by katrin on April 16, 2012
No doubt Mendoza produces some world-class Malbecs and this wine-growing region made it possible for Argentine Malbec to become an international superstar. There are, however, other great Malbec-producing regions in Argentina and one of my favorites is Salta. There are not nearly as many options hailing from this northern corner of the country from which to choose, but one of the best is Bodega Colomé, whose vineyards are planted at an astonishing 7200 – 9600 feet. The 2007 vintage is 85% Malbec , rounded out by Tannat, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah.
There’s a lot going on in this wine. The nose is big and complex: grilled fig, mocha, blackberries, vinyl, and a touch of cassis. On the palate ripe dark berries combine with lots of deep mushroom flavors, bringing to mind umami. Having a few years in the bottle has brought the flavors into harmony with the tannins and acidity. Very nicely balanced and very enjoyable.
About $25 at area wine shops.
P.S. Don’t forget: tomorrow is Malbec World Day!!
by katrin on April 15, 2012
April 17! It’s only two days away! Certainly you have it circled on your calendar as I have on mine; it’s Malbec World Day, a day to celebrate the Malbec grape in all its forms – from its origins in Bordeaux to its home in Argentina. To many of us, Malbec has defined the Argentine wine industry as much as Argentina has defined what we consider to be Malbec today. And so, the first of three Malbec reviews.
Ave is made by world-renown Tuscan flying winemaker Alberto Antonini, who has worked with several Argentine wineries, notably Altos Las Hormigas, but also Nieto Senetiner and Chakana. I have to admit that it was, in fact, his credit as winemaker on the label that ultimately made me choose this bottle from a couple of other similarly priced Mablecs in the store.
Aromas of blackberry, pepper, chocolate, and fig abound. When the wine first hits the palate there is a pop of black licorice followed by figs and plums on the mid-palate, rounded out by mocha and earth. It is intensely flavorful with all of those dark notes lingering a long time in the finish. Medium-minus tannins and acidity, however, make the alcohol (14.7% in the 2008 vintage) feel more intense than I would have liked. The mouthfeel is softer than what I would expect for a wine of this flavor intensity. Lengthy oak aging gives the Gran Riserva a warm, sweet vanilla-oak flavor. Very good.
At Martignetti’s for $22.99.
by katrin on February 12, 2012
With Valentine’s Day just around the corner, you might be thinking about which wine to share with your special someone. Perhaps something sparking comes to mind? Though French Champagne might be the obvious choice, the Reginato “Celestina” rosé from Mendoza is a perfectly romantic alternative.
As is quite typical of rosés made from the Malbec grape, the color of this wine is a stunning, deep pink that is almost red. The initial aromas of yeast and toast are intense. They are backed by ripe red berries and cherry notes, which continue on the palate. The mouthfeel is dry with a moderate acidity that gives it a nice crisp freshness. Made using méthode champenoise, I found the Reginato “Celestina” to be much more like true Champagne than any other Argentine sparkling wine that I have tried to date. And at less than half the cost, it is a perfectly budget-conscious bubbly with which to celebrate. Very good.
At Marty’s for $21.99.
by Eleni-Glenn-Katrin on December 27, 2011
With Christmas and Hanukkah finally behind us, it will soon be time to mark the end of 2011. To usher in the New Year, here are some of our suggestions for bubbles and brews of all forms.
Katrin – What to serve can sometimes depend on how many are going to be enjoying what you are pouring. For two, nothing can beat an outstanding Champagne. My choice is Camille Saves ‘Carte Blanche’. I first had this at the Federal Wine & Spirits annual Champagne tasting a couple of years ago, and it remains a favorite. For twenty (or more), a sparkling wine is festive and affordable. After enjoying the 90+ Cellars Lot 50 Prosecco, I just had to try the 90+ Cellars Lot 49 Prosecco Rosé. This is a fun wine with aromas of fresh black cherry and strawberry. And at only $11.99, you can serve it up to a crowd.
Eleni – I find New Year’s (small gatherings) to be a great Open That Bottle Night. This year, I plan to open my 2008 Amancaya, made by one of my favorite Argentine collaborations: Caro (Barons De Rothschild – Lafite) and Nicolas Catena. A 50/50 blend of Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon, this wine will make an excellent toast to the new year and to a year of drinking more outstanding wines.
Glenn -
As I’ve often remarked, a sparkler sets the tone for the evening. For NYE 2012, my first choice is the German Gilabert Rosat Brut Nature Cava. Typically, I find cavas boring – but not this one. Imported by José Pastor Selections which specializes in artisanal, traditionally made Spanish wines, this is a blend of the somewhat obscure Spanish varietal Trepat and the more commonplace Garnacha. The color is a beautiful shade of raspberry and the wine smells like a bowl of ripe red berries. The fruit carries over onto the palate and lingers through the finish. Wonderfully frothy - and since the wine is given no dosage (Brut Nature) – completely dry. Beautiful in the glass and pleasing on the palate, this cava could also be an excellent base for cocktails. And after the glut of holiday spending, the very reasonable price is an added enticement. $13.99 - at Whole Foods 340 River St. Camb. MA
My next suggestion is to get cozy with The Mad Elf. This outstanding brew from Troeg is quite festive. The photo doesn’t truly convey the ale’s beautiful ruby hue. Brewed with sweet and sour cherries, honey and chocolate malt, the aroma is sweet, fruity, malty. Rich and smooth – with an IBU of 15 - and with moderate carbonation, this ale is meant to be sipped. My feeling is that it would also pair nicely with chocolate desserts. However, be prudent with The Mad Elf – the ABV is 11%! One wants to be awake at midnight. Unlike the cava, the Mad Elf is somewhat pricey – but worth it for celebrating the arrival of the allegedly catasclysmic 2012. $16.99 – at Kappy’s Wellington Circle Medford MA
No matter how you choose to celebrate, we wish you a Happy New Year and a wine-filled 2012!
-Eleni, Glenn, Katrin, Rodney
by katrin on October 25, 2011
Eleni and I are big fans for Tikal wines and respectively have reviewed the 2006 Amorio and 2003 Patriota. While Tikal has received high marks and recognition for making exciting wines featuring Bonarda, the 2009 Natural Malbec is a fantastic example of what impressive wines Ernesto Catena and winemaker Luis Reginato can make with 100% Malbec.
The first aroma to come out of the glass of dark purple wine is plum! Spicy, jammy plum, along with brambly notes and a hint of dust. On the palate, the plum combines with red raspberry, coffee bean, and the freshness of herbs, primarily dill and a bit of mint. Medium plus acidity and medium tannins provide structure that is neither wimpy nor overbearing. Tikal Natural has a lasting finish of red fruit. It was a perfect accompaniment to beef tenderloin, but is delicious on its own, too.
At Brix Wine Shop for $19.99.
by katrin on July 11, 2011
I grumbled all the way to the store to pick-up one of 90+ Cellars’ newest releases, the Lot 36 Malbec Reserve, and hoped that it would be worth the trip. I detest the concept of bulk warehouse stores like Costco and Sam’s, but this wine, according to 90+ Cellars’ most recent newsletter is available exclusively at BJ’s Wholesale Club. So, I made the journey to the Westborough BJ’s.
The Malbec Reserve is a dark purple with the varietal’s characteristic violet hue. The first sniff and sip indicated that this is a big wine with lots going on. It has aromas of black cherries, plum, blueberries, smoke, cedar, vanilla, and some faint floral notes. The palate has a core of dark fruits, spice, black pepper, and coffee. Though it is dry, there is the impression of sweetness from the ripe fruit and oak. Medium plus tannins and medium acidity, with a very long finish. The wine was tight in the beginning, but kept evolving and getting better. It would benefit from decanting, which I plan to do before drinking the second bottle.
I will say this wine was worth the trip, especially given the price. While it would complement a steak or other asado foods perfectly, it was a very good match for our Angus hamburgers. And at this price, you don’t have to feel guilty for pairing it with simpler dishes.
At BJ’s Wholesale Club in Westborough for $12.99.
by glenn and katrin on June 28, 2011
L’Espalier Wine Monday
Argentina
The Menu
First Pairing
2010 Crios de Susana Balbo, Torrontés, Salta
Apple Street Farm Greens with Shaved Carrot and Rhubarb
Second Pairing
2009 Alfredo Roca, Malbec, Mendoza
Roasted Lamb Sausage with Pearl Barley, Tomatoes and Kalamata Olives
Third Pairing
2009 Jean Bosquet [sic], “Reserva”, Malbec, Tupungato Valley
Grilled Flank Steak with Chimichurri and Roasted Potatoes
Fourth Pairing
New Age, Sauvignon Blanc/Torrontés, Mendoza
Mt. Tam, Menage and Fourme d’Ambert
GLENN – We were eager to attend our first Wine Monday at L’Espalier on June 27th. The featured wines were from Argentina, one of our passions at WDWU. What interesting gems would Sommelier Erich Schliebe offer us? What wonderful culinary treats from the kitchen? And what imaginative pairings would we experience? Alas, the watchword for Wine Monday is casual, as in “off-the-cuff”. The wines were basically an uninspired selection of entry-level wines. Though Susana Balbo’s “Crios” is a favorite of ours, this is a large scale production and not some undiscovered gem. I found a similar lack of depth in the choice of Malbecs. The first, the 2009 Alfredo Roca, was flat and unexciting. The second, the 2009 Jean Bousquet, was over-oaked. I don’t enjoy “chewing on an oak floor” (quote attributed to Kathy Benziger). And finally the fourth wine, billed as the most popular wine in Argentina and the mainstay of Buenos Aires nightlife, was a sweetened, carbonated concoction. (An aside about restaurant wine mark-up: additional glasses of wine were available for $12 a glass – more than the wholesale, and in some cases the retail(!), cost for a bottle of any of these wines.) This was definitely “Argentina for Beginners.”
KATRIN – Glenn described the wine selection perfectly. I really had been looking forward to this dinner, and particularly the wine selection, for weeks, knowing that the wine list at L’Espalier is well-chosen, both elegant and comprehensive, and has a number of fine selections from Argentina. Plus my last experience at L’Espalier was stellar and unforgettable. If this was “Argentina for Beginners”, then I wouldn’t be surprised if it made would-be Argentina enthusiasts run back to European selections. Which is not to say they make bad wines. Quite to the contrary. Susana Balbo has become a flying winemaker in South America and Europe; Alfredo Roca has made wine in Argentina for four generations; Jean Bousquet immigrated from Southern France in the 1990s, where he had made wine; and Valentin Bianchi’s namesake and founder left Italy in 1910 to make his future in Argentina.
GLENN – The food exhibited a similar lack of excitement. The greens from Chef Frank McClelland’s farm in Essex were unremarkable – my salad a handful of baby spinach leaves, some of which were totally bruised; the vinaigrette, though, was well made. The lamb sausage – tasty, but overly salted – sat on a tasteless bed of barley. The flank steak was fine and as there are as many versions of chimichurri as there are cooks who make it. L’Espalier’s rendition was quite different – more an herb aioli. The meal ended though with a solid cheese plate – the triple creme “Mt. Tam” was at perfection and the tomme-like mixed milk “Menage” from Carr Valley Cheese provided a good contrast. And of course, “Forme d’Aumbert” is always a reliable choice for the requisite bleu. The rye bread – a variation of Swedish rye – that accompanied the cheeses was outstanding. However, the cheese plate was done a disservice by the wine that accompanied it. Service, as one would expect, was professional and courteous except for the greeters at the doors who were overly scripted and effusive – honestly, I felt like a woman of a certain age being fawned over.
KATRIN - The impression I was left with was that the restaurant has a “you get what you pay for” mentality and that if you are only paying $65 for the privilege of dining there then that is the quality of the food and wine you should expect to receive. I asked Erich how the wines were selected and it seemed that the decision was based on price. A gem like the Bodega Chacra Barda Pinot Noir, which is on their wine list, wasn’t served because it would be too expensive. Meanwhile, only Susana Balbo’s Torrontés is on the wine list; the fact that the other three didn’t make the cut speaks volumes.
