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Restaurant Week

A Pleasant Restaurant Week Surprise – Dinner at The Marliave

by Eleni-Glenn-Katrin on August 29, 2011

Glenn – Frankly, I hadn’t been intending to “participate” in Restaurant Week. In addition, I had never considered dining at the Marliave. Recently, I’ve had some wonderful prix fixe meals through Mystery Meet and the culinary high point of my winter and spring was attending the Eat pop up restaurants created by Will Gilson and Aaron Cohen. To go out to a restaurant to eat from a “special”, i.e. often problematic, boring or iffy, Restaurant Week menu just didn’t interest me. Don’t get me wrong – I’ve had some memorable RW meals – but I’ve also had formulaic, uninspired offerings that weren’t worth leaving the house for. However, Eleni, in town for a few days with her family, suggested we get together for Restaurant Week. Her criteria was that the resto be close to their hotel and be child-friendly. The Marliave met both guidelines and so we dined there for Restaurant Week.

Eleni - Restaurant Week has long been a staple in our lives although in the past year or so it has lost its momentum.  We used to try to get in two to three restaurants a week.  This year we hadn’t even planned one.  Knowing I would be in town and figuring it was worth the ask, we ended up at Marliave for dinner.

On my way there I was pleasantly reminded of cocktails at the Silvertone in the years before the cocktail resurgence, cocktail menus, and resources like those our friend Adam Lantheaume sells at The Boston Shaker were available.

When I realized where Marliave was located, on the corner, in the building with the beautiful balcony that reminded me of eating in Europe, my anticipation doubled.  The aesthetics are fabulous: old world mixed with modern touches.  The building itself is a stunner: trellis-like architecture, beautiful moulding, a variety of architectural details.  At the same time they have added modern elements: the bar is definitely of this era with its sleek granite counter tops (do I recall that correctly?) and the flatware (Wedgwood) and placesettings were classic and modern, too.

But I digress.

 
Katrin - After a day at the office that resulted in severely elevated blood pressure, the laid-back vibe and friendly bartender working the first floor bar helped to ease the transition to a relaxing evening. I started with not one, but two, Blind Pigs.  I couldn’t resist.  This light, delicious cocktail built around Hendricks gin was perfect!
 
Eleni - The volume of food was overwhelming.  We had the entire menu to tempt us and full portions were served. To begin, I had the escargot.  Classic and delicious. 
I also ordered my Junior Taster the Macaroni & Cheese made with ziti and black truffle oil.  While she was more interested in the forthcoming hamburger we enjoyed it on her behalf.  Presented in a vessel reminiscent of an Emile Henry lion’s head soup bowl (quite possibly itself), it had a delightfully creamy and soupy sauce one doesn’t often encounter in the ubiquitous comfort dish.
For the next course, the Fish and Chips.  The cod was some of the lightest fried fish I have eaten in quite some time.
 
Glenn – Yes, as Eleni stated this was the regular everyday menu – with a few deletions – rather than a “special” RW menu. Now isn’t this what Restaurant week should be about? Showcasing a restaurant’s cuisine rather than attempting a one-off menu. I began with a glass of the Trimbach Pinot Gris Reserve – aromatic, medium-bodied, balanced, restrained. We then opted to split a bottle of Charles Smith’s iconic “The Velvet Devil”. My starter was a simple Caprese Salad -

Late summer perfection

- a lusciously ripe black Cherokee tomato, buffalo mozzarella, a drizzle of EVOO, a splash of balsamic, a chiffonade of basil – perfect! For my Second Course,

Sea scallops, wild mushrooms and pea raviolis

I chose Divers Scallops with Wild Mushrooms and Pea Ravioli. Three large sea scallops were perfectly seared and caramelized; the delicate sweetness of the scallops contrasting with the earthiness of the mushroom ragout; both highlighted by the clean vibrant taste of the pea-filled raviolis. And finally, my over-the-top dessert – Butterscotch Pudding with Salted Peanuts. I thought I’d found the quintessential butterscotch pudding at Nancy Silverton’s Pizzaria Mozza.

However, the offering at Marliave offered a new paragon of butterscotchness - creamy and smooth with deep flavor and nearly overwhelming richness. A tip of the toque to Pastry Chef  Sharon Claxton.

Katrin – So many choices!  I started with the mussels, which had a savory broth that would have been perfect on it’s own.  In fact, the only problem I had with it was that I could pick up the cast iron post and enjoy every drop!

Next, I went with another classic – Chicken under a Brick. Served with a creamy risotto and lots of mushrooms and roasted garlic, the chicken was perfectly done and had a crispy, salty skin.

Eleni - I went with the Cheese Plate as my finale and enjoyed sampling several cheeses and candied walnuts, but I ordered it to sample the lavender honey. 

From the top - Brillat Savarin, triple creme cow's milk; Lake's Edge, goat's milk; Roquefort Carles, sheep's milk. (Note the golden squiggle of lavender honey.)

 I’ve been experimenting with lavender food items since I purchased some lavender sea salt at the Farmer’s Market in San Francisco about five years ago.  Honestly, I was so stuffed I couldn’t enjoy a thing although I did sample Junior Taster’s berries with “mint, hibiscus and soft whipped cream” which was a nice, light ending to such a full meal.

Katrin – In closing, Marliave offers classic dishes done well and at a reasonable price for the Downtown Crossing neighborhood. It’s not fancy, cutting edge cuisine, but it almost doesn’t matter. With a long list of interesting cocktails at only $10 each, there is much to like here.

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He Said, She Said – In search of Cuisine: Restaurant Week at T.W. Food

by glenn on March 17, 2011

The extraordinary charcuterie at T.W. Food

GLENN – Eleni and Katrin have grown weary of comfort foods - both the traditional down-home variety and the gussied-up contemporary version. Not to sound elitist, it was time for some cuisine. Eleni had expressed an interest in TW Food, and Katrin and I concurred. Even though it was Restaurant Week, we were off to sample TW’s personal and imaginative cuisine. And we weren’t disappointed.

TW Food is a collaborative effort between Tim and Bronwyn Weichmann. The restaurant is small – legal seating capacity 22 people – tucked into an apartment building on Walden Street in Cambridge. The decor is tasteful and restrained; service unobtrusive and well-coordinated. Thankfully, neither server introduced themselves.

The wine list, while short, is well-curated and features two seasonal selections. We chose the Binomio, a Montepulciano that was like a bouquet of violets, perfect for the near-spring evening of our visit. The menu for Restaurant Week is generous with a choice of six starters, four entrees, and  four desserts. Two of the starters are supplemental charges.I began with the Grand Charcuterie, which was awe inspiring. Consisting of eight house-made items, each was well made and perfectly seasoned. Since Tim has done a series of stages in Europe, I assume that’s where he learned his skill in charcuterie.

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Restaurant Week Redeemed – Dinner at Rocca

by glenn on August 30, 2010

I was once a fan of Restaurant Week. I would eagerly await the release of the list of participating restaurants and then assiduously comb the list selecting those restaurants I would visit during RW. I had some great meals – Mistral, Radius – and not so great – Aquitaine. Yet, over the years, the thrill diminished –  RW began to seem like an overworked gimmick. And I was never able to get a reservation for a civilized dining time at the former flagship of the grupo. However, when Katrin mentioned a visit to Rocca which would also provide a chance to spend time with Rodney who was back for a brief State-side visit, I was eager to once again head out for RW. My interest in going to Rocca was sparked by Devra First’s laudatory review in “The Globe” of the restaurant and its new chef, Tiffani Faison. I knew that Tiffani had been on a food show but since my interest in food TV is confined to the classics – reruns of  ”The French Chef” and “Jacques and Julia” – I didn’t know which one, nor very much care;  the proof of a chef’s ability and palate isn’t on TV but on the plate in front of me. It was time to sample Tiffani’s talents. [click to continue…]

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