by glenn on September 28, 2011
Long ago and once upon a time, after finishing culinary school, I got a job at a resort on Cape Cod as a lowly Baker’s Helper. As such, I worked all night and slept all day. With Labor Day and the end of the tourist season, I returned to a more normal schedule and discovered September on the Cape. That month is so glorious here that I have since returned each and every year to spend time enjoying the Cape – particularly Provincetown – when the crowds have left, the weather is wonderful and the ocean most warm. The only off note is the issue of service. When I was living on the Cape, I discovered that service – in all areas of customer contact – was off-handed, lacksadaisical, perfunctory. When I was visiting the friend with whom I had moved to the Cape so many years ago and who settled there after I decamped to Somerville, she blurted out at one point, “Glenn, the service here still sucks!” And no where can the service issue be more pronounced than in a restaurant setting. Patrons are seen as covers occupying tables which need to be turned quickly to optimize profits and tips. However, one place where I’ve always felt welcome and appreciated is The Mews Restaurant & Café - the staff always warm and engaged. So yesterday, after a languid afternoon at the beach, I went there for dinner. The food here is not cutting edge or extraordinary but always well prepared and consistent. The cocktail menu is focused on vodka – the bar having an inventory of nearly 300 varieties. The drinks menu is martini-centric. Being a gin kind of guy and since the weather has been an unexpected extension of summer, I asked for one of my favorite summer drinks – Hendricks Gin and St. Germaine, mixed 4 parts gin to 1 part St. Germain. Note – go easy on the St. G. or this becomes a girlie drink. I had the Catch of the Day – pan seared local swordfish garnished with a seared sea scallop atop haricot verts and cauliflower puree finished with a citrus sauce and a balsamic reduction. The only fault was that the tasty cauliflower puree was tepid. I accompanied my entree with the Lícia Albarino 2010 – floral and mineral – with enough acidity to pair with the fish and enough heft to meet the balsamic reduction. From my window seat, I watched the harbor transition through sunset to early evening – romantic. Yet, it wasn’t the food or view for which I’d come – though both were fine – but for the service – I was made to feel special, a feeling most appropriate for my time in P-Town.
The Mews Restaurant & Cafe 429 Commerial St. Provincetown MA
by glenn on July 25, 2011
The eponymous Area Four in Area Four
We at Wine Dine With Us have been planning on visiting Area Four just to see just what the culinary commotion across the river is all about. However, I unexpectedly ended up dining there on a recent afternoon. I had out-of-town guests here to attend the evening game at Fenway. We decided that pizza and ice cream would be a good pre-game meal – and pizza and ice cream means Picco in the South End, one of our fave restos. We hopped on 93 for the trip into town but it was a proverbial parking lot. The temperature was 103° and compounded by equatorial humidity – a change of plans was in order. So we exited that highway to hell as soon as possible and made our way to Area Four – we had a pizza mind-set and with its wood-fired ovens, pizza is prominent at Area Four. As the above sign states, Area Four comprises “coffee/bakery/bar/oven”. The coffee shop – coffee/bakery – and the dining room – bar/oven – occupy separate areas of the large, airy and pleasant industrial space. We begin with drinks – my guests had the “Harpoon 100 Barrel IPA” and I had “Jack D’Or” - Pretty Things on tap augurs good things to come. Please note – all beers and wines, except for the sparklers, are ON TAP. For those - such as us at WDWU – concerned with the carbon footprint of wine packaging, this is a very good thing. There is also a well – dare I use the word – curated selections of aperitifs and digestifs. And of course, cocktails. The menu is divided into six sections – small, medium, large, pizza, sides, dessert. We began with the Sweet Pea Hummus and Pita from the “small” section. And since the small plates are discounted the more that are ordered, we ordered three more - A4 Mozzarella, Smoked Tomato, Spicy Fennel-Garlic Vinaigrette; Local Beets, Tarragon Vinaigrette; and KK’s Bacon and Sea Salt Pretzel Rod, Caramelized Apple Mustard. All were delicious with great depth and brightness of flavor. When we asked the server about the wonderful hummus, Michael Leviton, chef and co-owner, overheard, came to our table and answered our query. When we raved about the beets, he generously shared the roasting technique he uses on them. Free culinary instruction – wonderful! He asked which pizza we’d ordered; the Exotic Mushroom and Fontina, we replied. He recommended the Fennel Sausage and Pickled Banana Pepper and the Wellfleet Cherrystone Clam and Bacon pies. (I’ll be having those on my return visit.) And that Exotic Mushroom and Fontina pie? The wonderful umami flavor of roasted mushrooms contrasted with the piquant creaminess of the cheese and was highlighted with a touch of lemon. (I may have to order that one again also.) And finally, dessert. One of my guests chose the Olive Oil-Chocolate Cake, another the Moses Sleeper Cheese and I did get my ice cream – a soft-serve swirl of blueberry and cherry topped with sugared and salted nuts. I was leery about that olive oil cake. Frankly, I’d never had one worth the calories. So, with some trepidation, I sampled it. Finally, an olive oil cake that worked. My serendipitous trip to Area Four was a tasty success. As one of my guests stated “This is food worth going out for.” I’m anticipating my return visit and an even more extensive sampling of the menu.
Industrial Chic
Area Four 500Technology Square Camb. MA
by glenn on July 12, 2011
J’s Restaurant, Nashoba Valley Winery, 100 Wattaquadoc Hill Rd., Bolton MA
- An afternoon in the lovely Nashoba Valley
I first dined at J’s during mud season – gray damp gloom, puddles and mud. I thoroughly enjoyed the brunch and knew I’d make a return trip in more pleasant weather. So on a beautifully perfect summer’s day – sunny, mid 80s, low humidity – I made my return visit.
Brunch isn’t a particularly lavish affair; rather, the menu is focused, thoughtfully composed and well executed. For starters – spinach bisque soup, smoked Maine trout with lemon sage cream cheese, a Mediterranean display comprising hummus, quinoa tabbouli and grilled vegetables, assorted salads including the popular – at our table at least – wakami salad. Breakfast items included caramelized banana french toast, a vegetarian strata – actually more like a frittata – and breakfast meats. Savory selections – the delicious Vidal Blanc braised chicken with zucchini, cherry tomatoes and brown rice pilaf and my favorite, honey lavender pork loin with Virginia grits – lots of cheese – and chayote slaw – the vinaigrette a perfect foil to the sweetness of the pork and richness of the grits. Dessert encompasses sliced fruit, mixed berries, cheeses, finger pastries, a fruit crisp and almond tart. Much of the food is locally sourced. And the kicker? All this for only $22.50++! Please note – though some items may be regularly available, the menu does change weekly. A large selection of the winery’s beers and wines is available by the glass. I enjoyed the somewhat honeyed and full-bodied Pinot Gris. The restaurant has a patio for those inclined to al fresco. Only an hour from Boston, brunch here is a pleasant way to spend a Sunday in the country. The restaurant is also open for lunch and dinner. Check the website for hours of operation, FAQs and more about the winery’s beers and ales, wines and spirits.
My fave - honey lavender pork, Virginia grits and chayote slaw
