The L’Aventure Languedoc tasting in April that Glenn and I participated in last month was a fantastic opportunity to get reacquainted with the wines of the Languedoc. One of the things that I took away from that tasting was that there are many great wines – not the rough plonk for which it had developed a bad reputation – being made in the region that are available here at quite reasonable prices. Of the dozens that we tasted, one particular wine really stood out: the 2007 Pierre Gaillard Transhumance. Both Glenn and I stood back and said “wow” and savored the sample. It was concentrated, but elegant, and I made a point to seek it out after the tasting.
With May 3 being Languedoc Wine Day on Twitter (#LanguedocDay), it seemed a perfect time to open this wine. Made by Pierre Gaillard, who is better known for his wines from the northern Rhône, Transhumance is a blend of 50% Syrah, 40% Grenache, and 10% Mourvedre. It is from a small appellation called Faugères, which has soils dominated by schist.
At five years old, it showed little sign of fatigue in the glass with a core of dark purple and lighter violet rim. The first aromas to arise from the wine were stone, dust, and minerality. This was followed by dark cherry, a bit of blueberry, leather, and smoke. Cherry jam, cocoa, and spice on the palate. While the acidity gave Transhumance a zippy freshness, the velvety tannins were rather light and short-lived. Spice and heat on the finish. Very good.
At The Vin Bin for $29.99.
by glenn and katrin on May 2, 2012
Languedoc – L’Aventure Languedoc
Languedoc , including Roussillon, is the largest wine producing region of not only France, but the world. However, only lately have sales of the region’s wines seen an uptick due to the increasingly favorable perception of the region. Though there have always been producers of quality wine here, the majority of wine was often poor plonk, much of it destined for the European wine lake. Now the situation is improving. Growers and winemakers, seeing the implications for them of the growing international wine trade, have started to turn the region around. Languedoc wines are both accessible and good value – key selling points for American wine buyers. To further promote the improved quality of Languedoc AOC wines, CIVL, the trade council representing these wines, is presenting for the first time L’Adventure Languedoc, a series of events for both consumers and the trade across the US. In Boston, the event was held at the Boston Conference Center, a wonderfully refurbished venue at the end of the Boston Fish Pier.
Since I’m a fan of the Piquepol grape, I was more than happy to have the opportunity to taste a variety of offerings from the appellation, Picpoul de Pinet, where the grape plays a starring role. The wines ranged from ultra racy to rich and full-bodied. My favorite of the lot was the 2010 Paul Mas Estates Picpoul de Pinet Grand Vin de Languedoc. In anticipation of summer, we zoomed in on rosés; my favorite the 2011 Château Sainte Eulalie Plaisir d’Eulalie Minervois. As for reds, I favored wines where Syrah was the dominant varietal. I thoroughly enjoyed the 2007 Pierre Gaillard Faugères Transhumance from the noted M. Gaillard, a vigneron based in the Northern Rhone but who now has a domaine in Languedoc. Also outstanding was the 2009 Hecht and Bannier Minervois. Katrin’s top five, in no particular order, were the 2009 Chateau Sainte Eulalie Minervois la Liviniére La Cantilene; the 2010 Paul Mas Estates Picpoul de Pinet Grand Vin de Languedoc; the 2007 Pierre Gaillard Faugères Transhumance; the 2011 Cave de Pomerols 100% Syrah – Sud de France Rosé; the 2011 Castelmaure Corbières Rosé.
Loire – Loire Valley Wines
The Loire Valley is no longer terra incognita to American wine buyers. Wines that have long been popular in France – Loire wines are the mainstay of the cartes de vin in French bistros – are now appreciated here and more easily found than ever. These wines represent a multitude of both white and red varietals and styles – racy or full-bodied whites, light or hearty reds, rosés both dry and off-dry and sparklers. Literally, in the Loire, there is something for every taste.
Like last year, the Loire Valley Wines trade show was held at the EMC Club at Fenway Park. Understandably, the venue competed with the wines, even more so since it was the day before the home opener. Yet, we were able to focus on the task at hand. First off, if ever we regretted not having an importer’s license, it was at this event. Most of the wines had no Massachusetts importers. And since we were merely press, our praise for the participants’ wines was faint indeed. We tasted racy Sauvignon Blancs with wonderful grapefruit zip; an obscure but delicious white varietal – Romorantin; both delicate Pinot Noirs and more robust iterations of this grape; spot-on renditions of Cabernet Franc; and sparkling Cremants de Loire that rivaled some Champagnes. We could taste but couldn’t buy out in the real world and consequently felt that we wouldn’t recommend wines unavailable in Massachusetts. Hopefully, some of these good quality wines found an importer and will be available in the future. At some point, we grabbed a glass of a particularly toothsome Cab Franc to savor and made our way to the outside seats to contemplate the Old Ballyard.
An interesting aspect of the show was the prominence – at least it seemed to us – of off-dry rosés. I initially felt this inclusion was misguided – Americans want dry wines. But do they? With the recent emergence of Muscat/Moscato, perhaps these rosés represent an emerging trend. And frankly, as one who doesn’t fear sugar, I found several quite captivating, perfect summer aperitifs.
Contemplating the Old Ballyard
by katrin on December 12, 2011
Not impossible at all!
When my mother told me that for Sunday dinner she would be making Sauerbraten with dumplings, one of my favorite German dishes, I knew I would have to dig deep in the cellar to find the perfect white wine. In the past, my choice of white wine has raised eyebrows in my family. Yes, Sauerbraten is a dish made with beef. But to me, the vinegar-based marinade in which it sits for several days before cooking and the addition of raisins and cream in the cooking process have this savory-sweet-sour dish calling out for a rich white wine with good acidity and fruit. And so it was that I chose a Domaine Belleville from Burgundy’s Côte Chalonnaise, the Rully appellation, to be precise.
Stone fruit, lime, vanilla, honey, and a light nuttiness on the nose. The fruitiness of the peaches and citrus flavors are complemented by the oak’s rich vanilla and warm oak. While the minerality is a bit more subtle here than in some other Burgundies, it helps to define the wine on the palate and in the finish. A long, evolving finish that is starting to show some hints of age and oxidation. Even so, at five years old, this wine is still developing, and its fresh acidity tells me that it will likely still be very good in a couple of years.
Since it had been in my cellar for a while, I couldn’t remember what I had paid for the Domaine Belleville. When I finally found my notes, I could hardly believe that this great Burgundy was only $16.99 when I purchased it nearly three years ago. It is worth every penny… and then some!
At Gordon’s Fine Wine for $16.99.
by katrin on September 25, 2011
“It’s kind of like crack,” remarked Kerri Platt, owner of the North End’s The Wine Bottega, when she saw me examining the Clos Cibonne Tibouren rosé. I wasn’t sure whether to run like hell or to buy it and immediately open it. I opted for the latter. After all, I couldn’t resist this unusual rosé produced from the Tibouren grape (how often do you hear of that?) and aged on its lees in 100 year old foudres for a year. During that year, a fleurette, or film of yeast, develops on top of the wine, similar to what happens to a vin jaune from Jura or with the flor on a fino Sherry.
The first thing you notice with this wine is the unique color, which is a lovely rusty pink. I’m afraid my photo does not do it justice. Since it is a rosé, I chilled it and served it cold, like a regular pink. But served too cold, the Clos Cibonne is closed and tight and does not reveal much of its character. I found it best served between refrigerator and room temperatures, which allows the nose, and particularly the palate, to open. The Clos Cibonne is not at all fruity, but rather entices with the results of its unusual vinification and ageing. It is nutty and slightly earthy. On the palate, there is a lovely softness that is slowly replaced by a crescendo of acidity.
While it’s not quite crack, this is an intriguing wine well worth seeking out.
At The Wine Bottega for $27.00.
by katrin on September 7, 2011
Chateau Guiraud is better known for producing Sauternes, the highly-prized, Botrytis-blessed sweet wine. While Le G is anything but sweet, this blend of 80% Sauvignon Blanc and 20% Sémillon is a fantastic example of a dry, white Bordeaux that is perfectly suited for a range of foods. The nose is bright and brings to mind one of Sauvignon Blanc’s classic descriptors – gooseberry – as well as a bouquet of herbs. The color green comes to mind, not because it is unripe, but because herbs and gooseberries elucidate an image of bright green. The palate is full of grapefruit and herbs, with some faint honey notes. Though I had braced myself for an intensely acidic mouthfeel, Le G has only medium acidity – the acidity off-set, no doubt, by the addition of Sémillon, a bit of age, and the fact that the wine was aged for six months on its lees. Le G finishes with some bitterness and a lasting white grapefruit and herb impression.
At Wine Library for $15.98.
by glenn and katrin on June 13, 2011
Françoise Roure and Julien Brocard raise a glass to Chablis
Julien Brocard, President of the Chablis Commission, is on a mission of market expansion and consumer education. With the assistance of Françoise Roure, Marketing and Communication Manager for Bourgognes, he embarked on a quick tour of the States to promote Chablis. Traveling to five cities and then on to three other countries, he and Françoise have been hosting intimate tastings with those people – sommeliers, restauranteurs, wine retailers, wine writers – deemed influential in disseminating wine knowledge. We at Wine Dine With Us – who consider Chablis to be Chardonnay at its finest – were privileged and honored to be invited to taste Chablis with M. Brocard.
While the name Chablis is recognized by many, the particulars of the region and its wines are not. In a marketing scam, California, as many may recall, did the wine public a great disfavor by naming some of its wines for famous European appellations. Chablis is not a generic white wine from California, but a white wine of distinction from the Chablis region of France. And Julien is intent on getting this vital fact out beyond the cadre of wine lovers already in the know and to the wider wine drinking public. Chablis – termed “the French chic” by the Chablis Commission – is a wine, albeit stylish, for all occasions. With four appellations distinguishing quality, flavor profile, and price, the wine enhances all occasions from the quotidian to the most special. As aperitif or partner with cuisine, Chablis can provide the appropriate wine.
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by glenn on November 5, 2010
Each semester, Lifelong Learning of Boston University presents a series of seminars in the arts and culinary arts. The seminars in the food arts are often presented by the faculty of the various culinary and wine programs at BU. One such is presenter is Bill Nesto M.W., an instructor on the faculty of the Elizabeth Bishop Wine Resource Program. I was fortunate to have had Bill as an instructor when I was enrolled in the wine program and continue to enjoy his classes when taking one of his seminars through Lifelong Learning. The range of Bill’s topics is great – not only is he a wine instructor, he’s also a wine writer and travels extensively broadening his scope of wine. These travels become the basis of his presentations – last year his subject was Spanish Rioja and now this year Bordeaux Superieur. So there I was once again back in school with Bill. [click to continue…]
