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DINING

The Burger Chronicles Goes Upscale with the Bristol Lounge’s Eponymous Burger

by katrin on March 30, 2012

I was delighted to say yes when Glenn asked me if I wanted to do a guest post for his “The Burger Chronicles” series.  While the revelation that “pink slime” is an ingredient in many ground beef products has severely reduced my desire for burgers, Glenn assured me that the Bristol Lounge in the Four Seasons Hotel would be a safe bet. After all, they are known for grinding their own meat. And at $21, one should not expect any less!

I was actually happy that my lunch had been a light mesclun salad and that I had the appetite to indulge in this generously-sized burger with fries. The presentation is wonderful – on one side is the open burger with ample cheese melted over the top and on the other is leafy Boston lettuce and fresh red tomato.  The other half of the plate was taken up with truffled shoe string French fries with parmesan cheese. The combination of the aromas from the truffle and the burger enticed me to dive right in.

Menu Description
The Bristol Burger, Char-Grilled, Vermont Cheddar Cheese, House-Made Pickles, Truffle French Fries

Pros

  • Juicy, well-seasoned meat.
  • Cheddar cheese added a perfect hint of sharpness.
  • Fresh lettuce and tomato. Often the former is wilted and the latter, particularly out of season, is mealy. That’s not the case here.
  • The most incredible fries ever. Sometimes when a menu items says “truffle” the actual dish seems to have been merely grazed by truffle oil. The Bristol Lounge’s fries have a deep truffle flavor, accented by finely shredded parmesan cheese.
  • The most civilized settings in which to enjoy a burger in Boston, accompanied by world class service.

Cons

  • I had ordered the burger medium. It was not nearly the right temperature.  I would guess it was medium-rare at best.
  • The top of the bun held up well, but the bottom, pardon the expression, fell out.  The bottom became soggy quite quickly, which was not helped by the juiciness of the medium rare meat.

Overall rating: A-
The temperature and bun issues might have resulted in a lower rating, perhaps a B+ or even a B, but the flavor and the awesome fries lifted my overall assessment. This is a very satisfying meal. I definitely see myself returning for the Bristol Burger, but when I do, I’ll be very specific about the temperature.

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He Said, She Said – Sweet Caroline’s in the Fenway

by glenn and katrin on March 9, 2012

Part of the occasional series The Fenway: One Bite at a Time

The sketchy signage

Katrin – Located at 1260 Boylston Street, just one block from Fenway Park, Sweet Caroline’s is in a space that has been home to some rather short-lived restaurants and bars in recent years, including a chicken wing place and a Mexican cantina. Every time I pass it and see the flimsy banner tied over the entrance I wonder if the owners are expecting Sweet Caroline’s to meet the same fate and have decided not to invest in more permanent signage.  By virtue of a menu laden with burgers and simple comfort food, a lengthy beer list, and the wall of flat-screen TVs, Sweet Caroline’s is clearly geared toward the crowds that gather before Red Sox games to eat and drink and to the ticketless who are not members of Jerry Remy’s Season Pass club across the street. With the Red Sox’s epic fail and subsequent short season, September 2011 must have been an inauspicious time to open such an establishment if ever there was one. But with a Groupon burning in my wallet and knowing that the restaurant had several months to work out the kinks, Glenn and I decided to give yet another Fenway sports bar a try.

Glenn – I arrived before Katrin and immediately was impressed with the lay out of the bar and restaurant. The lower level comprises the dining area – no TVs – and the upper level the bar – mucho TVs. The decor features wood in various warm tones offset by stone accents. The focal point is the wonderful large vertical garden occupying one wall of the dining area, an installation resembling either a “Jeff Koons goes minimalist” piece or a Hans Hacke system. While waiting, I checked out the cocktail menu – many contemporary “martinis”; the wine list – suitable only for the most casual of wine drinkers; and finally the beer list – draft and cans. I chose the Magic Hat Spring Seasonal “Vinyl Lager” – good but not as compelling as Sam Adams most current lager, “Alpine Spring”.

Katrin – Glenn and I opted to go on a Wednesday night, because the bar offered Wine Flight Wednesdays. Unfortunately, they had discontinued it. Not that it was much of a loss as the wine list was about as pedestrian and uninteresting as it gets.  Despite the lack of good wine choices, I did end up ordering a glass of the Cupcake Malbec. This was only after a failed attempt to order a Negroni. After looking up the recipe and searching the liquor bottles, our bartender reported that the bar doesn’t stock Campari. (Seriously? What kind of a bar doesn’t carry Campari?) As for the food, it should be passable for the suburbanites with Applebee’s-trained palates heading to the “big city.” I ordered the steak tips, which were served lukewarm and had a weirdly sweet and unappealing marinade. The sweet potato fries were tasty, but limp and almost mushy. The house-made onion rings, however, were crisp and well-made.

Steak tips and the notable onion rings

Glenn – A good portion of the menu of the menu is devoted to salads – four small salads and six large salads – all of which can be enhanced with various meats. I guess these provide a healthy option for those not following the “off to hell-in-a-handbasket” burger diet. As an adherent of the latter, I chose the bleu cheese burger described thusly -

“Hand stuffed with bleu cheese, topped with caramelized onions, mushrooms and smoked bacon on a grilled bulkie roll 11.99″

Pros – generously sized = good value; sturdy bun; tasty onions and mushrooms; bacon cooked the way I like it – not too crisp. Cons – the burger was not stuffed with blue cheese ; the cheese came atop; wrong temperature – I specified medium rare, it arrived medium to medium well; the burger was somewhat dry. My overall assessment - B-. I also ordered the sweet potato fries – tasty but limp. I’m sometimes nostalgic for the days when MacDonalds fried their frites in lard.

The decent bleu cheese burger

Katrin – In this time of interconnectedness and viral information distribution, Sweet Caroline’s has managed to do something I find remarkable: it has almost no on-line buzz. I couldn’t help but compare it to Sweet Cheeks Q, which opened shortly after Sweet Caroline’s did just a couple of blocks down Boylston Street. It may be an unfair comparison given that powerhouse Tiffani Faisson is behind Sweet Cheeks Q, but a quick look shows Sweet Cheeks Q with 159 Yelp reviews, 13 Urban Spoon reviews, 20 Google reviews, and nearly 1200 Twitter followers. In contrast, Sweet Caroline’s has only 31 Yelp reviews, no Urban Spoon reviews, 3 Google reviews, and a not even 120 Twitter followers (this could in part be due to the fact that their account – @sweet_crln – is almost impossible to find unless you are on their website). But reviews aren’t everything, right?

Sweet Caroline's on Urbanspoon

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He Said, She Said Goes East (by Northeast)

by glenn and katrin on November 21, 2011

Katrin: Tucked away in a small storefront near Inman Square, East by Northeast has quickly been developing a reputation as one of Greater Boston’s best Asian fusion restaurants. Chef and owner Phillip Tang has received great press since opening in 2010 and we were eager to check it out. Yes, it took a Rue La La offer to push us over the edge, but that may not be such a bad thing as it partially redeemed the concept of group buying after our disappointing Tico/Living Social experience this summer.

The space is warm and intimate with only 20 seats at tables and four stools at a bar near the kitchen. Through the partly open curtain, diners can see Chef Tang and his small staff working feverishly in the kitchen. The wait staff is friendly, welcoming, and attentive.  After we were seated and had ordered drinks, our table quickly started filling up with offerings from the kitchen, which were served tapas style and meant to be shared.

Glenn: After our diappointing experience at Tico, I was a bit apprehensive about dining again in conjunction with an online “deal”. As we were being seated, I began quizzing Katrin if she had informed our server that we were dining à la Rue La La. She assured me that all would be fine and, as our dining adventure turned out, it was.

I had been intrigued by Chef  Tang’s concept – modern Chinese-inspired cuisine (East) paired with local (Northeast) produce. The dishes we were presented with exemplified the strength of this concept.

Katrin: Glenn and I both started with a cocktail from the menu, which features house-made mixers and soda. The Hendrick’s Gin with cilantro lime soda was perfectly delicious – light and crisp with bits of fresh cilantro – even if it was a bit easy on the gin. Glenn’s Elijah Craig 12 yr. Bourbon was topped with spiced cola and had both of us reminiscing about some of our earliest, and not necessarily best, drinking days. The biggest negative at East by Northeast is the wine list. I would have liked a glass of wine with dinner, but the choices were very limited and the already short list of wines offered only 4 options for ordering by the glass.

Glenn: My cocktail was outstanding! Cocktails here are chef -driven. For example, for my coctail – #2 on the menu – the chef creates a cola base by infusing spices in a simple syrup; house made club soda is added when the cocktail is made. And yes – the libation inspired a bit of nostalgia. Once upon a time, I had been a fan of So(uthern) Co(mfort) and coke. My predilection for the drink ended after an evening of overindulgence and the inevitable unpleasant aftermath of being prostate at the porcelain altar. In light of that experience, even though my cocktail was superb, I limited myself to one. While the wine list is short, the beer list is not. With nearly 2 dozen craft offerings, beer would seem to be the way to go. And perhaps that is the best option with Asian cuisine?

Katrin: Overall, the dishes were flavorful and fresh. I would definitely return for the Smoked Bluefish Salad, sautéed Brussels sprouts, the Fried Squash Sticks, and the Hake Balls. My least favorite dishes were the Wonton and the Beef Cheek Congee.

Glenn:I find a certain energy in small storefront venues of emerging chefs – there can be a focus of energy in offering well turned out food. The Tofu with Butternut Squash was deeply flavored; the Hake Balls were wonderfully “fishy”; the Oxtail was meltingly delicious; and the Coconut Panna Cotta – not too sweet and delicately and properly set – was a fine ending to what turned out to be a feast. My fear of online deals had been laid to rest.

celery root soup

edamame salad, mustard greens, apple, lemon ginger vinaigrette

sauteed brussels sprouts, smoked shiitake mushrooms, onion confit

house smoked bluefish salad, breakfast radish, celery root, romaine, sesame horseradish sauce

hake balls

fried sweet potato sticks

daikon dumplings

fresh chinese sausage, apple butter, celery root and apple slaw, toasted sesame bun

beef short rib congee, marinated turnips and radish, local greens

braised oxtail, short rice noodles

coconut milk panna cotta, poached pears, toasted coconut

East by Northeast on Urbanspoon
East by Northeast on Urbanspoon

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He Said, She Said – At the Table with Robert Sinskey at UpStairs on the Square

by glenn on May 19, 2011

The Menu

Anjou Pear & Fennel Salad

Endive, Slivered Almonds – Almond “Cream”

2009 Abraxas, Vin de Terroir, Scintilla Sonoma Vineyard

Thai Chili Dusted Grilled Shrimp

Young Coconut Milk Shooter

2009 Pinot Blanc, Los Carneros

Locally Foraged Mushroom Risotto

Jamón Serrano, Pea Tendrils & Pecorino Romano

2009 Pinot Noir, Los Carneros

2007 3 Amigos Pinot Noir, Los Carneros

Fire Roasted Ribeye

Sweet Balsamic Marinated Grilled Peppers & Onions

2006 P.O.V. Red Blend, Los Carneros

GLENN -When we at Wine Dine With Us began our wine odyssey, we were very much taken with wine dinners – an event which would match the cuisine of a chef with the wines of a winemaker with a presentation and meet-and-greet by and with that winemaker. We attended some memorable events – a chocolate dinner at Sel de la Terre Long Wharf with wines chosen by the knowledgeable and entertaining sommelier Erik Johnson and a dinner at the now-only-a-memory Excelsior with Argentine master, Santiago Achaval of Achaval-Ferrer. However, at some point, we came to separate our passions for food and wine. We would attend wine-centric events – expos, trade tastings, roundtables –  and events where food was the focus – supper clubs, Mystery Meets, pop up restaurants. Recently, though, we returned to our earlier passion and attended a bonafide ” wine dinner.” “At the Table” is a wine dinner series at UpStairs on the Square that brings together winemakers and winery owners with patrons of the restaurant with cuisine provided by chef  Steven Brand.  On May 17th, the restaurant hosted a dinner with Robert Sinskey of Robert Sinskey Vineyards, a leading force in the biodynamic movement in California. The evening was entitled “Biodynamic Bliss!”

KATRIN – My visit to Robert Sinskey Vineyards was the highlight of a trip to Napa Valley a couple of years back, and I continue to be fascinated by his outstanding wines, which are certified organic and biodynamic.  Biodynamics, which is a philosophy founded by Rudolf Steiner in the early 1900s, provides a framework for viticulture based on the belief that vineyards are ecosystems and the movement of the moon and planets should dictate decisions in the vineyard. Some people think it’s voodoo, but the proof is in the quality of the wines made from grapes harvested from biodynamic vineyards. I have found these wines, including Sinskey’s to be lively and complex.

GLENN – Yes,  bliss it was – eventually. The evening did get off to an inauspicious start for there was a boisterous crowd in the adjoining room having a celebratory reception. Actually, we were only separated from them by folding French doors. Being able to hear Robert Sinskey talk about his start as a winemaker through his father and his wines was difficult. Fortunately, the crowd left before the second course, though an occasional person would wander through the dining room looking for the party that had moved on. Though the menu was appealing with courses featuring contrasts of texture and taste and competently executed – with the exception of the shrimp which, for me, were overcooked - it was the wines which were the highlight of the evening. I did appreciate the curried chicken salad filled profiteroles passed during the reception and the warm madelines passed at the meal’s end.

KATRIN - After hearing many rave reviews, I looked forward to my first meal at UpStairs on the Square.  It was just so-so, at best, with the high point being the tasty curried chicken salad profiteroles.  Granted the bar had been set high recently from dining experiences ranging from T. W. Foods to Will Gilson’s pop-up restaurants.  The lowest point for me was the rib eye that had an awful smoke-flavor (which taunted me for many hours afterward). While the caramelized garlic custard somewhat redeemed the dish, the marinated pepper and onions added little.

GLENN – The Abraxas, modeled on the Alsatian wine that blends the four noble white Alsatian grapes (47% Pinot Gris, 23% Riesling, 17% Gewurztraminer, 13% Pinot Blanc), was the perfect wine to start the evening. The P.O.V, a Merlot-dominant Bordeaux blend was perfect with the ribeye. Yet the wine that was most stellar for me was the 3 Amigos Pinot Noir. Restrained and elegant, beautifully showing its terroir, I wish I had a case in my cellar so I could taste its further evolution.

KATRIN - Each of the five wines served had incredible character. They make me want to sit with them and enjoy them fully.  I tweeted during the dinner that I wanted to “snuggle” with them.  Perhaps that’s too intimate a thought, but nevertheless true.

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He Said, She Said – Mystery Meet Pig Roast at Citizen Public House

by glenn on May 11, 2011


 

~ THE MENU ~
 

SHELLFISH STARTER – BLUE POINT OYSTERS, LITTLENECK CLAMS, COCKTAIL SHRIMP 

ROAST SUCKLING PIG  WITH MINTED SAUSAGE STUFFING 

ROASTED RED BLISS POTATOES 

GRILLED ASPARAGUS  

MAC AND CHEESE 

BLUE CHEESE BRIOCHE PUDDING 

♥ ♥ ♥ ♥ ♥ 

GLENN – Accompanied by a soundtrack that was an homage to 90s grunge, this Mystery Meet was gustatory, lively, communal and increasingly boisterous as the evening progressed. (The cocktails did flow.) In short, it was everything a pig roast should be. When Katrin and I decided we would host a Mystery Meet, we wanted a signature event. When we learned, even before its opening, that Citizen Public House would be offering a pig roast, we knew we had found a venue for our unique dining experience. Trying to schedule the event around the Red Sox home schedule took some doing, but Seth Resler, Mystery Meet impresario, was finally able to secure a date. So on May 10th, a group of adventurous food lovers sat at table for this most earthy and celebratory of feasts. 

KATRIN - I’m surprised (and disappointed) that the soundtrack did not include Nine Inch Nails’ contemporaneous “Piggy.”  The lyrics (“Hey pig. Yeah, you. Hey pig piggy pig pig pig… ) rattled around in my brain all through dinner and even the next day. 

GLENN - I must admit that attending a pig roast had not been part of my culinary CV. This was my first and I was impressed with the food and the way in which it was presented. We started with shellfish and then out came the pig – whole and uncarved. Oohs and  ahs and much picture taking ensued. The pig was then whisked away. 

KATRIN – Ray, who was seated at our end of the table, suggested that a name would be appropriate for our pig.  He was thinking Frank, but to me he looked more like Thomas.   

GLENN - The sides arrived and the pig reappeared – carved up and ready to be feasted upon. And feast we did!  After a while, the food was cleared and the head was served along with the kidneys. And as R. Crumb once observed, “The head’s always best.” And, yes, pork brain does taste like paté. And since Citizen is a hip kind of place, they have that “love-it-or-hate-it” Italian digestif, Fernet Branca, on tap. Though the taste has been unkindly described as “black licorice-flavored Listerine”, many of these adventurous Mystery Meeters finished the meal with a shot to their good health. 

KATRIN – A couple of guests commented that while the cocktails were imaginative and the whiskey list comprehensive, the wine list – particularly those served by the glass or half-carafe – was short and limited. While I agree that it could be more extensive, both Glenn and I found interesting selections. We started with the crisp and fruity Miner Family Vineyards Rosato, a rose of Sangiovese. With dinner we both chose a glass of Robert Foley Charbono. Charbono is thought to be the California name for Argentina’s popular Bonarda varietal. 

 

GLENN – My two parting shots. First, as someone who lives for his palate, I always appreciate the excellence of a dish and the blue cheese brioche pudding just stopped me cold – I became positively meditative as I savored each extremely rich mouthful. And secondly, Ryan, our server, was outstanding. He functioned not only as our capable server, but also as our gracious emcee for the evening. 

 

KATRIN – Waitstaff can sometimes make or break an evening out. And we were lucky to have Ryan as our server again on this visit.  He is both laid-back and very attentive to details and the needs of the group. So, thanks, Ryan, and everyone at Citizen for making this a culinary delight. And of course, many thanks to Seth for organizing from afar! It may sound self-serving, but I really do think that this was one of the best Mystery Meets yet! 

See more photos from the pig roast on our Facebook page. 

 Citizen Public House and Oyster Bar on Urbanspoon

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He Said, She Said: Mystery Meet 9 at the Back Bay Social Club

by katrin on March 10, 2011

KATRIN: I was elated when I learned that, after two dinners in Cambridge, Mystery Meet would be returning to Boston with a dinner at the Back Bay Social Club (BBSC). Several on-line reviews had mentioned how nice the décor is, but personally I could not get images of the space’s former tenant, Vinny T’s, out of my mind. (Yes, I will confess that I did eat at Vinny T’s once or twice!) The saloon level is a mish-mash of looks – a handsome curved mahogany bar, tin ceiling, giant  sign pointing down to the restaurant level, and random photos hanging about. Add the baggy plaid shirts that the wait staff wear and you have homage to 1992 grunge along with “1960s Manhattan.”

The bar was crowed, but we made our way in to get a couple of cocktails. BBSC is building a reputation for well-made cocktails, including some updates of almost forgotten classics. Glenn and I had a Negroni and the Blood & Sand respectively. Both, in my opinion, were watery and on the expensive side. After getting our drinks, General Manager, Johna, came over and warmly greeted us. Her welcoming manner and friendliness helped to overcome my not-so-positive impressions of the cocktails and décor.

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He Said, She Said – EatBoston Pop-Up at Taza Chocolate Factory

by glenn on February 13, 2011

Fortunately Mylar Balloons were not part of the Evening

GLENN – I was a bit apprehensive about this one. I had first learned that the pop-up would be at Taza Chocolate Factory - intriguing  location. But then I found out that it would be on Valentine’s Day weekend and feature a chocolate-influenced menu. This gave me pause. As an avowed bachelor, occasional misanthrope and with an allergy to the maudlin and sentimental in American consumerist culture, Valentine’s Day is anathema. Would there be centerpieces with cupids and red heart-shaped Mylar balloons floating above the tables? Would I feel, as Anaïs had, like ”a spy in the house of love”? I knew that the food would be good but the enjoyment of it depends to an extent upon context. And just what would the context be? [click to continue…]

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The Bliss Factor: The Magic of Pairing Wine and Oysters

1 February 2011

Rodney and I were more than delighted to accept a recent invitation to a seminar exploring “The Bliss Factor” of the perfect food and wine pairing. Held at Jasper White’s Summer Shack in Boston on January 27, the seminar featured two wineries and an expert on oysters from around the world.
I have to admit that [...]

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A Tasting Journey at L’Espalier

6 January 2011

Each year, I cannot wait for the holidays to be over. Overdecorated trees, the endless drone of Christmas and snow-related songs, and the pressure of finding the perfect gift are just too much. An annual highlight in the midst of the misery is enjoying a luxurious lunch with two of my colleagues. Though traditionally we [...]

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Mystery Meet at Myers + Chang – He Said, She Said

11 August 2010

Image via Wikipedia

Katrin: Glenn and I had such a great time at the first Mystery Meet at Ten Tables that we were quite eager to attend the second one regardless of the location that Seth Resler had chosen.  Of course we were also excited to find out where it would be. Ten Tables would be [...]

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