by katrin on April 22, 2012
One of the reasons I love Pinot Noir is for its pensive qualities, and I feel that a great Pinot needs to be enjoyed in a relaxed and nearly meditative manner. For me, no other varietal conjures that need for quiet. When I first smelled and tasted the 2007 Luca Pinot Noir, my first reaction was that it is both expressive and flashy. But like many well-made Pinot Noirs – and there’s no disputing that Laura Catena makes great wines – there is more here when one takes the time to study it. So beyond the initial aromas of cherry, baking spice, and cedar, the Luca also reveals delicate rose and boiled almond notes. Raspberry and leather dominate the palate. The rather restrained use of French oak barrels (30% new, 70% second use) provides some structure but doesn’t overpower the grapes. Medium body. The tannins are fairly soft and velvety, but the long-lasting acidity carries the red fruit and spice flavors. Very good, and ready for drinking right now.
At Marty’s for $36.99.
by katrin on April 16, 2012
No doubt Mendoza produces some world-class Malbecs and this wine-growing region made it possible for Argentine Malbec to become an international superstar. There are, however, other great Malbec-producing regions in Argentina and one of my favorites is Salta. There are not nearly as many options hailing from this northern corner of the country from which to choose, but one of the best is Bodega Colomé, whose vineyards are planted at an astonishing 7200 – 9600 feet. The 2007 vintage is 85% Malbec , rounded out by Tannat, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah.
There’s a lot going on in this wine. The nose is big and complex: grilled fig, mocha, blackberries, vinyl, and a touch of cassis. On the palate ripe dark berries combine with lots of deep mushroom flavors, bringing to mind umami. Having a few years in the bottle has brought the flavors into harmony with the tannins and acidity. Very nicely balanced and very enjoyable.
About $25 at area wine shops.
P.S. Don’t forget: tomorrow is Malbec World Day!!
by katrin on April 15, 2012
April 17! It’s only two days away! Certainly you have it circled on your calendar as I have on mine; it’s Malbec World Day, a day to celebrate the Malbec grape in all its forms – from its origins in Bordeaux to its home in Argentina. To many of us, Malbec has defined the Argentine wine industry as much as Argentina has defined what we consider to be Malbec today. And so, the first of three Malbec reviews.
Ave is made by world-renown Tuscan flying winemaker Alberto Antonini, who has worked with several Argentine wineries, notably Altos Las Hormigas, but also Nieto Senetiner and Chakana. I have to admit that it was, in fact, his credit as winemaker on the label that ultimately made me choose this bottle from a couple of other similarly priced Mablecs in the store.
Aromas of blackberry, pepper, chocolate, and fig abound. When the wine first hits the palate there is a pop of black licorice followed by figs and plums on the mid-palate, rounded out by mocha and earth. It is intensely flavorful with all of those dark notes lingering a long time in the finish. Medium-minus tannins and acidity, however, make the alcohol (14.7% in the 2008 vintage) feel more intense than I would have liked. The mouthfeel is softer than what I would expect for a wine of this flavor intensity. Lengthy oak aging gives the Gran Riserva a warm, sweet vanilla-oak flavor. Very good.
At Martignetti’s for $22.99.
by katrin on February 12, 2012
With Valentine’s Day just around the corner, you might be thinking about which wine to share with your special someone. Perhaps something sparking comes to mind? Though French Champagne might be the obvious choice, the Reginato “Celestina” rosé from Mendoza is a perfectly romantic alternative.
As is quite typical of rosés made from the Malbec grape, the color of this wine is a stunning, deep pink that is almost red. The initial aromas of yeast and toast are intense. They are backed by ripe red berries and cherry notes, which continue on the palate. The mouthfeel is dry with a moderate acidity that gives it a nice crisp freshness. Made using méthode champenoise, I found the Reginato “Celestina” to be much more like true Champagne than any other Argentine sparkling wine that I have tried to date. And at less than half the cost, it is a perfectly budget-conscious bubbly with which to celebrate. Very good.
At Marty’s for $21.99.
by katrin on January 31, 2012
Saturday was a big night: a celebration with 500 of my organization’s nearest and dearest donors, volunteers, and friends. I had been mulling over the wine selection for weeks, tasting various options with colleagues and on my own, writing about the results, and even getting suggestions from you, our readers. In the end, the selection for the bar during the reception and for the dinner ended up being a sampling of some of my favorite wines of the past year or so that met two qualifications. First, they were within my price range of $16 or less after any discounts. And second, I thought that they would be well-received, in other words, interesting and delicious, but not overly challenging for people who thought they would be able to get a simple choice between a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc and an Australian Shiraz.
In the back of my mind, I know that it’s impossible to please everyone – though I did give it my best shot. So, for those of you who asked, here were my choices. And if you read this space often enough, you may even recognize some of them from recent reviews.
Served during dinner
2009 J. Hofstätter Meczan Pinot Nero (Alto Adige, Italy)
2009 St. Michael-Eppan Pinot Grigio Anger Vineyard (Alto Adige, Italy)
On the bar
2010 L’Ecole No. 41 Sémillon (Walla Walla, Washington)
2009 Josef Leitz “Eins, Zwei, Dry” Riesling (Rheingau, Germany)
2009 Amalaya red blend (Salta, Argentina)
2008 Brancaia Tre (Tuscany, Italy)
Though my obsession with Alto Adige was well-served, it was unintended. My first choice for the dinner red was the August Kesseler Spätburgunder Pinot N (Rheinhessen, Germany), but unfortunately just days before the event, the distributor discovered that they did not have it in stock. In the end, it was a wonderful evening to which, I hope, the wine was a wonderful complement. And in an ideal world, some guests were introduced to a new wine or region that they will explore again.
by katrin on January 22, 2012
Saving the best for last, the final seminar of Saturday’s Boston Wine Expo featured Nora Favelukes of Wines of Argentina presenting on “Argentina: Celebrating Diversity.” The full house was entertained, while also being educated on Argentina’s wine, food, culture, and geography.
A lot has changed in the Argentina wine industry in the past 20 to 30 years. In the 1980s and early 1990s, Nora said that she knew exactly where to look for the Argentine wines: way in the back of the store, on the bottom shelf, covered in dust. Nicolas Catena and the arrival of two international wine consultants, Paul Hobbs and Michel Rolland, changed all that. Their work in modernizing grape growing and winemaking set the groundwork for making wines from Argentina an international sensation.
One of Argentina’s great strengths, which wine enthusiasts around the world are starting to recognize, is diversity; from Salta in the north to Patagonia in the south; altitudes ranging from 1,000 feet to 10,000 feet; incredible microclimates; and a wide range of varietals. Clearly Argentines enjoy their wine; with one of the highest per capita wine consumption rates in the world, Argentina only exports 10-12% of its total production. The rest is enjoyed at home!
We tasted five wines that gave a flavor of the geographic and varietal diversity of Argentina. Nora had selected them based on their availability in the local market and their price to quality ratio.
2011 Michel Torino Estate – Don David Torrontés (Cafayate Valley, Salta)
Beautiful nose of peach pit and white flowers. Very mouthfilling with high acidity, spice, and a long, clean finish.
$16.99
2011 Graffigna Pinot Grigio (Tulúm Valley, San Juan)
Very pale to nearly clear in the glass, the Pinot Grigio was so subtle in comparison to the Torrontés. Ripe with medium acidity.
$13.99
2010 Dante Robino Bonarda (Santa Rosa, Mendoza)
Great smoky nose with a meaty palate. Bonarda like this is a perfect accompaniment to burgers and pizza. I agree with Nora that this is a rustic, but rich example of this varietal.
$12.99
2009 Del Desierto 25/5 Cabernet Franc (La Pampa, Patagonia)
Incredibly unusual nose. Lots of dust and cocoa powder. The palate is intense showing more chocolate notes, spice, and minerality. Medium plus acidity and tannins give this Cabernet Franc great structure.
$14.99
2007 Rutini Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon (Tupungato, Mendoza)
Cassis and dark fruits on nose and palate. This is one intense and very tannic wine. Tight. Bring on the steak!
$16.99
Hopefully, Nora will do a presentation at next year’s Boston Wine Expo. With her passion for Argentine wines, fun presentation style, and infectious laugh, you won’t want to miss it.
by katrin on January 10, 2012
Las Loicas, or "the finches", Cabernet Sauvignon
I am not a big fan of rustic wines that conjure images of horses, hay, and barnyards, and I have wondered if perhaps I lack the patience or the palate for such wines. Upon opening, Las Loicas Cabernet Sauvignon reminded me of being down on the farm. Not all that long ago many Argentine wines smelled and tasted like this. However, in the past 7 to 10 years, Argentine wines transformed from rustic to refined and it has been a while since I have had a wine like this. Nevertheless, I didn’t like it and thus reinserted the cork and set it aside.
The next day I gave it a second chance, and overnight – not unlike the entire Argentine wine industry – it had evolved and improved. The nose had red currant, cherry, mushroom, hints of meat, and pepper. On the palate, cassis and ripe black fruit were rounded out by a little vinyl and cocoa. The oak was subtle, allowing the fruit to shine. Acidity, tannins, and alcohol were very well-balanced and gave the wine a pleasant structure and complexity. A nice, long finish. And certainly a positive point: it’s made from 100% organic grapes.
At Whole Foods in Dedham, Mass. for $15.99.
