by katrin on May 21, 2012
First of all, I have to address a question that I had been on my mind since I picked up this wine: what is Laborde Double Select? According to winemaker Laura Catena in an interview with Vin de la Table, it refers to Luis Laborde, who brought a select sample of Syrah vines from the Rhône. He planted them in Mendoza, studied the vines, and selected the clones that produced the best fruit, hence the double select. The vines from which the grapes for this wine were harvested are now just over 50 years old and producing great wine.
In the glass the Luca Syrah was a deep, saturated, rich purple that shows no signs of having aged. The nose was attractive and vibrant with loads of fresh blueberry and ripe black cherries, kirsch, dust, and pepper. Dark chocolate, black licorice, dark fruits, and cedar create an interesting palate. Medium bodied with a solid core of acidity and tannins that have started to dissipate a bit with age. Moderately long finish. Very good.
At Vinodivino for about $22.
by katrin on May 17, 2012
Rheinhessen is the largest wine region in Germany and nearly a third of the wines produced there are red wines. Though the 2009 harvest in Rheinhessen was somewhat smaller, it was a particularly good year for ripening Pinot Noir, according to the German Wine Institute. The ripeness shows in this Pinot from Weingut Schäfer, which has a relatively high alcohol level at 13.5%. (The alcohol on most German reds that I have seen usually falls between 11% and 12.5%.) Fortunately, the Weingut Schäfer has a solid fruit base, since the alcohol, which gives the wine a sweet warmth, nearly dominates the palate and threatens to throw this wine out of balance. Aromas of boysenberry, tobacco, lilac, and perfume, along with a slight banana fermentation aroma. The palate has dark red fruit, vanilla, spice, cherry-flavored cough syrup, and a strong mushroom-umami. Light to medium body, medium acidity, and light tannins. Spice and red berry flavors linger, along with some heat. Good.
At Nine Acre Wines for $14.99.
by katrin on May 13, 2012
Tony Soter, who has worked his winemaking magic at Napa’s Etude Wines, Willamette Valley’s Soter Vineyards, and dozens of prestigious wineries over the years, has made a rosé to savor. A couple of years ago, he launched the Soter Vineyards’ second label: North Valley. The North Valley rosé is simply one of the best rosés I have had in recent memory, perfect for anyone seeking a less delicate rosé. This fresh and bright pink wine has a somewhat surprising composition: 80% Pinot Noir, 16% Chardonnay, and 4% Gewürztraminer. The two white grapes were terrific blending partners, giving this rosé a memorable and unique palate. Some rosés of Pinot Noir can be rather light and the Chardonnay helps to make this wine slightly more full-bodied and rounded. Despite being only 4% of the blend, the Gewürztraminer lends its unmistakable aromatics of lychee fruit and rose. Wonderfully mouthwatering with a long, zippy finish. Very good/excellent.
At Martignetti’s for $22.99.
The L’Aventure Languedoc tasting in April that Glenn and I participated in last month was a fantastic opportunity to get reacquainted with the wines of the Languedoc. One of the things that I took away from that tasting was that there are many great wines – not the rough plonk for which it had developed a bad reputation – being made in the region that are available here at quite reasonable prices. Of the dozens that we tasted, one particular wine really stood out: the 2007 Pierre Gaillard Transhumance. Both Glenn and I stood back and said “wow” and savored the sample. It was concentrated, but elegant, and I made a point to seek it out after the tasting.
With May 3 being Languedoc Wine Day on Twitter (#LanguedocDay), it seemed a perfect time to open this wine. Made by Pierre Gaillard, who is better known for his wines from the northern Rhône, Transhumance is a blend of 50% Syrah, 40% Grenache, and 10% Mourvedre. It is from a small appellation called Faugères, which has soils dominated by schist.
At five years old, it showed little sign of fatigue in the glass with a core of dark purple and lighter violet rim. The first aromas to arise from the wine were stone, dust, and minerality. This was followed by dark cherry, a bit of blueberry, leather, and smoke. Cherry jam, cocoa, and spice on the palate. While the acidity gave Transhumance a zippy freshness, the velvety tannins were rather light and short-lived. Spice and heat on the finish. Very good.
At The Vin Bin for $29.99.
by katrin on April 22, 2012
One of the reasons I love Pinot Noir is for its pensive qualities, and I feel that a great Pinot needs to be enjoyed in a relaxed and nearly meditative manner. For me, no other varietal conjures that need for quiet. When I first smelled and tasted the 2007 Luca Pinot Noir, my first reaction was that it is both expressive and flashy. But like many well-made Pinot Noirs – and there’s no disputing that Laura Catena makes great wines – there is more here when one takes the time to study it. So beyond the initial aromas of cherry, baking spice, and cedar, the Luca also reveals delicate rose and boiled almond notes. Raspberry and leather dominate the palate. The rather restrained use of French oak barrels (30% new, 70% second use) provides some structure but doesn’t overpower the grapes. Medium body. The tannins are fairly soft and velvety, but the long-lasting acidity carries the red fruit and spice flavors. Very good, and ready for drinking right now.
At Marty’s for $36.99.
by katrin on April 16, 2012
No doubt Mendoza produces some world-class Malbecs and this wine-growing region made it possible for Argentine Malbec to become an international superstar. There are, however, other great Malbec-producing regions in Argentina and one of my favorites is Salta. There are not nearly as many options hailing from this northern corner of the country from which to choose, but one of the best is Bodega Colomé, whose vineyards are planted at an astonishing 7200 – 9600 feet. The 2007 vintage is 85% Malbec , rounded out by Tannat, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah.
There’s a lot going on in this wine. The nose is big and complex: grilled fig, mocha, blackberries, vinyl, and a touch of cassis. On the palate ripe dark berries combine with lots of deep mushroom flavors, bringing to mind umami. Having a few years in the bottle has brought the flavors into harmony with the tannins and acidity. Very nicely balanced and very enjoyable.
About $25 at area wine shops.
P.S. Don’t forget: tomorrow is Malbec World Day!!
by katrin on April 15, 2012
April 17! It’s only two days away! Certainly you have it circled on your calendar as I have on mine; it’s Malbec World Day, a day to celebrate the Malbec grape in all its forms – from its origins in Bordeaux to its home in Argentina. To many of us, Malbec has defined the Argentine wine industry as much as Argentina has defined what we consider to be Malbec today. And so, the first of three Malbec reviews.
Ave is made by world-renown Tuscan flying winemaker Alberto Antonini, who has worked with several Argentine wineries, notably Altos Las Hormigas, but also Nieto Senetiner and Chakana. I have to admit that it was, in fact, his credit as winemaker on the label that ultimately made me choose this bottle from a couple of other similarly priced Mablecs in the store.
Aromas of blackberry, pepper, chocolate, and fig abound. When the wine first hits the palate there is a pop of black licorice followed by figs and plums on the mid-palate, rounded out by mocha and earth. It is intensely flavorful with all of those dark notes lingering a long time in the finish. Medium-minus tannins and acidity, however, make the alcohol (14.7% in the 2008 vintage) feel more intense than I would have liked. The mouthfeel is softer than what I would expect for a wine of this flavor intensity. Lengthy oak aging gives the Gran Riserva a warm, sweet vanilla-oak flavor. Very good.
At Martignetti’s for $22.99.
