by glenn on April 26, 2012
The Blue Ox 191 Oxford St. Lynn MA
One could watch the Food Network or attend a demo at Williams-Sonoma but the experience would not be particularly engaging but rather passive – couch potato passive and adoring audience passive. Frankly, one needs more zip in one’s culinary life and what better avenue to culinary engagement than attending a cooking demonstration with Chef Matt O’Neil at the Blue Ox in Lynn. Chef O’Neil periodically presents an evening’s program which offers a three course prix fixe menu during which he demo’s the main course. The Dinearound of which I’m a member has been to three of these demonstrations – the evening, thanks to Chef O’Neil’s entertaining yet highly informative teaching style, is that engaging. And, did I mention, the food is excellent. For a recent demonstration, Chef O’Neil created a dish using wild striped bass with a vegetable medley featuring several spring vegetables. (When I hear the phrase “vegetable medley” I think of those restos I worked in where uninspired chefs would offer sliced zucchini, yellow squash and carrots as a vegetable medley du jour. Not so here at the Blue Ox.)
Chef O’Neil’s dishes are just a bit complex. The striped bass dish featured not only the fish but the vegetable ragout upon which it sat and the tomato and chervil salad with truffle dressing which it was topped. But Chef deconstructed the whole creation into manageable components for the home chef. He began by talking about the spring vegetables he was using and how to prep them ahead of time. For those unfamilar with ramps or fresh fava beans, time to listen up. Next he discussed the striper – what to look for when buying the fish, how to breakdown a large piece into serving portions and then prepare those for cooking. Then onto the salad. For those unfamilar with chervil and truffles and truffle oil, he provided the lowdown. While he prepared the various components, we began the first course, the deeply flavored corn and crab chowder. Chef O’Neil never misses a beat – the dialogue and cooking are non-stop. While creating good cuisine may be paramount, communicating culinary information and technique is essential.
At the beginning of the demo, Chef recommended two wines, both California chardonnays. Actually, though, I wanted to try the Paul Hobbs “Crossbarn” which proved to be an excellent companion to both the chowder and the main course. And that main course? The fish was perfectly cooked with extra crispy skin; the vegetable medley a fresh taste of spring; and finishing the dish, the earthy tomato and truffle salad. The tart provided a sweet - but not too sweet - finish; though local strawberries and rhubarb are available at different times, we often think of this dessert as essential springtime.
For a bit of culinary education and adventure, get out of the city. Like Worcester, there’s life in Lynn – and it’s well worth the trip.
The next demo is May 22nd and seats are quite limited. More info here.
1st course
Corn & Crab Chowder
cilantro, mint
2nd course
Wild Striped Bass
sautéed ramps, fava beans, English peas, diced potato, chervil, tomato & truffle salad
3rd course
Strawberry Rhubarb Tart
vanilla sauce, whipped cream
by glenn on April 19, 2012
- The evening’s fare
The Evening’s Featured Pairings
-
2006 Jackson Triggs Vidal (Niagara, Canada) – Finale’s Signature Cheesecake
-
2009 Renwood Amador Ice Wine (California) – Strawberry Frangipane Tart
-
2006 Selaks Marlborough (New Zealand) – Key Lime Tart
-
2009 Cooper Mountain Vin Glacé (Willamette Valley, Oregon) – Lemon Tart
-
2006 Inniskillin Vidal Ice Wine (Niagara, Canada) – Crème Brulée
Winemakers have a repetoire of tricks to turn a sow’s ear of a wine into a silk purse commodity. Adding sugar to underripe grapes, removing water from thin bodied wines, removing alcohol from wines made from overly ripe grapes – all tricks of the hacker’s trade. Yet, in the case of ice wines, the greatest manipulater of all is Nature. By allowing already ripe grapes to hang on the vine until they freeze, the water inside the grapes crystallizes into ice and when pressed, the ultra-ripe grapes yield a concentrated juice. Where freezing temperatures are fickle or even non-existent, the grapes can be harvested late and then frozen mechanically. The resulting wine is ambrosial – full-bodied, sweet and acidic – the perfect partner to desserts and some cheeses.
As part of the ongoings series of special tastings at Finale Desserterie and Bakery, Chef Nicole Coady with the assistance of Tracy Burgess of HMS Walker presented an evening of Ice Wines paired with Finale’s outstanding desserts. I was fortunate to be invited by Mindy Valone of CM Communications to be a media guest. The evening began with Tracy giving an interesting and concise ”Ice Wine 101″. Chef Coady then explained the process she uses of matching wines with her desserts – tasting a wine and then pairing it with any number of items until she finds the best partners. Ice wines with their elevated levels of sugar and acidity marry well with desserts that are likewise sweet but also rich – think butter, eggs, cream. Moreover, desserts with high acidity also stand up well to the wines.
The ice wines chosen for the evening showcased the broad stylistic range of these wines. The two wines from Canada both made with the North American hybrid grape Vidal Blanc were traditional – harvested while frozen. The other three made with European varietals were mechanically frozen. And what a diverse lot! The Renwood Amador made in the Sierra Foothills is a blend of Zinfandel, Barbera and Viognier – ripe red fruit and a hint of peach. The Selaks Marlborough blends Reisling and Gewurtraminer for a particularly floral and citrus nose. The Cooper Mountain is straight Pinot Gris imparting a wonderful aroma of apples. The Inniskillin was the star of the evening – unctous and august. All the wines complimented or contrasted with the desserts with which they were paired. The Jackson Triggs highlighted the acidity and the creaminess of the cheesecake. The pretty pink Renwood worked well with the nuttiness of the frangipane and the sweetness of the strawberry. The Selaks and the Key Lime Tart – both sweet but tart - underscored the fruity raspberry component of the dessert. The Cooper Mountain and Lemon Tart produced a certain piquant but mellow experience. The Inniskillin and Crème Brulée were stellar – the acidity of the wine elevating the richness of the custard. The success of these pairings also lies in matching the level of sweetness in both dessert and wine.
An event at Finale is quite engaging. After introducing each wine and dessert combo, Chef Coady and Tracy would then go table-to-table discussing the pairing and its components with the guests. This interaction added a welcome personal touch to the evening.
The next special tasting events at Finale are quite intriguing – pairing craft beers with desserts. More info available on the website.
by glenn and katrin on March 9, 2012
Part of the occasional series The Fenway: One Bite at a Time
The sketchy signage
Katrin – Located at 1260 Boylston Street, just one block from Fenway Park, Sweet Caroline’s is in a space that has been home to some rather short-lived restaurants and bars in recent years, including a chicken wing place and a Mexican cantina. Every time I pass it and see the flimsy banner tied over the entrance I wonder if the owners are expecting Sweet Caroline’s to meet the same fate and have decided not to invest in more permanent signage. By virtue of a menu laden with burgers and simple comfort food, a lengthy beer list, and the wall of flat-screen TVs, Sweet Caroline’s is clearly geared toward the crowds that gather before Red Sox games to eat and drink and to the ticketless who are not members of Jerry Remy’s Season Pass club across the street. With the Red Sox’s epic fail and subsequent short season, September 2011 must have been an inauspicious time to open such an establishment if ever there was one. But with a Groupon burning in my wallet and knowing that the restaurant had several months to work out the kinks, Glenn and I decided to give yet another Fenway sports bar a try.
Glenn – I arrived before Katrin and immediately was impressed with the lay out of the bar and restaurant. The lower level comprises the dining area – no TVs – and the upper level the bar – mucho TVs. The decor features wood in various warm tones offset by stone accents. The focal point is the wonderful large vertical garden occupying one wall of the dining area, an installation resembling either a “Jeff Koons goes minimalist” piece or a Hans Hacke system. While waiting, I checked out the cocktail menu – many contemporary “martinis”; the wine list – suitable only for the most casual of wine drinkers; and finally the beer list – draft and cans. I chose the Magic Hat Spring Seasonal “Vinyl Lager” – good but not as compelling as Sam Adams most current lager, “Alpine Spring”.
Katrin – Glenn and I opted to go on a Wednesday night, because the bar offered Wine Flight Wednesdays. Unfortunately, they had discontinued it. Not that it was much of a loss as the wine list was about as pedestrian and uninteresting as it gets. Despite the lack of good wine choices, I did end up ordering a glass of the Cupcake Malbec. This was only after a failed attempt to order a Negroni. After looking up the recipe and searching the liquor bottles, our bartender reported that the bar doesn’t stock Campari. (Seriously? What kind of a bar doesn’t carry Campari?) As for the food, it should be passable for the suburbanites with Applebee’s-trained palates heading to the “big city.” I ordered the steak tips, which were served lukewarm and had a weirdly sweet and unappealing marinade. The sweet potato fries were tasty, but limp and almost mushy. The house-made onion rings, however, were crisp and well-made.
Steak tips and the notable onion rings
Glenn – A good portion of the menu of the menu is devoted to salads – four small salads and six large salads – all of which can be enhanced with various meats. I guess these provide a healthy option for those not following the “off to hell-in-a-handbasket” burger diet. As an adherent of the latter, I chose the bleu cheese burger described thusly -
“Hand stuffed with bleu cheese, topped with caramelized onions, mushrooms and smoked bacon on a grilled bulkie roll 11.99″
Pros – generously sized = good value; sturdy bun; tasty onions and mushrooms; bacon cooked the way I like it – not too crisp. Cons – the burger was not stuffed with blue cheese ; the cheese came atop; wrong temperature – I specified medium rare, it arrived medium to medium well; the burger was somewhat dry. My overall assessment - B-. I also ordered the sweet potato fries – tasty but limp. I’m sometimes nostalgic for the days when MacDonalds fried their frites in lard.
The decent bleu cheese burger
Katrin – In this time of interconnectedness and viral information distribution, Sweet Caroline’s has managed to do something I find remarkable: it has almost no on-line buzz. I couldn’t help but compare it to Sweet Cheeks Q, which opened shortly after Sweet Caroline’s did just a couple of blocks down Boylston Street. It may be an unfair comparison given that powerhouse Tiffani Faisson is behind Sweet Cheeks Q, but a quick look shows Sweet Cheeks Q with 159 Yelp reviews, 13 Urban Spoon reviews, 20 Google reviews, and nearly 1200 Twitter followers. In contrast, Sweet Caroline’s has only 31 Yelp reviews, no Urban Spoon reviews, 3 Google reviews, and a not even 120 Twitter followers (this could in part be due to the fact that their account – @sweet_crln – is almost impossible to find unless you are on their website). But reviews aren’t everything, right?
by glenn on February 9, 2012
The members of the Dinearound were looking for a change. We’d grown bored with chef-inflected white table cloth dining where a server strolls through the dining room rationing rolls one by one. We were seeking something more fun and – shall I say – basic. For our last outing, we’d gathered at Tupelo (again) for straight-forward, not “re-imagined”, Southern cooking with a side of roadhouse vibe. And we wanted more of the same. When I mentioned Myers+Chang, the response was enthusiastic. Of the group, I was the only one who’d been there. I was certain the Dinearound would enjoy this pan-Asian diner created by Boston’s eminent culinary duo, Joanne Chang and Christopher Myers. Since my last visit, there was a new executive chef Karen Akunowicz who like myself attended CSCA and also like myself esteems the lamb sandwich from Flour (best sandwich in Boston). It was time to put the fun back in dining. [click to continue…]
by glenn and katrin on December 29, 2011
A beacon for 'que seekers
GLENN – This sign shines like a beacon up and down Boylston St. calling all ‘que lovers – smack in the middle of Boston’s newest restaurant scene, The Fenway. Was this the most anticipated restaurant opening in Boston this season, edging out Catalyst across the river in the Republic? Whatever – we were finally dining here. I always wait awhile before venturing out to a new place – I don’t like to be paying to be part of the shake-down period. At Sweet Cheeks Q, that period of ironing out the quirks of menu and service issues is way past. We were there on a Tuesday night, the joint was jumping, slamming, at full throttle – with neither kitchen or front of the house missing a beat. Enough of gastropubs, auteur restos, cocktail scenes – time to get extremely down home and just a bit white trashy.
KATRIN – Yes, I agree that it’s time for great food without the attitude – especially at restaurants where the over-the-top pretentiousness risks making a parody of the cuisine and the entire experience. I have lived in the Fenway for several years and am delighted in how the neighborhood has emerged as a dining destination. Gone are the days of having to go to the South End or Back Bay in order to eat something other than burgers or Italian. To have star chef Tiffani Faison, whose food I greatly enjoyed at Rocca, come to the Fenway is just awesome!
GLENN -As soon as we were seated, we were informed by our server that this was Texas ‘que 
- the meat, given a spice rub and cooked in a smoker, is served “dry”, the diner choosing the sauce with which to douse the meat. And what would we like to drink? I chose an amazing Manhattan riff, a wonderful concoction of Weller Bourbon, Sapling Vermont Maple Liqueur, Urban Moonshine Maple Bitters and a brandied cherry. For those like me who prefer Manhattans on the sweet side, the drink perfect – and the maple flavor intriguing. The woman seated next to us at the communal table goaded us to order the Bucket O’ Biscuits as a starter – “They’re as big as your head” she said. Unless you’re Zippy, they weren’t – but what they were were wonderfully light and fluffy. And they came with honey butter(!).
KATRIN - I sensed that Glenn was a bit reluctant to order the biscuits, but fortunately gave in. They were huge and I enjoyed my leftover biscuit for breakfast the next morning.
GLENN – There’s a slew of ordering options – I choose a tray of Great Northern Brisket. Trays come with one hot scoop, one cold scoop, two slices of white bread, pickles and onions. For my hot scoop, I chose Cita’s Broccoli Cheese Casserole - who’s Cita I wondered? a Southern church lady, a roadhouse maven or a cook’s mother? My cold scoop was a carrot and raisin salad, a dish I dimly recall from my mid-century childhood, but unlike that dish, this came with cilantro and blue cheese. Beer is my beverage of choice for ‘que, though there is the option of a white and a red on tap from Gotham Project. I ordered the Stormy Seas “Winter Storm Category 5″ from Clipper City Brewing. Though the brewery is headquartered in Baltimore, our server informed us that it was brewed in Gloucester.
KATRIN - The fun of dining at communal tables, especially in a restaurant that is boisterous and loud, is talking to others at the table. The parties on both sides of us were more than eager to give us their thoughts, recommendations, and critiques pretty much as soon as we sat down. 
After weighing the options, I also chose a tray – pulled pork was my meat choice, with farmer’s salad and mac ‘n cheese as my cold and hot scoops respectively. The pork was nothing short of perfect! Deeply flavorful and well-seasoned, I loved the fact that it came dry since I generally don’t care for food swimming in sauce. I added a bit of barbeque sauce to the side of my plate to taste it, but honestly, this tender and tasty meat doesn’t need it. The farmer’s salad with leaves of Brussels sprouts and greens in a light dressing highlighted by sharp Parmesan cheese was very good and the mac ‘n cheese was good but somewhat unremarkable. I’ll order a different hot scoop next time. I washed it all down with a Kentucky Bourbon Barrel Ale. I’m not much of a beer drinker, but this brew it might just make a convert out of me.
GLENN – And my assessment? My brisket was succulent – a word I never thought I’d use in conjunction with brisket – with great flavor from the rub. The broccoli cheese casserole was extremely tasty but for the veggie vigilant, this is not crisp and hyper green broccoli. The carrot salad was a contrast between the sweetness of the raisins – both dark and golden – the funk of the blue cheese, the earthiness of the cilantro all offset by the crunch of the carrots. And that brew? The brewery describes it as an “Imperial ESB” – whatever it may be, it was perfect with my ‘que.
KATRIN - Overall, Sweet Cheeks is a fantastic addition to not only the Fenway, but also to the Boston dining scene. I can’t wait to return!
by glenn on December 20, 2011
Part of a series looking back at the best – and occasionally the worst – of 2011
Happily for me, the tsunami of burger-centric dining continues. Burgers now abound in myriad iterations – “obsessive foodie” (Craigie on Main); “burger palace” (5 Napkins);” no frills plain and simple” (Tasty Burger); “patty geometry” (The Gallows’ flat patty); and now “celebrity burgers” (Marky Mark in his CKs flipping burgers down in Hingham).
However, I didn’t find my “Burger of the Year” at any of these joints but rather in two mainstays of the Boston restaurant scene. Two mainstays? – yes – since there is not one but two burgers taking honors.
First, the burger at Sel de La Terre. When I wrote my assessment, I wondered whether this is the perfect burger. It may well be. Sel de La Terre is a genteel – in the best sense of the word – resto. If you need a break from holiday hoopla – I usually use another somewhat crass word – take yourself there and recharge.
The perfect burger?
And tied for first place, the burger from Ten Tables Provincetown. When I ate this burger in the bar of Krista Kranyak’s P-Town outpost, I deemed it worthy of the Burger Hall of Fame. Though the P-Town location is closed for the season – and hopefully it will re-open in the spring – the burger can be enjoyed at the restaurant’s Jamaica Plain location.
One for the Hall of Fame
As the year’s end is a time of reflection, I do remember that when I was young and unformed, my idea of burger goodness was a trip to Wendy’s. What a long, strange trip……
by glenn on December 19, 2011
I’d won a contest.
The email notification read,
”Hi Glenn,Congrats! You’ve got yourself a seat at our Mac n’ Cheese Tasting/Pairing at Church THIS Friday, 12/16 .”
Awesome.
I”d come across the contest sponsored by Google Places while reading a post on Just Add Cheese. I entered with no intention of winning. But I did. I’ve dined at Church before and was eager to return. Chef de Cuisine Jon Gilman does “creative comfort food” and as daylight becomes scarce and the temperature dips, I need to be comforted and what better way than with Mac’n’ Cheese. In this case, not one but five comforting opportunites.
The Line Up
- Mozzarella, Romano, Basil, Balsamic Tomato Relish
- Pale Ale Vermont Cheddar, Mushrooms, Truffle Oil
- Goat Cheese, Toasted Winter Squash, Spicy IPA Pepitas
- Monterey Jack, Poblanos, Chorizo
- Gorgonzola, Worcesteshire and Stout Glazed Onions, Braised Beef
The evening was hosted by the warm and vivacious Adri Cowan. My fellow diners were an assortment of bloggers – food and otherwise – tweeters, bon vivants and other interesting persons.
- The first – only four more to go!
We were offered a choice of two draft beers from Church’s somewhat limited “on tap” menu. (However, their “by the bottle” selection is quite extensive.) Since the mac’n'cheese dishes were presented in ascending order of culinary weight – light, simple renditions to more complex and hearty – my server recommended I begin with a lighter brew and move on from there. I heeded his advice and begin with a selection from one of my favorite local brewers, the Steel Rail Extra Pale Ale from Berkshire Brewing, and then went on to another local brew, the Ipswich IPA.
This was mac’n'cheese heaven. All Chef Gilman’s renditions were enthusiastically received with the exception of the “Monterey Jack, Poblanos, Chorizo” iteration (too much heat). I really enjoyed the first, “Mozzarella, Romano, Balsamic Tomato Relish – the milkiness of the Mozzarella, the pungent kick from the sheepy Romano and the sweetness of the grape tomatoes. All evening though I was anticipating the final creation, “Gorgonzola, Worcestershire and Stout Glazed Onions, Braised Beef”. And I wasn’t disappointed. Judiciously balanced, it was chock full of umami, beefiness and Blue cheese funk. However, as one of my dining companions stated, it didn’t seem like mac’n'cheese. Yes, it was wonderfully over the top.
I haven’t yet mentioned the extraordinary cocktails at Church. These libations alone are worth the trip to the Fenway. Nor have I mentioned the ambience of Church – not the physical aspects of decor – but the human aggregation. Young professionals, students, punksters and rock’n'rollers plus people of a certain age – comme moi. My tablemates and myself were admiring the sequined shirt of a man in group of middle-aged revelers. Was it new or a keepsake from his disco youth? I would like to think the latter.
Thanks to Adri Cowan and Google Boston, Chef Gilman and Church.
