by katrin on May 17, 2012
Rheinhessen is the largest wine region in Germany and nearly a third of the wines produced there are red wines. Though the 2009 harvest in Rheinhessen was somewhat smaller, it was a particularly good year for ripening Pinot Noir, according to the German Wine Institute. The ripeness shows in this Pinot from Weingut Schäfer, which has a relatively high alcohol level at 13.5%. (The alcohol on most German reds that I have seen usually falls between 11% and 12.5%.) Fortunately, the Weingut Schäfer has a solid fruit base, since the alcohol, which gives the wine a sweet warmth, nearly dominates the palate and threatens to throw this wine out of balance. Aromas of boysenberry, tobacco, lilac, and perfume, along with a slight banana fermentation aroma. The palate has dark red fruit, vanilla, spice, cherry-flavored cough syrup, and a strong mushroom-umami. Light to medium body, medium acidity, and light tannins. Spice and red berry flavors linger, along with some heat. Good.
At Nine Acre Wines for $14.99.
by katrin on January 31, 2012
Saturday was a big night: a celebration with 500 of my organization’s nearest and dearest donors, volunteers, and friends. I had been mulling over the wine selection for weeks, tasting various options with colleagues and on my own, writing about the results, and even getting suggestions from you, our readers. In the end, the selection for the bar during the reception and for the dinner ended up being a sampling of some of my favorite wines of the past year or so that met two qualifications. First, they were within my price range of $16 or less after any discounts. And second, I thought that they would be well-received, in other words, interesting and delicious, but not overly challenging for people who thought they would be able to get a simple choice between a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc and an Australian Shiraz.
In the back of my mind, I know that it’s impossible to please everyone – though I did give it my best shot. So, for those of you who asked, here were my choices. And if you read this space often enough, you may even recognize some of them from recent reviews.
Served during dinner
2009 J. Hofstätter Meczan Pinot Nero (Alto Adige, Italy)
2009 St. Michael-Eppan Pinot Grigio Anger Vineyard (Alto Adige, Italy)
On the bar
2010 L’Ecole No. 41 Sémillon (Walla Walla, Washington)
2009 Josef Leitz “Eins, Zwei, Dry” Riesling (Rheingau, Germany)
2009 Amalaya red blend (Salta, Argentina)
2008 Brancaia Tre (Tuscany, Italy)
Though my obsession with Alto Adige was well-served, it was unintended. My first choice for the dinner red was the August Kesseler Spätburgunder Pinot N (Rheinhessen, Germany), but unfortunately just days before the event, the distributor discovered that they did not have it in stock. In the end, it was a wonderful evening to which, I hope, the wine was a wonderful complement. And in an ideal world, some guests were introduced to a new wine or region that they will explore again.
by katrin on January 11, 2012
Occasionally, I find a wine that is so surprisingly good that I am blown away. The 2008 August Kesseler Spätburgunder Pinot N is one such wine.
The color is garnet that is starting to turn a bit brownish. The nose and palate have ripe strawberry and blackberry, spice, brambly, and just enough mushroom and black tea to remind you that you are enjoying a Pinot Noir. Light oak adds some warm vanilla to the palate.
Perfectly balanced, with medium acidity, medium-minus tannins that are delicate and grippy, and a relatively significant 13% alcohol, this Pinot Noir has a solid, but not overbearing, structure for the fruit. By New World standards, this would be considered a light-weight wine, but it is wonderfully full and ripe compared to other German reds. Delicious with or without food. Long spicy finish.
If you like Pinot Noir, this wine is worth seeking out. Very good/excellent.
At Nine Acre Wines for $19.99.
by katrin on January 4, 2012
To make good on two of my wine resolutions for 2012 – to drink lighter wines and more German wines, particularly reds – I made my first wine of the new year a Franz Keller Pinot Noir. The wine comes from the Baden region in southwest Germany. Despite being the warmest winegrowing region in the country, making it possible to ripen red wine grapes, the Franz Keller Pinot Noir is light and delicate, but flavorful.
Pale garnet in the glass. The nose is fruit-forward, particularly raspberry and cherry, with some baking spice. The palate has more of the fruit, minerality, and a bit spicy. Medium-plus to high acidity, low tannins, and light body. The Franz Keller Pinot Noir is not an ideal quaffing wine, but great with food. On its own, we found its acidity somewhat bracing, but it was a perfect foil to roasted ham with trimmings, effectively cutting through the richness of the meat.
At Julio’s Liquors for $20.99.
by katrin on December 18, 2011
Another clever wine name from winemaker Johannes Leitz of Weingut Josef Leitz. His “Eins, Zwei, Dry” Riesling, which I reviewed earlier this year, was one of my favorite wines this year. Whereas the “Eins, Zwei, Dry” was dominated by apple and citrus, “Leitz Out” has lots of stone fruit – imagine ripe peaches and nectarines at the peak of summer. Add to that some lime, petrol, and slate and you have a terrific Riesling. Rich, ripe, and nearly full-bodied, the texture is a study of contrasts – soft lanolin and citrusy acidity. The lime and petrol are central to the clean, lingering, and slightly bitter finish. Though I think this is a wonderful wine, especially for the price, I would have preferred it to be a bit drier. But then again, there’s “Eins, Zwei, Dry” for that.
At Marty’s Fine Wine for $11.99.
by katrin on October 31, 2011
Unoaked. Unadulterated. Crisp, dry “naked” flavor.
Like the description on the back label of Undone Pinot Noir from Valckenberg, this is a straightforward wine. While Germany is better known for producing white wines, increasing numbers of vineyards are being planted to red grapes – perhaps a result of global climate change bringing conditions that allow red grapes to ripen better in the northerly wine growing regions. Pinot Noir has particular importance with about 11.5% of all vineyards planted with this grape according to the Deutsches Weininstitut.
Pale garnet. The nose is fresh and filled with bright red berry, sour cherry, and herbal aromas, including some eucalyptus. The Undone is bone dry and mouthwatering with medium plus acidity, low tannins, and a medium long finish. A touch of spice in the finish. Not terribly complex – and it’s not intended to be – but easy going and certainly enjoyable.
At New Hampshire Liquor Stores for $10.99.
by katrin on September 21, 2011
2009 Schloss Schönborn Estate
2009 Schloss Schönborn Hattenheimer Pfaffenberg
As the Summer of Riesling winds down and fall is merely days away, I thought I would write about two more enchanting German Rieslings. I found these two selections from Schloss Schönborn side by side at the Whole Foods on River Street in Cambridge. Both were from the 2009 vintage, both had dry on the label, both were 12.5% abv, and both were priced $18.99. Graphics aside, their big difference was the source of the grapes; the grapes that produced the Hattenheimer Pfaffenberg were from a single vineyard in Pfaffenberg, while the Estate bottle did not specify a source. I had only wanted to buy one bottle, but could not resist the opportunity to taste them at the same time and compare.
For all that these two Rieslings seemed to have in common on the surface, they were actually quite different in the glass. Both Rieslings are remarkably pale, with the Estate wine having a hint more gold and the Pfaffenberg a hint of green. The Estate Riesling was fresh and light on the nose with lots of green apple, lime, and minerality. The flavors were far riper than the nose indicated with peach, slate, and citrus. It was racy and the high acidity delivered a long finish. There was a sense of ripeness without being at all sweet, medium finish, and some bitterness.
Apricot and tropical fruit in the nose were the first signs that the Pfaffenberg was going to be richer and riper. The strong fruit continued on the palate, which had apricot, lime, and pink grapefruit pith. The biggest difference between the Pfaffenberg and the Estate wine was the mouthfeel. Starting with a bit of spritz, the mouthfeel on the Pfaffenberg was complex and evolved. The high acidity was softened and off-set by a bit of residual sugar, giving the Pfaffenberg a rich, voluptuousness with a lasting peach flavor and bitterness.
I enjoyed both of these Rieslings immensely and would have difficulty recommending one over the other. But luckily at this price, which is quite reasonable for this quality of German Riesling, I don’t have to choose.
At Whole Foods on River Street for $18.99 each.
