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Beer

Incidentally – There is Life in Worcester: Armsby Abbey

by glenn on April 24, 2012

 

     

 

Armsby Abbey 144 North Main St. Worcester MA

 

 

 I really don’t mean to sound cheeky – I did live for five years in the belly of the beast (Main South) and visit often – but there is a problem with downtown Worcester – it lacks vitality. Though events happen often at the DCU Center, Mechanics Hall and the Hanover Theater, Downtown remains just a bit forlorn, lacking vibrancy. Enter Armsby Abbey. Established several years ago, this beer hall adds a bit of hip excitement to the Worcester scene. Renowned for an ever- rotating selection of craft beers on tap and a deep cellar of bottled brews, the Abbey is more than just a college hang. After being on my go-to list for years, I finally put in an appearance at the joint. I wasn’t disappointed. The beer choices can seem overwhelming at first; plus the excellent – and extensive – menu of craft cocktails results in near overload. Food here complements the libations – the “Farmhouse” menu focuses on cheese, house-made charcuterie, salads, sandwiches and pizza. (There is no burger option.) Interesting items include roasted marrow bones,  carrot and bacon pizza and pork belly banh mi. Local and house-made are the watchwords. Excellent breads are made by the in-house bakery “Crust”.  The menu, though not extensive, shows  creative touches that would seem more appropriate to Boston. I began my evening with the Signature Manhattan -  Michter’s Rye with Meletti Amaro, Vya Sweet Vermouth, Binaco’s Better Vanilla Bitters and a torched orange peel. Outstanding! and reasonably priced at $10. I next had the well-made and delicious Hudson Red, a raw cow’s milk washed rind “stinker” from Twin Maple Farm in Ghent NY. Since it was Earth Day, the bar was featuring a special menu benefitting the Chef’s Collaborative. I chose the featured entree – lamb ragu with tagliatelle. The suggested pairing was Pretty Things X Ale 1945, the newest release in their “Once Upon a Time” historical beer recreations. The pasta was excellent and should be on the regular menu. The brew, an English Dark Mild Ale, paired well with the dish. Perhaps it had been a busy day but the one problem we encountered was that several items were 86′d. Hopefully this isn’t common practice. Armsby Abbey merits a visit – and since brunch is served here – provides a nice Sunday destination. (And then visit WAM, the Worcester Art Museum, best small museum in New England.) More info, menus and directions here.

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“Cheese + Beer” – Setting the Record Straight at Central Bottle

by glenn on April 6, 2012

From left to right - Greta's Fair Haven, Drunk Monk, Barely Buzzed, Vermont Shepherd, Point Reyes Blue

The Class Pairings 

“Greta’s Fair Haven” – raw goat’s milk, Massachusetts + “Brettanomyces Lambicus“, Germany 

 ”Drunk Monk” – raw cow’s milk, Connecticut + Sierra Nevada “Torpedo”, California (bonus cheese – “Dutch Farmstead”, Connecticut) 

 ”Barely Buzzed” – pasteurized cow’s milk, Utah + “Cody’s Original North Shore Amber Ale”, Massachusetts 

“Vermont Shepherd” – raw sheep’s milk, Vermont + Pretty Things “St. Botolph’s Town”, Massachusetts 

 ”Point Reyes Blue” – raw cow’s milk, California + North Coast “ Old Rasputin”, California 

Cheese and beer? 

Shouldn’t that be cheese and wine? 

The paradigm is cheese + wine = high brow whereas cheese + beer = low brow. Yet the paradigm has become  worn, clichéd, all fusty and so twentieth century. With a burgeoning American artisanal cheese movement  producing cheeses that rival or even surpass those of Europe and a burgeoning American craft beer movement, the time has come to consider cheese and beer as partners for pairing. 

With this intent, Stephanie Santos, cheesemonger, and Dinah MacPhail, beer geek, presented the class “Cheese + Beer” at Central Bottle Wine + Provisions. 

The tasting began with a bloomy rind goat cheese, “Ada’s Fair Haven”, paired with the sour and acidic German Lambic and concluded with the “Point Reyes Blue” paired with the august Imperial Stout, “Old Rasputin”. All cheeses in the tasting were from American producers. Some like the iconic David Major and Vermont Shepherd were in the forefront of the American artisanal cheese movement and others like Beehive Creamery in Utah are relative newcomers. Regardless of the cheesemaker’s tenure, all the cheeses were well crafted and revealed great depths of flavor. Credit must be given to Stephanie Santos who, due to her experience in fine dining, knows when a cheese is perfectly ripe and ready to be savored. With the exception of the Lambic, all brews were American and like the cheeses were made by both pioneers in the craft beer phenomena – Sierra Nevada -  and recently emerging brewers – and local darlings – Pretty Things. Dinah MacPhail’s choices were spot on for the cheeses being tasted. 

During the tasting, both presenters explained their rationale behind each pairings, elaborated on both the cheeses and the beers  and then invited conversation about the match-ups. 

And the verdict? There were converts in the class – beer and cheese ARE made for each other. That lowly ploughman’s lunch – farmhouse cheddar and a pint of bitter – can now be a thing of elevation. As for myself, I was converted awhile ago and it was heartening to see others embrace the idea that cheese and beer can be perfect partners. 

Thanks to both Stephanie and Dinah for presenting such an interesting, informative and well curated class. 

 

All cheeses and brews from the tasting are available at

Central Bottle Wine + Provisions  196 Mass Ave   Cambridge MA 

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Preview: Thanksgiving 2011 Lineup

by eleni on November 22, 2011

Based on the success of last year’s tasting and the disparate group we are at Thanksgiving, I decided we needed another beer tasting this year.

The main dish:

First up, an offering from the new Samuel Adams artisan line: Griffin’s Bow, an oaked blonde barley wine ale.

Maudite

Three Philosophers Belgian Style Blend

And for the IPA drinkers, I’m mixing it up with a black IPA: Otter Creek Black IPA.

For dessert:

  • “Banana Bread”: 75% Wells Banana Bread Beer mixed with 25% Young’s Double Chocolate Stout
  • Samuel Adams The Vixen, a chocolate chili bock.

Of course there will be wine options.

Check back for the results.

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“One Last Fleeting Taste of Summer” – Libations for Your Labor Day Celebration

by Eleni-Glenn-Katrin on August 31, 2011

Looking for beverage suggestions for the upcoming holiday weekend? Here are our recommendations to make your celebration more enjoyable -

Glenn recommends-

As this was the “Summer of Riesling”, I’ve included my current go-to Riesling, the “Girl” having supplanted the lovely “Eroica” which has become too dear for everyday imbibing. Herewith, the 2010 Kung Fu Girl Riesling from Charles Smith, wild child rock’n'roller and star winemaker.  His current enterprise, Charles Smith Wines : The Modernist Project, produces wine for ” the modern wine drinker” by which he means the wines are readily accessible and as such don’t need to be cellared.  This Reisling comes from a single source – The Evergreen Vineyard – in the Columbia Valley AVA. In the nose, lime, acacia, sweet herbs and white peaches; on the palate, fruit juicy, smooth, opening up to a vibrant acidity; a solid mouth-watering finish. And did I mention the dose of minerality? FYI – this is a dry Riesling for those seeking to avoid any sweetness. Available at Whole Foods 340 River St. Camb. MA $12.99.

And since grilling may be the preferred mode of cooking this weekend, I offer this Plonk Pick – the 2010 Labouré-Roi  Pinot Noir. From the south of France, this wine, while it might not showcase Pinot Noir typicity, has much ripe fruit – of the red and black sorts - with a dose of earthiness balanced by decent acidity and some tannins. A great value for the price and a good addition to your holiday beverage menu. Available at Whole Foods 340 River St. Camb. MA $6.99 on sale.

Though some may think that Gin and Tonic is perfect as is, the Tonica al Fresco, a cocktail devised by Dale DeGroff, author of “The Craft of the Cocktail” takes this standard on a holiday spin.  Cynar, an Italian digestif derived from artichoke leaves (!) and orange bitters are added to a G and T  – 3 parts gin – preferably Tanqueray 10 –  to 1 part Cynar in an ice-filled highball glass;  followed by 2 dashes of orange bitters (I use Fee Bros. West Indian Orange Bitters); then topped with tonic water;  finished with a squeeze of a lime wedge. The Cynar and bitters add a depth to the drink that isn’t usually present in a G and T.

Katrin recommends -

My current recommendation is the 2010 Domaine Richou L’R d’Anjou

This is a fantastic wine for that transition time between summer and fall.  I’m not at all ready to give up rosés yet, but want something a bit heartier than some of the delicate sippers I’ve enjoyed all summer.  The Domaine Richou L’R d’Anjou fits the bill perfectly.  Just from the fairly deep magenta tone, you can tell that this blend of 80% Cabernet Franc and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon is not going to be a dainty wine.

Cranberry and raspberry with a strong presence of dried herbs that borders on tobacco leaf, particularly on the palate. Full-bodied, the mouthfeel has great medium plus acidity with just a hint of residual sugar and more tannins than you get in most rosés. Long tight finish that has a lovely stoniness.

At Central Bottle for $17.

In addition, two wines I very much enjoyed this summer -

2009Trivento Amado Sur White

As a big fan of Torrontés, Argentina’s signature white varietal, I have relished the interest that this wine has been receiving of late. It has been great to see the number of wines coming from producers stretching from Salta down to Mendoza expanding on store shelves. There aren’t many blends among them, but the Trivento Amado Sur is an interesting one that combines Torrontés (75%) and Viognier (15%), two very aromatic, floral varietals, with the more malleable Chardonnay (10%).

As I poured the light golden yellow wine into the glass, the aromas lifted out. It was, of course, very floral with rose petal, peach, and orange. On the palate the citrus combined with spiciness. With medium plus acidity and medium body, the floral notes and spiciness are carried through the long finish. As I often do, I tasted the Amado Sur again on the day after I opened it and founded it even more enjoyable. I initially thought that the Chardonnay was just filler to help tone down the characteristics of the Torrontés and Viognier, but what I found on the second day was that those green apple flavors I associate with Chardonnay really emerged and added another dimension to this interesting summer wine.

At Colonial Spirits of Acton for $14.99.

2009 Schloss Vollrads Rheingau Riesling Qualitätswein

Wines of Germany has declared July as the month of “31 days of German Riesling,” and really what could be better in the middle of summer than this lovely and aromatic wine. German Rieslings tend to be low in alcohol, but full of flavor, so you can enjoy an extra glass without having to pay for it in the morning. At 11.5% abv, this Riesling had the highest alcohol level compared to the others in the store.

The Schloss Vollrads comes in an extra fancy fluted bottle secured with a Vino-Seal, which is a glass stopper. This is a beautifully aromatic wine. The nose and palate are filled with peaches, lemon, and lime rind, along with stony minerality and a nice touch of petrol. Just a bit off-dry, but with juicy acidity the Schloss Vollrads is ripe and full. There is a hint of bitterness in the long finish. A perfect wine for a warm summer evening!

At Julio’s Liquors for $15.99.

Eleni recommends-

In Greece, it’s a “green” or a “brown”.  In Egypt, a “Stella” is the leading brand (not Stella Artois).  And in Germany, I just love ordering beer for a crowd and just adding on the factor: “dreimal bier, bitte.”

What better drink to savor the long weekend and to accompany various outdoor parties than a beer.  And instead of bringing the oldies but goodies in the green and brown bottles, why not try a large bottle you can consider sharing (or not), and spark some party conversation.

A Chimay Bleu is a classic and if you can’t find it or don’t want to pay that much for a beer, try another color label Chimay.  They are all delicious.

Heading to Canada for the long weekend?  The Chambly Noire (Black Hat), made in Chambly, Quebec by Unibroue, it is a dark brown “black ale” with notes of wood, coffee, and fruit.  In the mouth, ripe fruit, vanilla, cloves, and chocolate.  A solid choice.  6.2% alcohol.  $6.95 for a 25.4 oz bottle.

Love Chimay or Duvel but want to branch out?  La Divine, made in France, is “delicate” in color and in smell: flowery, fruity, and woody in the nose.  The sweet taste of apples, pears, caramel and spice complement the bitter finish.  A solid offering but it won’t knock your guests’/hosts’ socks off. 8% alcohol. Retail: $9.95 for a 750 ml bottle.

All three selections are conversation worthy.  For a bit more information: http://winedinewith.us/2011/07/14/bastille-day-at-the-bastide/

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Beer in the Afternoon

by eleni on July 28, 2011

 

Firestone Double Jack

Weighing in at 9.5% alcohol the Firestone Double Jack is a delicious Double India Pale Ale.  A golden-amber hue and sweet fruit scent culminatates in a well-balanced bittersweet finish with hints of citrus that is not overwhelmed by its high alcohol level.   

More than ten years has passed since I first visited Firestone and I think I like their beer even better now.  I highly recommend including it on a tour of Santa Barbara area wineries.

$8.75 at Bert’s Better Beers

Affligem Dubbel

This brown ale is a crowd pleaser.  From its champagne style cork to its fruity and yeasty nose, it was unexpectedly bitter and acidic.  Although with some warming it mellowed.  7% alcohol.

$7.75 at Bert’s Better Beers

3 Monts – Brasserie de Saint Sylvestre

Pleased to have finally opened the bottle – similar to the feeling one has when one has finally put together a piece of furniture purchased at Ikea –  this French Bière de Garde  or golden ale sports an inflamed cork with a faux swing top.  Taking my cue from HGTV design shows which come up with hybrid design styles, I will describe it as “barnyard orchard”.  The yeast is also apparent as is the bitterness in the finish.  8.5% alcohol.

$9.95 at Bert’s.

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Flight of Fancy

by eleni on November 27, 2010

Thanksgiving always brings together a miscellaneous group at our house.  Relatives that aren’t really relatives (although they bear striking resemblances), friends, and whomever else we discover who doesn’t have plans.  To keep the younger crowd entertained, I decided to spice things up and try a beer tasting.  I recently discovered Burt’s Better Beers and headed over to see what I could come up with.  The clerk hooked me up with Burt when he heard my plan.  The lineup:

Rogue Juniper Pale Ale (incidentally it’s the “Official Beer of the National Turkey Federation”), Allagash Dubbel Belgian Style Ale (Maine), a “Snakebite” we used Samuel Smith’s Organic Cider with Shipyard Blue Fin Stout, Rogue Chipotle Ale, and Shipyard Smashed Pumpkin.  I decided on the order so blame me if you disagree.  [click to continue…]

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Holiday Dither – 2010 Edition

by glenn on November 17, 2010

 

“The wine world has done a very good job of convincing people that it is the only acceptable beverage for fine dining. And I have to say I do love a nice Langhe Rosso with a great steak. But with everything else, it is time for beer to take its place at the head of the table.”

Randy Mosher, Tasting Beer

Über Biermeister Mosher has thrown down the gauntlet and I pick up the challenge. Rather than dithering about what wine to serve on Thanksgiving, I’ve decided to go “Pilgrim”. No, I’m not reenacting the first Thanksgiving but rather will be serving beer, the libation the Pilgrims drank when they dined with Massasoit and one hundred of his men in the fall of 1621. When the Pilgrims celebated that first Thanksgiving, a traditional English harvest festival, they were most grateful for just having brought in their first crop of barley, the fundamental ingredient of beer. With the potability of water doubtful until the nineteenth century, beer was a necessity. In addition, being grain-based, it provided nourishment. To round out my beverage menu, I include cider, the mainstay of colonial New England. As far as beverages go, I’m making the day unabashedly traditional.

My holiday suggestions – [click to continue…]

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