by katrin on February 1, 2012
On Saturday night we served a lovely Pinot Noir from J. Hofstätter to 500 guests (see my previous post). I thought it was elegant and representative of a light, flavorful style of Pinot Noir that seems only to come from Alto Adige. To my delight, others enjoyed it as much as I did and it received rave reviews. The next day, as I perused the wine aisles at Whole Foods, I was immediately drawn to another J. Hofstätter wine: the 2010 Pinot Grigio. My impression of this popular Italian varietal was equally positive.
The nose is forward and appealing with great pear, minerality, and melon aromas. Carambola (honestly this is the first time I can remember getting starfruit on the palate in a wine) and citrus added interesting dimensions to the pear and apple flavors. This Pinot Grigio is rich and satisfying without being oaky or cloying. In fact, it has a lanolin viscosity that is reminiscent of Sémillon. Medium acidity. The finish has lingering pear and acidity. Elegant and totally enjoyable. Very good.
At Whole Foods on River Street, Cambridge for $19.99.
by katrin on January 14, 2012
In the glass, the L’Ecole No. 41 is a pale yellow, with long, dense legs and viscosity giving an observable richness. The nose is wonderfully fruit forward. Aromas of quince and pineapple are rounded out by minerality and a hint of smoke. Peach pit, citrusy notes, particularly grapefruit, and ripe pears on the palate. The medium-level acidity is mouthwatering like a tart apple and 13.5% alcohol provides a medium-plus body. The finish isn’t super-long, but it’s juicy and fruity and just a little bitter. Being rich and a touch off-dry makes this wine easy to enjoy without food. Though it’s not quite organic, this Chenin Blanc was made from sustainably grown grapes with limited chemical applications.Very good.
At Vinodivino for $17.00.
by katrin on January 11, 2012
Occasionally, I find a wine that is so surprisingly good that I am blown away. The 2008 August Kesseler Spätburgunder Pinot N is one such wine.
The color is garnet that is starting to turn a bit brownish. The nose and palate have ripe strawberry and blackberry, spice, brambly, and just enough mushroom and black tea to remind you that you are enjoying a Pinot Noir. Light oak adds some warm vanilla to the palate.
Perfectly balanced, with medium acidity, medium-minus tannins that are delicate and grippy, and a relatively significant 13% alcohol, this Pinot Noir has a solid, but not overbearing, structure for the fruit. By New World standards, this would be considered a light-weight wine, but it is wonderfully full and ripe compared to other German reds. Delicious with or without food. Long spicy finish.
If you like Pinot Noir, this wine is worth seeking out. Very good/excellent.
At Nine Acre Wines for $19.99.
by katrin on January 10, 2012
Las Loicas, or "the finches", Cabernet Sauvignon
I am not a big fan of rustic wines that conjure images of horses, hay, and barnyards, and I have wondered if perhaps I lack the patience or the palate for such wines. Upon opening, Las Loicas Cabernet Sauvignon reminded me of being down on the farm. Not all that long ago many Argentine wines smelled and tasted like this. However, in the past 7 to 10 years, Argentine wines transformed from rustic to refined and it has been a while since I have had a wine like this. Nevertheless, I didn’t like it and thus reinserted the cork and set it aside.
The next day I gave it a second chance, and overnight – not unlike the entire Argentine wine industry – it had evolved and improved. The nose had red currant, cherry, mushroom, hints of meat, and pepper. On the palate, cassis and ripe black fruit were rounded out by a little vinyl and cocoa. The oak was subtle, allowing the fruit to shine. Acidity, tannins, and alcohol were very well-balanced and gave the wine a pleasant structure and complexity. A nice, long finish. And certainly a positive point: it’s made from 100% organic grapes.
At Whole Foods in Dedham, Mass. for $15.99.
by katrin on January 9, 2012
In the continuing search for a perfect wine for a dinner for 500 guests, my colleagues and I tried two wines in a lighter style: the 2010 Jean-Marc Burgaud Régnié “Vallières” Beaujolais Cru and the 2009 Giacomo Ascheri Barbera d’Alba Vigna Fontanelle. We were split between these two options, both of which we liked a lot.
The Burgaud come from the Régnié appellation, which is the most recent addition to the Beaujolais Cru category, having been designated in 1988. Fortunately, the initial aromas of sweat and horse and flavor of leather dissipated after about 20 minutes, allowing the fruit – primarily bright sour cherry and raspberry – to come forward. A couple of my colleagues picked up on a slight green undertone, which I would describe as an herbaceous quality. The palate was dusty with a stony minerality and pepperiness. Medium-plus acidity with modest, but tactile tannins. Streamlined. Unmistakably Gamay in a very good way, I found this to be a very appealing wine.
At Vinodivino for $16.50.
The Ascheri Barbera d’Alba was immediately likeable with pronounced black cherry juice and blueberry aromas. The palate was ripe, spicier, and richer than the Beaujolais. I thought that the oak had been used judiciously, lending light vanilla, particularly on the palate. Medium-plus acidity, medium tannins, medium-minus body, with a good, long-lasting finish. The longer it was open, the more rustic it started to get.
At Gordon’s Fine Wine for $15.99.
by katrin on January 6, 2012
The Chateau de La Chaize from Beaujolais’s Brouilly appellation hails from the famed 2009 vintage. It is a semi-finalist for the red wine to be served at the dinner I mentioned in my previous post. My fellow tasters and I liked that it is tasty, interesting, and fresh, with neither tannins nor acidity overly asserting themselves. A solid, middle of the road kind of wine that won’t offend, will go well with the meal, and just might win over some new fans to the growing Beaujolais camp. While Chateau de La Chaize eschews labels like “organic” and “biodynamic”, they do incorporate some of the principals of these practices in their viticulture, including limiting chemicals and planting grass between rows.
Blueberry and cherry aromas and flavors mingle with floral notes, a bit of banana, and a hint of spice. There is a grapiness to this wine. Medium-plus acidity, medium-minus tannins, body is on the light side and the finish is a little short.
Being well received by all six tasters, myself included, the Chateau de La Chaize is a strong contender. Have a suggestion for what to serve 500 people? Please let me know!
At Gordon’s Fine Wines for $14.99.
by katrin on January 5, 2012
Last February I reviewed one of my favorite wines in the under $20 price range: Domaine Vigneau-Chevreau Vouvray. It was from the 2007 vintage and I found the “wine’s richness, purity, and delicious…hard to resist.” I am currently in the process of selecting wine for a 500-person event at my “day job” and the 2010 vintage of this wine is a contender for the white to be served with dinner. Why a contender, rather than an obvious choice? Because, to my surprise, some of my fellow tasters/colleagues were not quite as taken with it as I continue to be.
The fruit in the 2010 is incredible, with fresh green apple, Bosc pear, quince, and lime, along with some of that wooliness, for which Chenin Blanc is known, are intense on the nose and palate. It is racy with a zesty acidity that makes my taste buds take notice. As with the 2007 there is a lot of minerality. But the ripeness and honey notes are not here, and it feels quite young. To my surprise, the colleagues who tasted with me were almost puzzled by this wine. They lacked the words to describe what they were tasting, but “funky” came up a couple of times and some thought it was like tasting a cellar.
I love the possibility of serving a biodynamic or organic wine like this one and introducing our guests to a wine that they likely would not encounter otherwise, but my colleagues’ reactions make me cautious about selecting the Vigneau-Chevreau. Luckily, I still have a couple of weeks to make a decision. If you can suggest a crowd-pleasing, but interesting wine that retails for $18 or less, please do leave a comment. I’m open to suggestions!
At Atlas Liquors for $19.99.
