard names. Even in stores with more than a handful of bottles beyond Liebfraumilch, chances are very slim that the sales staff will be able to help you navigate the selection and make a choice that you will like.

That’s why I applaud the 31 Days of Riesling campaign and winemakers like Leitz for making a concerted effort to simplify and to educate. The campaign, which created a big buzz on Twitter and wine blogs and involved wine stores, restaurants, and wine bars, is a huge step toward developing the interest and understanding of the next generation of Riesling drinkers. Here in Greater Boston there were numerous opportunities to participate in tastings and Riesling dinners over the past month. I just wished that there were more than 31 days to take it all in!

At Lower Falls Wine Co. for $15.99.

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Wine of the Week: 2010 Urban Riesling Qualitätswein Mosel (A Nik. Weis Selection)

by katrin on July 20, 2011

Inspired by Wines of Germany’s “31 days of German Riesling,” this week’s selection is another lovely German Riesling. As I tasted the Urban Riesling, the image that came to mind was that of one of my favorite desserts – a baked golden delicious apple stuffed with yellow raisins. While the wine may be missing the cinnamon that I would expect in the apple’s filling it does zesty lemon, as well as a clean minerality. The Urban Riesling is off-dry with medium acidity and a rich, long finish. At only $12, this is a very pleasing wine that can easily be enjoyed on its own or with a variety of foods.

At Marty’s for $11.99.

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Wine of the Week: 2009 Schloss Vollrads Rheingau Riesling Qualitätswein

by katrin on July 13, 2011

Wines of Germany has declared July as the month of “31 days of German Riesling,” and really what could be better in the middle of summer than this lovely and aromatic wine. German Rieslings tend to be low in alcohol, but full of flavor, so you can enjoy an extra glass without having to pay for it in the morning. At 11.5% abv, this Riesling had the highest alcohol level compared to the others in the store.

The Schloss Vollrads comes in an extra fancy fluted bottle secured with a Vino-Seal, which is a glass stopper. This is a beautifully aromatic wine. The nose and palate are filled with peaches, lemon, and lime rind, along with stony minerality and a nice touch of petrol. Just a bit off-dry, but with juicy acidity the Schloss Vollrads is ripe and full. There is a hint of bitterness in the long finish. A perfect wine for a warm summer evening!

At Julio’s Liquors for $15.99.

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Brix at Night – An Evening with Terry Theise

22 April 2011

 
I first came to appreciate Reisling when I began my wine studies at Boston University. For me, it became the most noble of the white grapes. I furthered my appreciation when I met Derek Whitman, wine rep extraordinaire, at the now defunct and much lamented Bueno Queso Social Club. Derek, in charge of beverages for our meetings, preached the gospel [...]

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Riesling Round Two

1 September 2010

Given my disappointing German Riesling tasting, I forged ahead and tried four more. For this round, I increased my price range to up to $22 (not including any case discount) hoping to find the right wine. I headed to Federal Wine & Spirits, a store I often rely upon for interesting, quality wines, and newcomer [...]

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Riesling’s Risks and Rewards

26 August 2010

Planning events for the nonprofit at which I work can be a lot of fun – particularly when I have a chance to pick the wines! When we decided to do an Oktoberfest theme for an upcoming dinner, I was both delighted and daunted. I knew that finding a good quality Riesling at a price [...]

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