by glenn on December 19, 2011
I’d won a contest.
The email notification read,
”Hi Glenn,Congrats! You’ve got yourself a seat at our Mac n’ Cheese Tasting/Pairing at Church THIS Friday, 12/16 .”
Awesome.
I”d come across the contest sponsored by Google Places while reading a post on Just Add Cheese. I entered with no intention of winning. But I did. I’ve dined at Church before and was eager to return. Chef de Cuisine Jon Gilman does “creative comfort food” and as daylight becomes scarce and the temperature dips, I need to be comforted and what better way than with Mac’n’ Cheese. In this case, not one but five comforting opportunites.
The Line Up
- Mozzarella, Romano, Basil, Balsamic Tomato Relish
- Pale Ale Vermont Cheddar, Mushrooms, Truffle Oil
- Goat Cheese, Toasted Winter Squash, Spicy IPA Pepitas
- Monterey Jack, Poblanos, Chorizo
- Gorgonzola, Worcesteshire and Stout Glazed Onions, Braised Beef
The evening was hosted by the warm and vivacious Adri Cowan. My fellow diners were an assortment of bloggers – food and otherwise – tweeters, bon vivants and other interesting persons.
- The first – only four more to go!
We were offered a choice of two draft beers from Church’s somewhat limited “on tap” menu. (However, their “by the bottle” selection is quite extensive.) Since the mac’n'cheese dishes were presented in ascending order of culinary weight – light, simple renditions to more complex and hearty – my server recommended I begin with a lighter brew and move on from there. I heeded his advice and begin with a selection from one of my favorite local brewers, the Steel Rail Extra Pale Ale from Berkshire Brewing, and then went on to another local brew, the Ipswich IPA.
This was mac’n'cheese heaven. All Chef Gilman’s renditions were enthusiastically received with the exception of the “Monterey Jack, Poblanos, Chorizo” iteration (too much heat). I really enjoyed the first, “Mozzarella, Romano, Balsamic Tomato Relish – the milkiness of the Mozzarella, the pungent kick from the sheepy Romano and the sweetness of the grape tomatoes. All evening though I was anticipating the final creation, “Gorgonzola, Worcestershire and Stout Glazed Onions, Braised Beef”. And I wasn’t disappointed. Judiciously balanced, it was chock full of umami, beefiness and Blue cheese funk. However, as one of my dining companions stated, it didn’t seem like mac’n'cheese. Yes, it was wonderfully over the top.
I haven’t yet mentioned the extraordinary cocktails at Church. These libations alone are worth the trip to the Fenway. Nor have I mentioned the ambience of Church – not the physical aspects of decor – but the human aggregation. Young professionals, students, punksters and rock’n'rollers plus people of a certain age – comme moi. My tablemates and myself were admiring the sequined shirt of a man in group of middle-aged revelers. Was it new or a keepsake from his disco youth? I would like to think the latter.
Thanks to Adri Cowan and Google Boston, Chef Gilman and Church.
by glenn on December 13, 2011
A most captivating cheese
Typically, when I compose a cheese plate, I chose three different cheeses in order to contrast or compare. I usually begin by deciding which of the cow-sheep-goat trinity to present – one, two or all three. Next, I think about styles – fresh, cooked, aged, washed rind, bloomy rind, natural rind. Seasonality is a further consideration – in spring, a selection of fresh chevres; in winter, perhaps a stinker, a robust blue and one of the incomparable sheep’s milk cheeses from the Pyrennees. Though some may offer “one perfect cheese”,in order to savor a single cheese, that has never been my wont. Until now. At the Holiday Cheese Tasting held recently at Central Bottle and Provision, I was introduced to Harbison from Jasper Hill Farm in Greensboro VT. As cheesemonger Stephanie Santos pointed out to me, the cheese combines the dairy’s Winnimere and Moses Sleeper – banded in spruce like the former, bloomy rind like the latter. The cheese is named after Ann Harbison, one of the leading lights of Greensboro. Since the white paste presents in a near liquid state, the spruce bark band keeps the cheese intact. Though the milk is pasteurized – the cheese is only aged 3-6 weeks - the flavor is rich and herbal. Near the bark band, the flavor woodsy; nearer the center, I detected a pleasant spicy mustard flavor. Whatever lush autumn pasturage the Jasper Hill cows were grazing on this fall, the result are quite excellent. After I purchased the cheese, I kept it at room temperature for eight hours to ensure the cheese’s creamy texture. For serving, I sliced off the top rind – like some Spanish tortas, it should be eaten with a spoon. I served with my favorite crackers – Castleton Crackers Whole Wheat. Harbison is a great addition to any holiday gathering.
After the party's over
Available year round and available now at Central Bottle and Provision
by glenn on December 12, 2011
The season of festivities is underway. Are you hosting a holiday gathering for friends, family, co-workers? Are you experiencing “menu anxiety”? If this be the case, turn to Whole Foods River Street to make your party menu planning stress-free. The store can assist you in designing a menu and even providing beverage selections for all budgets and diet preferences. To showcase its seasonal catering menu, the River St. Market held a Bloggers Holiday Showcase Friday Dec. 12 for Boston-area bloggers.
The evening was hosted by David Remillard – social media person for the River Street market - who was joined by the lovely Claire Davies – social media person from the Fresh Pond store.
We were presented with an array of foods from the store’s various departments. First up, a selection of various themed and priced cheese trays; since every party needs a liquid component, a wine and beer station; next, a variety of hot appetizers, including vegetarian options; then, seafood appetizers which featured – for me at least – the winning hors d’ouevre of the event, house-smoked baby octopus tossed with agave syrup and cayenne – a perfect item for any Feast of Seven Fishes; and since no event is complete without dessert, a selection of petit pastries from the Whole Foods Bakehouse. To provide additional merriment to the evening, we were invited to participate in a store-wide scavenger hunt – the inducement a $150 prize. To complete the affair, we were given gift bags as we departed. Upon arriving home, I was pleased to find among the thoughtful items a box of truffles. How long will I be able to resist them? And should I even try?
And me being me – and not Manny – I positioned myself between the cheese station and the beverage station. The wines featured both reds and whites and covered a range of price points. At the “extreme value” end were two selections from the Whole Foods proprietary label “Three Wishes”. Mid-range in the line up were a cava and one of my favorite Loire Valley whites, the 2009 Cave de Saumur “Les Pouches”. The selection was topped off by my fave of the offerings, the 2009 Bodega Bernaveleva Navaherros, an old vine Garnacha, organic and biodynamic. The one beer being poured was the Peak Organic Winter Session Ale. This tasty wheat beer, like any good session beer, was easy drinking. And at 5% ABV, it won’t threatened to ruin the party with overly boisterous behavior. Yet what impressed me most was its compatibility with the cheeses. Too often, folks try to do a wine and cheese match up, when beer is the better partner.
The Everyday Value cheese platter
And finally, the pièce de resistance, the cheese displays. Nationally, Whole Foods has a strong cheese division. Cathy Strange, Global Cheese Buyer and past president of the American Cheese Society, has been the force behind the strength, diversity and quality of the cheeses that Whole Foods offers. Their partneship with Hervé Mons – négociant and affineur extraordinaire – is exemplary of their commitment as are their relationships with small producers. On the local level, however, the cheese department shines or not depending upon its Team Leader. At River St., it does, thanks to Mike Clark, Specialty Team Leader. Since his arrival at River St. four years ago, he’s done much to upgrade the cheese selection, presentation and care of the cheeses. Frankly, though, Mike should be entitled “Cheesemonger” since that shows a more appropriate respect for his experience and knowledge. Mike and his staff presented three trays – an 365 Everyday Value platter – which was indeed a good value; a “Local” platter featuring among other items, Great Hill Blue, assorted chevre from Vermont Butter and Cheese, the now ubiquitous but always wonderful Moses Sleeper from Jasper Hill Farm -which, I might add, was quite well ripened - and the Team-made Cheddar – made by members of various Whole Food stores – from Grafton Village Cheese. And lastly, the “Connoisseur” tray with an fine selection of domestic and European cheeses. Also featured were Raincoast Crisps, a great accompaniment to cheese.
It was a great opportunity for Whole Foods River Street to show those who write about food the options that the store offers for easy holiday entertaining.
Many thanks to David Remillard – it was great to see the person behind the tweets!
Cute and delicious - chocolate glazed bite-size brownies topped with buttercream, a strawberry cap and an icing pompom
by glenn on December 5, 2011
As Bubble said to Eddy, “Party, party, party, party”. The end- of- the-year season of celebration is upon us. If you’re hosting a gathering, rather than overly stressing yourself by attempting to recreate the menu at Per Se, relax and offer a few well chosen cheeses and various accoutrements – mostardas, olives, white anchovies, breads. Select wines – or beers - which are cheese-friendly and your menu is complete. Be wary of serving spirits, though! Cocktails+holiday stress=bad behavior. As James Brown said, “Papa don’t want no mess”.
So if you’re shopping for holiday fare, do as I do and head to Central Bottle and Provision to consult with the cheesemongers – not one but two – David Seaton and Stephanie Santos.
To showcase the store’s excellent cheese selection, Central Bottle hosted a tasting on Saturday Dec. 3. The cheesemongers offered seven cheeses for consideration, all first rate and delicious. The selections ranged from fresh cheeses – the visually arresting ash-coated Tronchetto Carbone from Piedmont Italy – to soft, bloomy rind cheeses – such as the superb Moser Cru Blanc from Switzerland – to aged tomme-style cheese – the Springbrook Tarentaise from Vermont – to the requisite blue – an English Stilton. A selection of three or four of these cheeses would make a spectacular holiday spread.
And since beverages complete the menu, Carl Thelander from Ruby Wines was pouring a varied selection of cheese-friendly wines. I particularly liked the 2005 Charles Schleret Pinot Blanc – bright, light-bodied, off-dry, perfect with fresh or soft cheeses; also notable, the 2008 Domaine Cheveau Or Rouge Beaujolais-Villages, suitable for cheeses needing a fruity complement.
Make your holiday party easy and delicious by making your menu cheese-centric. And by the way, cheese makes a great gift for food-loving friends and family.
Cheesemongers David Seaton and Stephanie Santos
The tasting line-up
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Robiola Incavolata, goat’s milk, Piedmont Italy
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Tronchetto Carbone, goat’s milk, Piedmont Italy
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Sage Farm Selection – Sterling and Madonna, goat’s milk, Stowe, Vermont
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Moser Cru Blanc, cow’s milk, Dotzigen, Switzerland
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Harbison, cow’s milk, Greensboro, Vermont
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Springbrook 2 Year Tarentaise, cow’s milk, Reading, Vermont
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Stilton, cow’s milk, Nottinghamshire, England
by glenn on October 17, 2011
Clockwise from left- Hudson Red, Coomersdale, Hubbardston Blue
The weather had been wonderfully unseasonable. A friend from the Rockies had just quit her job and sold her house – she was retired! – and was on a swing through New England to visit family and friends, then on to Block Island for a week long stay. A dinner party – albeit small – was in order. As usual, I brought the cheese and, accordingly, was off to Central Bottle to shop. Cheesemonger David Seaton was still in Sicily working the harvest and crush – an image of Lucille Ball stomping grapes came unkindly to mind - so Chef Leslie aided me in my selections. I decided to go with local cheeses, preferably cheeses I hadn’t encountered before – always that drive for the new and exciting. After the usual back and forth of sampling and discussing, I was able to choose three. All represented different aspects of local pasturage – late spring, high summer and early autumn. My Indian Summer cheese plate….. [click to continue…]
by glenn on August 24, 2011
- From top left clockwise – Vermont Dandy, Verhampshire, Hildene Farms Chevre
Each August, I spend time with a friend at her cottage located in one of the hill towns of Massachusetts. I eagerly anticipate this visit – the evergreen forest, the cool un-airconditioned nights, the ability to clearly see the Milky Way and its billions of stars and foremost, the opportunity to spend time with this friend who lives half a continent away during the remainder of the year. My friend, an ardent cheese lover, always appreciates a gift of cheese. My notion was to compose a cheese plate suitable for breakfast. And as summer was diminishing, I was feeling the urge to make bread. I pulled Rose Levy Beranbaum’s Bread Bible out of my bookcase where it had sat – unused – ever since I acquired it several years ago; I once was a cookbook junkie. I found a wonderful recipe for a cracked wheat loaf – a perfect breakfast bread and accompaniment to my soon to-be-composed cheese plate. As an aside, having baked extensively from Beranbaum’s Cake Bible, I was accustomed to dealing with her self-aggrandizement and often overwrought recipes, for these obsessive-compulsive formulas with near fanatical attention to detail actually work. Moving on, the bread turned out spectacularly though I did skip some steps I found unnecessary. It was now time to assemble the cheese which meant a trip to Central Bottle and Provision and a consultation with cheesemonger David Seaton. As we were catching up on cheese world gossip - such as a recap of the Vermont Cheesemakers Festival; and no, a cheese-themed tattoo is not the best idea for long-term self-adornment – David led me on a tasting of what was new and good in the store. In the end, I did a local trinity – cow, sheep, goat – consisting of two new cheeses and one reliable standby. My summer breakfast cheese selection -
[click to continue…]
by glenn on March 14, 2011
The presenters - Doctor of Mold and Manager of Mold
It was geek night at Central Bottle and Provision – an evening devoted to the microbiology of molds complete with slides and cultures! I was happy. Usually, cheese classes might touch upon the molds that make cheese possible, but the discussion can be cursory. Ditto for cheese books – either they veer towards the coffee-table variety or are geared towards restaurant service. But tonight, the molds had center stage. The class was part of an occasional series on cheese offered by Central Bottle and Provision. Cheesemonger David Seaton and mold expert Benjamin Wolfe PH.D. held forth on the variety of molds in cheese, their role in cheese production and other fascinating aspects of molds. [click to continue…]
The Line Up 
