by katrin on May 17, 2012
Rheinhessen is the largest wine region in Germany and nearly a third of the wines produced there are red wines. Though the 2009 harvest in Rheinhessen was somewhat smaller, it was a particularly good year for ripening Pinot Noir, according to the German Wine Institute. The ripeness shows in this Pinot from Weingut Schäfer, which has a relatively high alcohol level at 13.5%. (The alcohol on most German reds that I have seen usually falls between 11% and 12.5%.) Fortunately, the Weingut Schäfer has a solid fruit base, since the alcohol, which gives the wine a sweet warmth, nearly dominates the palate and threatens to throw this wine out of balance. Aromas of boysenberry, tobacco, lilac, and perfume, along with a slight banana fermentation aroma. The palate has dark red fruit, vanilla, spice, cherry-flavored cough syrup, and a strong mushroom-umami. Light to medium body, medium acidity, and light tannins. Spice and red berry flavors linger, along with some heat. Good.
At Nine Acre Wines for $14.99.
by katrin on May 13, 2012
Tony Soter, who has worked his winemaking magic at Napa’s Etude Wines, Willamette Valley’s Soter Vineyards, and dozens of prestigious wineries over the years, has made a rosé to savor. A couple of years ago, he launched the Soter Vineyards’ second label: North Valley. The North Valley rosé is simply one of the best rosés I have had in recent memory, perfect for anyone seeking a less delicate rosé. This fresh and bright pink wine has a somewhat surprising composition: 80% Pinot Noir, 16% Chardonnay, and 4% Gewürztraminer. The two white grapes were terrific blending partners, giving this rosé a memorable and unique palate. Some rosés of Pinot Noir can be rather light and the Chardonnay helps to make this wine slightly more full-bodied and rounded. Despite being only 4% of the blend, the Gewürztraminer lends its unmistakable aromatics of lychee fruit and rose. Wonderfully mouthwatering with a long, zippy finish. Very good/excellent.
At Martignetti’s for $22.99.
by glenn and katrin on May 2, 2012
Languedoc – L’Aventure Languedoc
Languedoc , including Roussillon, is the largest wine producing region of not only France, but the world. However, only lately have sales of the region’s wines seen an uptick due to the increasingly favorable perception of the region. Though there have always been producers of quality wine here, the majority of wine was often poor plonk, much of it destined for the European wine lake. Now the situation is improving. Growers and winemakers, seeing the implications for them of the growing international wine trade, have started to turn the region around. Languedoc wines are both accessible and good value – key selling points for American wine buyers. To further promote the improved quality of Languedoc AOC wines, CIVL, the trade council representing these wines, is presenting for the first time L’Adventure Languedoc, a series of events for both consumers and the trade across the US. In Boston, the event was held at the Boston Conference Center, a wonderfully refurbished venue at the end of the Boston Fish Pier.
Since I’m a fan of the Piquepol grape, I was more than happy to have the opportunity to taste a variety of offerings from the appellation, Picpoul de Pinet, where the grape plays a starring role. The wines ranged from ultra racy to rich and full-bodied. My favorite of the lot was the 2010 Paul Mas Estates Picpoul de Pinet Grand Vin de Languedoc. In anticipation of summer, we zoomed in on rosés; my favorite the 2011 Château Sainte Eulalie Plaisir d’Eulalie Minervois. As for reds, I favored wines where Syrah was the dominant varietal. I thoroughly enjoyed the 2007 Pierre Gaillard Faugères Transhumance from the noted M. Gaillard, a vigneron based in the Northern Rhone but who now has a domaine in Languedoc. Also outstanding was the 2009 Hecht and Bannier Minervois. Katrin’s top five, in no particular order, were the 2009 Chateau Sainte Eulalie Minervois la Liviniére La Cantilene; the 2010 Paul Mas Estates Picpoul de Pinet Grand Vin de Languedoc; the 2007 Pierre Gaillard Faugères Transhumance; the 2011 Cave de Pomerols 100% Syrah – Sud de France Rosé; the 2011 Castelmaure Corbières Rosé.
Loire – Loire Valley Wines
The Loire Valley is no longer terra incognita to American wine buyers. Wines that have long been popular in France – Loire wines are the mainstay of the cartes de vin in French bistros – are now appreciated here and more easily found than ever. These wines represent a multitude of both white and red varietals and styles – racy or full-bodied whites, light or hearty reds, rosés both dry and off-dry and sparklers. Literally, in the Loire, there is something for every taste.
Like last year, the Loire Valley Wines trade show was held at the EMC Club at Fenway Park. Understandably, the venue competed with the wines, even more so since it was the day before the home opener. Yet, we were able to focus on the task at hand. First off, if ever we regretted not having an importer’s license, it was at this event. Most of the wines had no Massachusetts importers. And since we were merely press, our praise for the participants’ wines was faint indeed. We tasted racy Sauvignon Blancs with wonderful grapefruit zip; an obscure but delicious white varietal – Romorantin; both delicate Pinot Noirs and more robust iterations of this grape; spot-on renditions of Cabernet Franc; and sparkling Cremants de Loire that rivaled some Champagnes. We could taste but couldn’t buy out in the real world and consequently felt that we wouldn’t recommend wines unavailable in Massachusetts. Hopefully, some of these good quality wines found an importer and will be available in the future. At some point, we grabbed a glass of a particularly toothsome Cab Franc to savor and made our way to the outside seats to contemplate the Old Ballyard.
An interesting aspect of the show was the prominence – at least it seemed to us – of off-dry rosés. I initially felt this inclusion was misguided – Americans want dry wines. But do they? With the recent emergence of Muscat/Moscato, perhaps these rosés represent an emerging trend. And frankly, as one who doesn’t fear sugar, I found several quite captivating, perfect summer aperitifs.
Contemplating the Old Ballyard
by katrin on April 29, 2012
If ever a wine called to me from the shelf of a wine shop, it was this one. From the pink cow and butterflies on the label to the cork fastened down with loops of string to the enticing strawberry-salmon color that seems to shine in the clear bottle, I was destined to leave the store with the Meinklang. But only after the sales person assured me it was dry. After all, with an alcohol level of merely 10.5%, I wondered if this was going to be a sweet sipper. Low alcohol, pink, biodynamic, and the winemaker is a woman – could it get any better?
The nose and the palate are redolent of a basket of red, ripe summer fruits – strawberries, sour cherries, and raspberry. After the initial charge of intense, mouth-watering acidity, the wine’s light bubbles dance around in the mouth. There is just a hint of residual sugar, but with the acidity I was actually glad for it. Medium body and a long, red-berry finish. This wine became richer and more flavorful when it was between refrigerator and room temperature. Delicious.
At Brix on Broad for $19.99.
by katrin on April 22, 2012
One of the reasons I love Pinot Noir is for its pensive qualities, and I feel that a great Pinot needs to be enjoyed in a relaxed and nearly meditative manner. For me, no other varietal conjures that need for quiet. When I first smelled and tasted the 2007 Luca Pinot Noir, my first reaction was that it is both expressive and flashy. But like many well-made Pinot Noirs – and there’s no disputing that Laura Catena makes great wines – there is more here when one takes the time to study it. So beyond the initial aromas of cherry, baking spice, and cedar, the Luca also reveals delicate rose and boiled almond notes. Raspberry and leather dominate the palate. The rather restrained use of French oak barrels (30% new, 70% second use) provides some structure but doesn’t overpower the grapes. Medium body. The tannins are fairly soft and velvety, but the long-lasting acidity carries the red fruit and spice flavors. Very good, and ready for drinking right now.
At Marty’s for $36.99.
by katrin on March 26, 2012
Cristom's Vines and Garden (by Katrin)
Indisputably, one of the highlights of the Wine Dine With Us team’s trip through the heart of Oregon’s main winemaking region a few years ago was our visit to Cristom. It was a visit that almost did not happen. Somehow in the planning, one of us (that would be me!) overlooked the fact that we needed an appointment. Fortunately – and as is typical in the gracious hospitality of people in the region – the tasting room manager welcomed us anyway and poured us a sampling of some of the region’s most elegant and memorable wines.
On Thursday I had an opportunity to relive a bit of that trip when John d’Anna, Cristom’s Director of Sales and Marketing, came to Gordon’s Fine Wine and Culinary Center in Waltham for a tasting and seminar on Cristom wines. John, who was both engaging and energetic, talked about the winery’s viticultural and winemaking techniques, while leading the participants through a tasting of six of the winery’s stellar offerings.
Founded in 1992, Cristom produces only 10,000 cases of their carefully-made wines annually. It’s clear that winemaker Steve Doerner has a vision for his wines and John described some of the techniques that he employs. For example, Steve uses whole cluster fermentation for a portion of many of the wines. This method adds texture and structure, and gives the wines a more interesting mouthfeel. Whole cluster fermentation is popular in Burgundy, but is not used as often in Oregon. Also, while the winery’s top wines are single vineyard bottlings, blending wines made from grapes from different vineyards plays a key role in the two Pinot Noir cuvees, as well as the Pinot Gris we tasted. Steve strives for consistency year after year in the Mt Jefferson and Sommers Reserve Pinots. John likened the blending process to an artist creating a painting and that the different wines offer more colors with which Steve can work to produce the wine he envisions.
On to the wines…
2009 Cristom Pinot Gris
Cristom’s Pinot Gris is a blend of largely estate-grown fruit from the winery’s 5-acre Emilia vineyard, with some purchased fruit blended in. Fruit-driven with plenty of Asian pear, citrus, and melon. It is rich and mouth-coating with both a steely acidity and a creamy texture resulting from having been aged on its lees for 11 months.
Retail price $19.99
2009 Cristom Mt Jefferson Pinot Noir
While Cristom’s wines have great ageing potential, I think that the Mt Jefferson cuvee is perfect right now. A blend of fruit from twelve vineyard sites in the Willamette Valley, this cuvee has raspberry, spice, tea, and mushroom on the nose and palate. Medium plus acidity gives this wine a bright vivacity.
Retail price $32.99
2008 Cristom Sommers Reserve Pinot Noir
I found the Sommers Reserve less expressive than the Mt Jefferson and any of the wines that followed. Earthy, spicy, and brambly, and less of the red fruit found in the Mt Jefferson. Very nice mouthfeel with medium acidity and elegant, velvety tannins.
Retail price $44.99
2008 Cristom Pinot Noir Jessie Vineyard
The Jessie Vineyard is planted on Cristom’s steepest site. The vineyard has five distinguishable soil types, which no doubt help to imbue this beautiful and intriguing wine with complexity. Black cherry, cola, meat, and fresh herbs. Perfectly balanced acidity, tannins, alcohol, and flavor with lasting finish that leaves an impression of sweetness at the end.
Retail price$52.99
2008 Cristom Pinot Noir Eileen Vineyard
An unexpected bonus at the tasting was the addition of the Eileen Vineyard Pinot Noir. This fruit-driven wine was, for me, more “New World” in style than the others. A core of red fruits, with herbal and chocolate notes, it is rich, ripe, and big with a bit of flash.
Retail price $52.99
2008 Cristom Pinot Noir Marjorie Vineyard
Planted back in 1982, the Marjorie Vineyard is Cristom’s oldest vineyard. Morrell cherries, tobacco leaf, tea, forest floor, mocha, and a hint of meat. Bigger, denser tannins, very long finish, and great complexity.
Retail price $69.99
The Cristom tasting is only one of many great events and programs offered by Gordon’s Fine Wines in their Fine Wine and Culinary Center. Be sure to check out the full schedule of upcoming programs!
by katrin on February 15, 2012
Move over Malbec! To date, my two favorite wines to be released by 90+ Cellars have both been Malbecs: the Lot 3 and Lot 36 from Salta and Mendoza respectively. But as of today, I have a new favorite: the Lot 56 Reserve Pinot Noir from the Russian River Valley. Simply put, this is a fantastic wine and an outstanding score for 90+ Cellars.
The Lot 56 has a youthful appearance in the glass and is pale ruby. The nose is fresh red berries, cherry, and a bit of violet. Crushed raspberries, cola, spice, and licorice make for an enticing and complex palate. Unlike many Pinot Noirs from Oregon, which have an earthy, mushroom core, this is all about the fruit. The tannins are light and delicate, but the medium-plus acidity gives the wine plenty of structure. A bit racy, but still very elegant. A lingering finish, with notes of raspberry and spice.
Though this bottle was a sample courtesy of Brett at 90+ Cellars, I plan to stock up on this beauty and to serve it often in the coming months. If you like Pinot Noir, you certainly should try this wine soon. But if you love Pinot Noir from California, particularly Russian River Valley, run out and get some now! Excellent.
$20.99
