Springtime on the High Line

It was just a quick trip into Manhattan. I was visiting friends north of the city and we wanted to re-visit both the High Line and the New Museum. We had toured the High Line shortly after it opened in 2009; ditto for the New Museum. An update was in order. The High Line fascinates me – a derelict elevated railway repurposed into a thriving and beloved urban park. The park – designed in part by Diller Scofidio + Renfro, the architects behind the now iconic ICA in Boston – is unlike any other in America. Imagine walking through a garden thirty feet above the street, passing between and even through buildings. I believe the closest equivalent is in Paris. And as for the New Museum, it never fails to grate and challenge. The exhibit – “NYC 1993″ – chronicles the New York art scene – galleries, exhibits, emerging and established artists – of that year. The highlight of our visit came while we were watching a scatological animatronic sculpture of a father, son and goat – ask no questions – going full throttle when “Mr. 1993″ himself, Bill Clinton, ex-bubba but now quite svelte, stepped off the elevator. Actually, the highlight of the show were three pieces by Felix Gonzalez-Torres - two of his billboard series and a sculpture. Enough culture chatter; what about the food?

On our first visit to the High Line, we had bought grab and go at the Chelsea Market. Now there are food vendors in the park itself. We chose The Taco Truck. The Taco Truck has multiple mobile units, including one in Boston but at the High Line, the wheels are traded in in favor for a seasonal pop-up concession stand. The Taco Truck bills itself as a tacqueria on wheels, utilizing organic and local products when available for its Mexican street cuisine. I chose the Carnitas Michoacan Torta – the pork tender and succulent, perfectly accented with cilantro; the egg bun light and airy yet sturdy enough to hold up to the filling. My beverage, of course, was Mexican Coca Cola, now that’s the real thing.

Carnitas Michoacan Torta

The Taco Truck   Upper Chelsea Market   W.15th & 10th Ave.   NYC

After our brush with culture and celebrity, it was time for an early dinner at Momofuku Ssäm Bar. David Chang, brilliant, creative, slightly crazed, has a number of spots offering his take on Asian cuisine. The Ssäm Bar is a small boîte that shares a long narrow space with Booker and Dax, Chef Chang’s venture into hipster mixology. I began with a cocktail; not just any cocktail but my favorite classic cocktail, The Martinez - granddaddy of the Martini. Being at Momofuku, I felt compelled to order the Steamed Buns – pork belly, hoisin sauce, cucumbers and scallions.  (It had turned out to be a pork-centric day.) They were awesome –  just as I expected them to be.

Pork Belly Buns

Next, from the section of the menu entitled “Off Cuts”, Veal Sweetbreads. The sweetbreads were served atop a smear of goat cheese accompanied by gingered asian pear, almonds and mint. The combination was ethereal: seemingly disparate elements melding into a composition of culinary adventure, genius and taste. (I’m still dreaming about them as I write this.) A fitting end to my day in the city.

Genius Veal Sweetbreads

Momofuku Ssäm Bar   207 2nd Ave. at 13th   NYC

Momofuku means “lucky peach”

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Nevertheless, I gave in. Having enjoyed several bottles of this wine at Grotto, one of my favorite lunch spots when I worked on Beacon Hill, I looked forward to a rich, smoky, and generously fruity Pinot Grigio made from biodynamically-grown grapes harvested from the winery’s Benefizium Porer vineyard.

Unfortunately, the wine was nothing like what I remembered or expected.  A medium to dark yellow in the glass, it lacked aromas, giving off only the vaguest hints of yellow apple and melon. The palate essentially was missing flavor. And, the acidity and structure had vanished, resulting in flabbiness. In short, my rating is poor.

According to the notes on Lageder’s website, “under proper storage conditions, this wine may be cellared for 4 to 6 years.” Too bad this bottle was no doubt a victim of dubious storage conditions and slow sales.

Purchased at Busa Wine & Spirits in Burlington for $23.99.

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 Actually, Chef Sáenz needs no introduction to Boston, having spent time in the kitchens of both Spire and Great Bay.  He then decamped to the Cape and Islands for several seasons, working at The Straight Wharf on the Vineyard and most recently as the opening Executive Chef at Ten Tables in Provincetown. Then it was time to return to the metropolis, landing at LiNEaGe as Chef de Cuisine. Having worked with Jeremy Sewall, chef-owner of Lineage at Great Bay, it was an auspicious opportunity.  To celebrate Chef Sáenz’s arrival, the restaurant in collaboration with Nicole Kanner of All Heart PR threw a media dinner. I was fortunate to be invited. Though Julia may have gotten the food culture ball rolling, Alice Waters added the notion that cuisine should be seasonal and local. And so it is at Lineage: the evening’s menu showcasing the larder of our New England spring. We began with a welcoming cocktail of Mount Greylock Gin, Cocchi Americano, Creme de Violette and lemon juice. It was excellent, even converting some “gin skeptic” members of the group. Chef Sáenz  offered a few words of welcome -   then it was time for the food to do the talking. Before each course was served, though, he would appear briefly and succinctly explain the dish, answering whatever questions we had. What I found refreshing was his humility. The world of chefs has a plethora of overly egotistical denizens, a situation that gets tedious quickly. Fortunately, Chef Sáenz doesn’t present himself as a rock star.

The Menu

Fluke Cerviche

Fluke Cerviche
black quinoa, aji amarillo, pickled shallots

paired with Gatinois NV, Grand Cru Brut Champagne, Ay FR

The fluke had a clean fresh taste highlighted by its brief cure in Meyer lemon juice. The silken  fish provided  a canvas for the sweet and tart flavors of the dish – lemon, pepper, pickled shallots. The puffed quinoa was an unexpected crunchy contrast. I enjoyed the playful aspect of this dish- the bold colors of the shallots, pepper coulis and black quinoa. The pairing with the champagne – all apple and bread – worked well.

Wood Oven Roasted White Asparagus

panisse croutons, sauce gribiche, marcona almonds

paired with ’10 Henri Bourgeois, Sauvignon Blanc, “La Chapelle des Augustins”,  Sancerre FR

Roasting these beautiful asparagus intensified their delicate flavor perfectly. The fried chickpea croutons provided an earthy element; the Gribiche offering an herbal contrast while the almonds lent texture and sweetness. Though asparagus can  present a problem for pairing, this Sauvignon Blanc stood up to all the aspects of this course.

Scituate Scallops

Scituate Scallops
steamed clams, artichoke, locally foraged ramps

paired with ’12 County Line, Rosé of Pinot Noir, “Elke Home Ranch”, Anderson Valley CA

 A perfectly seared scallop – melting and sweet inside – paired with briney clams, braised artichokes, the distinctive flavor of grilled ramps, purple and yellow fingerling potatoes and crispy fried shallots equaled a well realized dish. The excellent rosé provided the right acidity and fruitfulness to both contrast with and compliment the dish.

Grilled Hangar Steak

Grilled Hangar Steak
spinach puree, spring vegetables, romesco

paired with ’06 Vina Alberdi, Temparanillo, Rioja SP

This course was visually stunning - and delicious! The intensely colored and flavored spinach puree perhaps a riff on steakhouse creamed spinach? The meat was full flavored, accented by the excellent rendition of the classic Spanish Romesco sauce. (Chef Sáenz using hazelnuts instead almonds). Springtime  came through with the accompanying vegetables – beets, baby carrots, peas and favas, all precisely cooked. The big wine – one of the wine lists outstanding bargains – was an excellent match to the grilled meat.

Fromage Blanc Cheesecake

Fromage Blanc Cheesecake
graham cracker crust, kumquats

paired with ’10 Brooks, Late Harvest Riesling, Eola-Amity Hills, OR

 And finally, dessert. This cheesecake – reminiscent of the “no- bake” cheesecakes I grew up with but exponentially better – was just right to end the meal. Fromage Blanc – similar to Greek yogurt – provided the lightness in this deconstructed dessert: graham cracker crust functioned as a garnish. The candied kumquats added a bright citrus note.

In addition to the great interplay of ingredients and textures throughout the meal, I was  impressed with the plating of each course. Chef Sáenz presents his cuisine in a bold and robust manner. There is none of the preciousnes of “tweezer cuisine”.

And a word about the wines. Amy Audette, General Manager of Lineage is like myself and my colleagues at WDWU an alum of Boston University’s Elizabeth Bishop Wine Program. Besides her duties as GM, she’s also the restaurant’s sommelier. Her choices for the evening were outstanding.

My thanks to Nicole Kanner and Liz Greene of All Heart, Jeremy and Lisa Sewall chef/owners of LiNEaGe and Chef Alex Sáenz whose tenure is Boston will be most notable.

LiNeaGe   242 Harvard St. Brookline MA

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Are food trucks the love child of “roach coaches” and “dirty water” dogs? Perhaps, since mobile food vending has a long history in the US starting with 17th century street food hawkers and continuing to the present with the recent explosion of food trucks. Evolving out of our burgeoning food culture – thank Julia for starting it all –  mobile dining has become part of the culinary landscape. Boston though was slow getting in gear, its citizens watching hungrily as the food truck movement developed on the West Coast, particularly in L.A. and Seattle. All that’s past. Boston now has a flotilla of trucks that motors out each day to provide tasty, creative and reasonably priced food in a mobile sort of way. Food trucks are here to stay.  While some truck operators go brick and mortar – Clover, Bon Me, Roxy and Mei Mei – some brick and mortar operators are going mobile – Paris Creperie, Area 4. And in a food culture that has a streak of competitiveness – “Iron Chef”, “Top Chef” and even the august “Bocuse d’Or” – why not a food truck throwdown pitting not only truck against truck, but city against city. And so in the friendly spirit of the Red Sox-Yankee rivalry, The Food Truckthrowdown – Boston Alliance vs. New York STReatS came to be on a gorgeous spring day on The Greenway.

I was fortunate to be invited by Vanessa Dones, account executive at EVINS, “brand architects”, to participate in a food truck crawl. Vanessa works with Maker’s Mark Bourbon to partner that brand with food truck chefs willing to incorporate a signature Maker’s Mark inspired item into their menu. Her work has certainly been successful: fourteen of the competing trucks had Maker’s Mark offerings. And one of the categories in the throwdown competition was for best Maker’s Mark themed item. Vanessa was a great crawl guide; I sampled nine Maker’s Mark items that were as wildly diverse as the food trucks themselves. We also got to speak with several of the food truck operators for a candid look at the mobile food business. And have I mentioned that Bourbon is my favorite brown spirit? Though reluctant to admit it, I was in “foodie heaven”.

THE LOWDOWN AT THE THROWDOWN

NEW YORK strEATs

• Momos & Buns – “Drunken” Dumpling
• Big D’s Grub – Maker’s Mark Rib Eye Taco
• Munchie Mobile – Bleu Dream Burger with Maker’s Mark Carmelized Onions
• Itizy’s – Brown Butter Maker’s Mark Ice Cream with Salted Caramel Swirl

BOSTON ALLIANCE

• Paris Creperie - Makers Mark Creme Brulée
• Mei Mei - Liver Pâté Cone with Maker’s Mark Gelée
• Roxy’s – Maker’s Mark Peach Marmalade & Triple Crème Melt
• Bon Me – Maker’s Mark & Palm Sugar Pulled Pork Sandwich
• Kickass Cupcakes – Mint Julep Cupcake with Maker’s Mark Icing

Though I didn’t stay for the competition and judging later in the afternoon, I did pick a winner. Though partial to burgers and impressed with “The Bleu Dream Burger” ftom Munchie Mobile, I went with the home team. My fave of the day was the pulled pork sandwich from Bon Me, a most savory way to enjoy Maker’s Mark.

And the winner is – Pulled Pork with Palm Sugar & Maker’s Mark with Napa Cabbage, Fuji Apple and Cilantro Slaw from Bon Me

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In the glass, it was very pale yellow, almost watery, but the aroma and palate were anything but. As you would expect from Muscat, this is a highly aromatic wine, with loads of those Torrontés-like aromas that I noted above, and tropical fruits, primarily pineapple. A light petrol note develops after a time in the glass. Citrus and golden apple combine with the tropical fruits on the palate. Light-bodied with zippy acidity.

A pretty little wine, as Glenn would say, and Certified Biodynamic to boot!

At Central Bottle for $19.

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I was eager to attend this event held at The Exchange Conference Center on the Boston Fish Pier which consisted of both a seminar and walk-around tasting; eager because one of my instructors at Boston University’s Elizabeth Bishop Center for Wine, Sandy Block MW, would be leading the seminar and guided tasting. In addition to being an excellent teacher, Sandy is a Master of Wine and creator of Legal Seafoods’ outstanding wine program. After registering for L”Aventure Languedoc three times due to some redundancy at the agency running the event, I was looking forward to an instructive and enjoyable afternoon. However, when checking in, I was informed that though registered for the walk-around tasting, I was not registered for the seminar which by then was fully booked. The upshot was that while the other attendees were at the seminar, I had a largely deserted tasting room to myself, conducive for both easily engaging the distributors pouring and accessing the spitoon, always a problem at a crowded table.

There were thirteen tables to be visited for a total of fifty-plus wines to be sampled. But that wasn’t my goal. Rather, I was more interested in an overview of the wines from this once infamous region. The Languedoc-Roussillon, largest wine region in both France and the world, at one time supplied France’s notorious “wine lake”: subsidized farmers produced wines of such poor quality that they were only suitable for industrial purposes and in such quantity that a sizeable surplus was created. With the exception of a  few serious and highly regarded producers in the region, Languedoc wines were not taken seriously. That chapter of Languedoc history has been laid to rest. Better quality wines are now produced and the region has entered the world wine market with a notable and growing presence.

As a member of The Rosé Society, my first task was to seek out pinks. I only found a scant handful. The best of these was the ’12 Hecht & Bannier Languedoc Rosé – racy with brambly fruit.

Though my quest for pinks yielded little, the number of good sparklers made up for my disappointment. As the consumption of champagne increases, so does the market for value-priced sparkling wine. Whether or not champagne is inherently over-priced, the market has opened up for more reasonably priced alternatives. Particularly attractive are the sparklers from Limoux, a sub-region of Languedoc, which claims to be the actual birthplace of sparkling wine. Most interesting was  Gilles Louvet’s ” Bulles d’O” NV Blanquette de Limoux. (A “Blanquette de Limoux” is composed of at least 90% Mauzac, a local indigenous grape.) In addition to the Blanquette style, there is also Cremant de Limoux – composed of Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay and – in the case of rosés – some Pinot Noir. In the sparkler category, the wines from Domaine J. Laurens stood out – both the ’10 “Les Graimenous” and the Rosé No.7 NV. (Both are imported by Cynthia Hurley French Wines.) All the sparklers at the show are exceptional values; “Les Graimenous” easily compares with Champagnes four times its price.

As for reds, my tasting seemed to center on wines featuring Syrah blended with Grenache, Carignan or Mourvedre. (Frankly, I prefer my Syrah blended with Viognier but that’s another story in another region.) In general, these reds are straight-forward with good fruit – black berries with herbal and earthy accents, moderate acidity and manageable tannins. Languedoc reds are made for food – game, grilled meats, charcuterire. And like the sparklers are great value. Among the reds, I particularly enjoyed the Hecht & Bannier ’10 Minervois and  Rhone winemaker Pierre Gaillard’s ’09 “Transhumance”. (Cynthia Hurley French Wines scored a trifecta with the two outstanding sparklers and the “Transhumance”.) In addition, I particularly enjoyed the  selections from two négociants –  Hecht & Bannier  (imported by Frederick Wildman & Sons) and those of Gérard Bertrand.

Though the afternoon didn’t turn out as I’d anticipated, I did enjoy tasting my way through the wines of a region that has turned itself around.

L’Aventure Languedoc 

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The Alois Lageder Haberle Pinot Bianco is a straw yellow, with a clear, bright appearance in the glass. Lots of golden apple, pear, and peach aromas. While minerality was not pronounced on the palate, I did find it on the nose. It has a wonderful complexity, on the palate, which shows lemony notes and white peach in addition to the fruits found in the aroma. There is a lanolin viscosity, which gave the wine a nice richness and roundness. It is ripe, but not at all sweet. Medium plus acidity and body. The finish is clean, lingering, and lemony. Very good.

At Central Bottle for $24.

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Ruth’s Chris Steak House at the beautiful Old Boston City Hall

Inevitably, spring comes to Boston. In fits and starts,  the earth warms, the grass greens and myriad buds unfurl. In juxtaposition, a wrenching week of watching evil, tragedy and loss unfold. If ever there was a time for a celebratory nod to the nascent season –  a joyous gathering a tavola celebrating the marriage of food and wine –  it was now. And so, on a New England perfect spring evening, I made my way to the “Coppola Spring Wine Celebration” at Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse for a media dinner.

The eveining was hosted by Marlow Daniel, Director of PR and Communications for “Francis Ford Coppola Presents”, assisted by both Clay M. Hall, Director of National Accounts, and Joseph Mattivello, New England Regional Manager. Francis Ford Coppola has two wineries – Niebaum-Coppola in Napa and Coppola Winery in Sonoma. While the Napa estate is now focused on producing a 100 point wine, the Sonoma property provides more everyday selections and it was these wines which were featured at the dinner. The highlight of the evening was having Coppola winemaker Corey Beck on hand to discuss the winery. Chef Andy Ortiz stepped out of the kitchen introducing each course;  Mr. Beck would then discuss the paired wine. Mr. Beck also made it a point to skillfully table-hop throughout the evening so all guests had the opportunity to chat with him.

Hand-Passed Hors D’Oeuvres

Seared Ahi served on a Crisp Cucumber and Fresh Tomato Bruschetta Crostini

Paired with 2011 Sofia Blanc de Blancs

“Sofia” – all dressed up and ready to pour

 This wine was Mr. Beck’s first assignment for the winery. Mr. Coppola wanted a fresh lively Prosecco-styled sparkling wine for the wedding of his daughter Sofia, the talented film director. And the wine accomplished those goals. Our mantra at WDWU  –  ”A sparkler sets the tone”.

First Course

Chilled Shellfish Salad
tiger shrimp, lump crabmeat, spring greens, white balsamic vinaigrette

Paired with 2011 Diamond Chardonnay

As the chef said, this was a riff on steak house salad but garnished with house poached shrimp

I’m not usually a fan of California Chardonnay which can often be a flabby rendition of Carmen Miranda’s hat. I was pleasantly surprised by this wine – ripe but not over-ripe fruit, judicious oak and a creaminess that melded well with the salad and vinaigrette.

Second Course

Wild Mushroom Risottos

cremini mushrooms, fresh thyme, Romano cheese

Paired with 2010 Votre Santé Pinot Noir

Perfect pairing – “forest floor” in both wine and mushrooms

 This course was my favorite pairing – and appropriately spring-like. This Pinot is restrained, owing more to Burgundy than California: fruitful but not overextracted with good acidity, moderate alcohol and mild tannins – a great food wine. The aromas of dried leaves, forest floor, mushroom and earth complimented the wild mushrooms in the risotto. The wine’s acidity a good foil to the richness of the dish.

Third Course

8 oz Filet* & Lobster Tail Rockefeller

stuffed with creamy spinach and Romano cheese

Served with potatoes au gratin and green beans

Paired with 2010 Diamond Claret

Surf’n'Turf with a Bordeaux via Cali accent

“ Claret” – have the French ever thanked the British properly for their role in promoting the wines of Bordeaux? Probably not. This wine contains all five Bordeaux varietals was hearty enough to accompany the steak but not so massive as to overpower the lobster.

Fourth Course

Chocolate Sin Cake & Fresh Berries

rich and sinful flourless chocolate cake

 Paired with 2010 Director’s Cut Cabernet

A beautiful dessert with a beautiful wine but not together

It’s become something of a fashion to pair chocolate and Cabernet. However, that pairing rarely works for me. The intensity and richness of the chocolate just defeats the wine. I believe some sugar – Port, Maury, Pedro Ximenez – is called for. Individually both the dessert and the wine were excellent just not together.

This had been a perfect way to celebrate the arrival of spring (hopefully!) and to gain a respite from the cruelty of the preceding week.

Kudos to both the team from Coppola Winery and the kitchen and wait staff at Ruth’s Chris Steak House for ensuring such an enjoyable and enlightening evening.

Ruth’s Chris Steak House     45School St.     Boston MA

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This trade show had a slogan -

Drink Ribera, Drink Spain

and entitling the show a workshop emphasized the educational component. Additionally, the Drink Ribera Boston Workshop was held at Jonathon Alsop’s Boston Wine School, further highlighting the educational aspect of this event. Spanish food and wine have come to prominence thanks to the notoriety then fame of the molecular gastronauts and the American embrace of small plate dining, i.e. tapas. Ribera del Duero, the full name of the Denominación de Origen, was a sleepy region with just nine wineries when the D.O. was created in 1982. Today, there are close to three hundred. With the ever-expanding wine market, once unremarkable regions are amping up both production and quality to compete with more illustrious regions, in the case of Ribera, Rioja. The grape in both regions is the indigenous Temparnillo. And if this workshop is any indication, the wines of Ribera easily compete with those of Rioja.

The workshop consisted of a guided tasting seminar led by David Singer, sommelier and Certified Wine Educator, followed by a walk-around tasting. Mr. Singer presented the six wines in a concise manner, noting that in the last five years, the quality of the wines from Ribera has improved. One of the challenges of vinifying Tempranillo is taming the grapes tannins. This is usually accomplished by ageing in oak barrels, either French oak or American oak for which Spanish winemakers have a marked fondness. What struck me most about the wines we tasted through was the deft use of oak. Used inexpertly, I feel like I’m chewing on an oak floor as the lining of my mouth shrivels up. All six wines were between 13 and 15% alcohol due to the warm daytime tempuratures in Ribera, but none were “hot” or jammy, the cool night-time temperatures ensure an even ripening of fruit. Prices ranged from $15 to $50, though the most expensive wine was not the stand-out of the tasting. Most exhibited a fruit-forward international or modern style. The crowd favorite was the ’06 Trus Reserva from Bodegas Trus at a suggested retail price of $45. After 24 months in French oak, the wine was beautifully integrated. Yet for all the modernity, the dark horse of the tasting was a wine decidedly more restrained and traditional than all the others, the ’09 Tinto Pesquera, the winery’s entry level wine.

After the seminar, time for the walk-around tasting. Fifteen wineries were pouring; of these, seven had American importers, eight were looking for such. In addition, thirty six wineries were included in the “wine bar” – a display of wineries also seeking importers. At the walk-around, Trus Bodega – so impressive in the seminar – was represented by three wines each representing three of the quality designations used in Ribera – Consecha or Joven, Crianza and Riserva. In addition to the Riserva tasted in the seminar, the ’11 Tramuz,  a Joven, and the ’10 Trus Crianza were excellent. Another favorite of mine was the ’09 Condado de Haza, an outstanding value wine, made by the wine maker of Tinto Pesquera, seminar runner-up, Alejandro Fernández, himself a pioneer in helping Ribera del Duero gain recognition and reputation.

To complete the event, Chef Deborah Hansen of Taberna de Haro, provided a selection of tapas – tortilla with roasted red pepper, house-made paté, assorted Iberian cheeses and charcuterie. Chef Hansen was also slicing paper-thin slices from an entire jamon for our enjoyment. Kudos to both her and her staff!

More info about Ribera del Duero at www.drinkribera.com

The Boston Wine School is located at 1354 Comm. Ave., Allston, MA

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“Treasures of Montepulciano” is first in a series focusing on wine trade shows. Essentially, a trade show presents a crash course on wines to retailers, writers, travel professionals and wine educators. Usually focusing on a specific region within a wine-producing country, the event offers exposure to wines either already available in this country or conversely wine producers looking for an American importer. As the world-wide wine market continues to expand, these shows often highlight lesser known regions hoping to be lifted by the rising market. In the case of two of the events to be covered in this series, these regions have been overshadowed by more illustrious neighbors. Wine producers who once settled for making bulk wines, now want a market share of the more lucrative individually bottled wines and so modernize their wineries and adopt more rigorous prctices. Everyone benefits: the producers by embracing a more profitable business model and consumers with increased access to well-crafted wines.

*********

Sangiovese is the most widely planted red grape in Italy and arguably the finest examples of the grape can be found in Chianti. However, in neighboring  Montepulciano where Sangiovese is known as Prugnolo Gentile a campaign has been  underway to better acquaint  the wine-drinking public with the wines produced there. In Montepulciano, three iterations of the grape are expressed – Rosso di Montepulciano, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva. “The Treasures of Montepulciano” presented by the Conzorzio del Vino Nobile di Montepulciano at the Colonnade Hotel included a walk-around tasting featuring the wines of thirteen producers. In addition, the program included  a travelogue promoting the ”eno-gastronomic and cultural” attractions of the area –  history, archaeology, art, architecture and cuisine. At the tasting, over forty iterations of Sangiovese were offered . Though the rules governing the production of the three Montepulciano wines are specific, individual winemakers produce a extremely diverse lot – one grape yielding multiple expressions.

Of the three wines, Rosso di Montipulciano is the most casual. Made with what might be considered lesser fruit, the wine is fresh, approachable and ready-to-drink. Though not a serious wine – think “picnic wine” – it can be delicious – fruitful and fun. We particularly enjoyed the Rossos from Dei and La Braccesca Marchesi Antinori.

As we tasted our way through the Vino Nobile and Vino Nobile Riserva, two winemaking styles emerged – wines with a spare, elegant style which we deemed traditional and those done in a more international style which at times even bordered on brawny. Though the regulations of the various wine appellations are based upon tradition, tradtion has a way of evolving to meet the tastes of a dynamic wine market. Various vintages of each were offered, some of which we thought not quite ready for consumption-  further cellaring would be in order. Stand-outs among the Vino di Nobile Montepulciano were  the ’08 from Il Macchione, the ’09 Poliziano and the ’06 “Salco Evoluzione” from Salcheto. In the Riserva category, we were impressed with ’07 Riserva  again from Il Macchione and the ’06 “Santa Pia” from Antinori. Afterwards, I wondered if Antinori stole the show. Not only were their wines from Montipulciano outstanding, we were also offered two additional wines – both 100% Syrah – from a neighboring appellation, both of which were excellent.

And as we always have an eye out for pinks, we did find two amidst all the serious reds of which the ’11 Salcheto Rosé – 100% Sangiovese – was wonderful.

To compliment the wine and entice the travel professionals, the kitchen of the Colonnade offered a wonderful selection of Tuscan treats. Kudos to both the kitchen crew and the especially gracious banquet serving staff.

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