A beacon for 'que seekers
GLENN – This sign shines like a beacon up and down Boylston St. calling all ‘que lovers – smack in the middle of Boston’s newest restaurant scene, The Fenway. Was this the most anticipated restaurant opening in Boston this season, edging out Catalyst across the river in the Republic? Whatever – we were finally dining here. I always wait awhile before venturing out to a new place – I don’t like to be paying to be part of the shake-down period. At Sweet Cheeks Q, that period of ironing out the quirks of menu and service issues is way past. We were there on a Tuesday night, the joint was jumping, slamming, at full throttle – with neither kitchen or front of the house missing a beat. Enough of gastropubs, auteur restos, cocktail scenes – time to get extremely down home and just a bit white trashy.
KATRIN – Yes, I agree that it’s time for great food without the attitude – especially at restaurants where the over-the-top pretentiousness risks making a parody of the cuisine and the entire experience. I have lived in the Fenway for several years and am delighted in how the neighborhood has emerged as a dining destination. Gone are the days of having to go to the South End or Back Bay in order to eat something other than burgers or Italian. To have star chef Tiffani Faison, whose food I greatly enjoyed at Rocca, come to the Fenway is just awesome!
GLENN -As soon as we were seated, we were informed by our server that this was Texas ‘que 
- the meat, given a spice rub and cooked in a smoker, is served “dry”, the diner choosing the sauce with which to douse the meat. And what would we like to drink? I chose an amazing Manhattan riff, a wonderful concoction of Weller Bourbon, Sapling Vermont Maple Liqueur, Urban Moonshine Maple Bitters and a brandied cherry. For those like me who prefer Manhattans on the sweet side, the drink perfect – and the maple flavor intriguing. The woman seated next to us at the communal table goaded us to order the Bucket O’ Biscuits as a starter – “They’re as big as your head” she said. Unless you’re Zippy, they weren’t – but what they were were wonderfully light and fluffy. And they came with honey butter(!).
KATRIN - I sensed that Glenn was a bit reluctant to order the biscuits, but fortunately gave in. They were huge and I enjoyed my leftover biscuit for breakfast the next morning.
GLENN – There’s a slew of ordering options – I choose a tray of Great Northern Brisket. Trays come with one hot scoop, one cold scoop, two slices of white bread, pickles and onions. For my hot scoop, I chose Cita’s Broccoli Cheese Casserole - who’s Cita I wondered? a Southern church lady, a roadhouse maven or a cook’s mother? My cold scoop was a carrot and raisin salad, a dish I dimly recall from my mid-century childhood, but unlike that dish, this came with cilantro and blue cheese. Beer is my beverage of choice for ‘que, though there is the option of a white and a red on tap from Gotham Project. I ordered the Stormy Seas “Winter Storm Category 5″ from Clipper City Brewing. Though the brewery is headquartered in Baltimore, our server informed us that it was brewed in Gloucester.
KATRIN - The fun of dining at communal tables, especially in a restaurant that is boisterous and loud, is talking to others at the table. The parties on both sides of us were more than eager to give us their thoughts, recommendations, and critiques pretty much as soon as we sat down. 
After weighing the options, I also chose a tray – pulled pork was my meat choice, with farmer’s salad and mac ‘n cheese as my cold and hot scoops respectively. The pork was nothing short of perfect! Deeply flavorful and well-seasoned, I loved the fact that it came dry since I generally don’t care for food swimming in sauce. I added a bit of barbeque sauce to the side of my plate to taste it, but honestly, this tender and tasty meat doesn’t need it. The farmer’s salad with leaves of Brussels sprouts and greens in a light dressing highlighted by sharp Parmesan cheese was very good and the mac ‘n cheese was good but somewhat unremarkable. I’ll order a different hot scoop next time. I washed it all down with a Kentucky Bourbon Barrel Ale. I’m not much of a beer drinker, but this brew it might just make a convert out of me.
GLENN – And my assessment? My brisket was succulent – a word I never thought I’d use in conjunction with brisket – with great flavor from the rub. The broccoli cheese casserole was extremely tasty but for the veggie vigilant, this is not crisp and hyper green broccoli. The carrot salad was a contrast between the sweetness of the raisins – both dark and golden – the funk of the blue cheese, the earthiness of the cilantro all offset by the crunch of the carrots. And that brew? The brewery describes it as an “Imperial ESB” – whatever it may be, it was perfect with my ‘que.
KATRIN - Overall, Sweet Cheeks is a fantastic addition to not only the Fenway, but also to the Boston dining scene. I can’t wait to return!
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