Springtime on the High Line

It was just a quick trip into Manhattan. I was visiting friends north of the city and we wanted to re-visit both the High Line and the New Museum. We had toured the High Line shortly after it opened in 2009; ditto for the New Museum. An update was in order. The High Line fascinates me – a derelict elevated railway repurposed into a thriving and beloved urban park. The park – designed in part by Diller Scofidio + Renfro, the architects behind the now iconic ICA in Boston – is unlike any other in America. Imagine walking through a garden thirty feet above the street, passing between and even through buildings. I believe the closest equivalent is in Paris. And as for the New Museum, it never fails to grate and challenge. The exhibit – “NYC 1993″ – chronicles the New York art scene – galleries, exhibits, emerging and established artists – of that year. The highlight of our visit came while we were watching a scatological animatronic sculpture of a father, son and goat – ask no questions – going full throttle when “Mr. 1993″ himself, Bill Clinton, ex-bubba but now quite svelte, stepped off the elevator. Actually, the highlight of the show were three pieces by Felix Gonzalez-Torres - two of his billboard series and a sculpture. Enough culture chatter; what about the food?

On our first visit to the High Line, we had bought grab and go at the Chelsea Market. Now there are food vendors in the park itself. We chose The Taco Truck. The Taco Truck has multiple mobile units, including one in Boston but at the High Line, the wheels are traded in in favor for a seasonal pop-up concession stand. The Taco Truck bills itself as a tacqueria on wheels, utilizing organic and local products when available for its Mexican street cuisine. I chose the Carnitas Michoacan Torta – the pork tender and succulent, perfectly accented with cilantro; the egg bun light and airy yet sturdy enough to hold up to the filling. My beverage, of course, was Mexican Coca Cola, now that’s the real thing.

Carnitas Michoacan Torta

The Taco Truck   Upper Chelsea Market   W.15th & 10th Ave.   NYC

After our brush with culture and celebrity, it was time for an early dinner at Momofuku Ssäm Bar. David Chang, brilliant, creative, slightly crazed, has a number of spots offering his take on Asian cuisine. The Ssäm Bar is a small boîte that shares a long narrow space with Booker and Dax, Chef Chang’s venture into hipster mixology. I began with a cocktail; not just any cocktail but my favorite classic cocktail, The Martinez - granddaddy of the Martini. Being at Momofuku, I felt compelled to order the Steamed Buns – pork belly, hoisin sauce, cucumbers and scallions.  (It had turned out to be a pork-centric day.) They were awesome –  just as I expected them to be.

Pork Belly Buns

Next, from the section of the menu entitled “Off Cuts”, Veal Sweetbreads. The sweetbreads were served atop a smear of goat cheese accompanied by gingered asian pear, almonds and mint. The combination was ethereal: seemingly disparate elements melding into a composition of culinary adventure, genius and taste. (I’m still dreaming about them as I write this.) A fitting end to my day in the city.

Genius Veal Sweetbreads

Momofuku Ssäm Bar   207 2nd Ave. at 13th   NYC

Momofuku means “lucky peach”

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 Actually, Chef Sáenz needs no introduction to Boston, having spent time in the kitchens of both Spire and Great Bay.  He then decamped to the Cape and Islands for several seasons, working at The Straight Wharf on the Vineyard and most recently as the opening Executive Chef at Ten Tables in Provincetown. Then it was time to return to the metropolis, landing at LiNEaGe as Chef de Cuisine. Having worked with Jeremy Sewall, chef-owner of Lineage at Great Bay, it was an auspicious opportunity.  To celebrate Chef Sáenz’s arrival, the restaurant in collaboration with Nicole Kanner of All Heart PR threw a media dinner. I was fortunate to be invited. Though Julia may have gotten the food culture ball rolling, Alice Waters added the notion that cuisine should be seasonal and local. And so it is at Lineage: the evening’s menu showcasing the larder of our New England spring. We began with a welcoming cocktail of Mount Greylock Gin, Cocchi Americano, Creme de Violette and lemon juice. It was excellent, even converting some “gin skeptic” members of the group. Chef Sáenz  offered a few words of welcome -   then it was time for the food to do the talking. Before each course was served, though, he would appear briefly and succinctly explain the dish, answering whatever questions we had. What I found refreshing was his humility. The world of chefs has a plethora of overly egotistical denizens, a situation that gets tedious quickly. Fortunately, Chef Sáenz doesn’t present himself as a rock star.

The Menu

Fluke Cerviche

Fluke Cerviche
black quinoa, aji amarillo, pickled shallots

paired with Gatinois NV, Grand Cru Brut Champagne, Ay FR

The fluke had a clean fresh taste highlighted by its brief cure in Meyer lemon juice. The silken  fish provided  a canvas for the sweet and tart flavors of the dish – lemon, pepper, pickled shallots. The puffed quinoa was an unexpected crunchy contrast. I enjoyed the playful aspect of this dish- the bold colors of the shallots, pepper coulis and black quinoa. The pairing with the champagne – all apple and bread – worked well.

Wood Oven Roasted White Asparagus

panisse croutons, sauce gribiche, marcona almonds

paired with ’10 Henri Bourgeois, Sauvignon Blanc, “La Chapelle des Augustins”,  Sancerre FR

Roasting these beautiful asparagus intensified their delicate flavor perfectly. The fried chickpea croutons provided an earthy element; the Gribiche offering an herbal contrast while the almonds lent texture and sweetness. Though asparagus can  present a problem for pairing, this Sauvignon Blanc stood up to all the aspects of this course.

Scituate Scallops

Scituate Scallops
steamed clams, artichoke, locally foraged ramps

paired with ’12 County Line, Rosé of Pinot Noir, “Elke Home Ranch”, Anderson Valley CA

 A perfectly seared scallop – melting and sweet inside – paired with briney clams, braised artichokes, the distinctive flavor of grilled ramps, purple and yellow fingerling potatoes and crispy fried shallots equaled a well realized dish. The excellent rosé provided the right acidity and fruitfulness to both contrast with and compliment the dish.

Grilled Hangar Steak

Grilled Hangar Steak
spinach puree, spring vegetables, romesco

paired with ’06 Vina Alberdi, Temparanillo, Rioja SP

This course was visually stunning - and delicious! The intensely colored and flavored spinach puree perhaps a riff on steakhouse creamed spinach? The meat was full flavored, accented by the excellent rendition of the classic Spanish Romesco sauce. (Chef Sáenz using hazelnuts instead almonds). Springtime  came through with the accompanying vegetables – beets, baby carrots, peas and favas, all precisely cooked. The big wine – one of the wine lists outstanding bargains – was an excellent match to the grilled meat.

Fromage Blanc Cheesecake

Fromage Blanc Cheesecake
graham cracker crust, kumquats

paired with ’10 Brooks, Late Harvest Riesling, Eola-Amity Hills, OR

 And finally, dessert. This cheesecake – reminiscent of the “no- bake” cheesecakes I grew up with but exponentially better – was just right to end the meal. Fromage Blanc – similar to Greek yogurt – provided the lightness in this deconstructed dessert: graham cracker crust functioned as a garnish. The candied kumquats added a bright citrus note.

In addition to the great interplay of ingredients and textures throughout the meal, I was  impressed with the plating of each course. Chef Sáenz presents his cuisine in a bold and robust manner. There is none of the preciousnes of “tweezer cuisine”.

And a word about the wines. Amy Audette, General Manager of Lineage is like myself and my colleagues at WDWU an alum of Boston University’s Elizabeth Bishop Wine Program. Besides her duties as GM, she’s also the restaurant’s sommelier. Her choices for the evening were outstanding.

My thanks to Nicole Kanner and Liz Greene of All Heart, Jeremy and Lisa Sewall chef/owners of LiNEaGe and Chef Alex Sáenz whose tenure is Boston will be most notable.

LiNeaGe   242 Harvard St. Brookline MA

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Are food trucks the love child of “roach coaches” and “dirty water” dogs? Perhaps, since mobile food vending has a long history in the US starting with 17th century street food hawkers and continuing to the present with the recent explosion of food trucks. Evolving out of our burgeoning food culture – thank Julia for starting it all –  mobile dining has become part of the culinary landscape. Boston though was slow getting in gear, its citizens watching hungrily as the food truck movement developed on the West Coast, particularly in L.A. and Seattle. All that’s past. Boston now has a flotilla of trucks that motors out each day to provide tasty, creative and reasonably priced food in a mobile sort of way. Food trucks are here to stay.  While some truck operators go brick and mortar – Clover, Bon Me, Roxy and Mei Mei – some brick and mortar operators are going mobile – Paris Creperie, Area 4. And in a food culture that has a streak of competitiveness – “Iron Chef”, “Top Chef” and even the august “Bocuse d’Or” – why not a food truck throwdown pitting not only truck against truck, but city against city. And so in the friendly spirit of the Red Sox-Yankee rivalry, The Food Truckthrowdown – Boston Alliance vs. New York STReatS came to be on a gorgeous spring day on The Greenway.

I was fortunate to be invited by Vanessa Dones, account executive at EVINS, “brand architects”, to participate in a food truck crawl. Vanessa works with Maker’s Mark Bourbon to partner that brand with food truck chefs willing to incorporate a signature Maker’s Mark inspired item into their menu. Her work has certainly been successful: fourteen of the competing trucks had Maker’s Mark offerings. And one of the categories in the throwdown competition was for best Maker’s Mark themed item. Vanessa was a great crawl guide; I sampled nine Maker’s Mark items that were as wildly diverse as the food trucks themselves. We also got to speak with several of the food truck operators for a candid look at the mobile food business. And have I mentioned that Bourbon is my favorite brown spirit? Though reluctant to admit it, I was in “foodie heaven”.

THE LOWDOWN AT THE THROWDOWN

NEW YORK strEATs

• Momos & Buns – “Drunken” Dumpling
• Big D’s Grub – Maker’s Mark Rib Eye Taco
• Munchie Mobile – Bleu Dream Burger with Maker’s Mark Carmelized Onions
• Itizy’s – Brown Butter Maker’s Mark Ice Cream with Salted Caramel Swirl

BOSTON ALLIANCE

• Paris Creperie - Makers Mark Creme Brulée
• Mei Mei - Liver Pâté Cone with Maker’s Mark Gelée
• Roxy’s – Maker’s Mark Peach Marmalade & Triple Crème Melt
• Bon Me – Maker’s Mark & Palm Sugar Pulled Pork Sandwich
• Kickass Cupcakes – Mint Julep Cupcake with Maker’s Mark Icing

Though I didn’t stay for the competition and judging later in the afternoon, I did pick a winner. Though partial to burgers and impressed with “The Bleu Dream Burger” ftom Munchie Mobile, I went with the home team. My fave of the day was the pulled pork sandwich from Bon Me, a most savory way to enjoy Maker’s Mark.

And the winner is – Pulled Pork with Palm Sugar & Maker’s Mark with Napa Cabbage, Fuji Apple and Cilantro Slaw from Bon Me

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Ruth’s Chris Steak House at the beautiful Old Boston City Hall

Inevitably, spring comes to Boston. In fits and starts,  the earth warms, the grass greens and myriad buds unfurl. In juxtaposition, a wrenching week of watching evil, tragedy and loss unfold. If ever there was a time for a celebratory nod to the nascent season –  a joyous gathering a tavola celebrating the marriage of food and wine –  it was now. And so, on a New England perfect spring evening, I made my way to the “Coppola Spring Wine Celebration” at Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse for a media dinner.

The eveining was hosted by Marlow Daniel, Director of PR and Communications for “Francis Ford Coppola Presents”, assisted by both Clay M. Hall, Director of National Accounts, and Joseph Mattivello, New England Regional Manager. Francis Ford Coppola has two wineries – Niebaum-Coppola in Napa and Coppola Winery in Sonoma. While the Napa estate is now focused on producing a 100 point wine, the Sonoma property provides more everyday selections and it was these wines which were featured at the dinner. The highlight of the evening was having Coppola winemaker Corey Beck on hand to discuss the winery. Chef Andy Ortiz stepped out of the kitchen introducing each course;  Mr. Beck would then discuss the paired wine. Mr. Beck also made it a point to skillfully table-hop throughout the evening so all guests had the opportunity to chat with him.

Hand-Passed Hors D’Oeuvres

Seared Ahi served on a Crisp Cucumber and Fresh Tomato Bruschetta Crostini

Paired with 2011 Sofia Blanc de Blancs

“Sofia” – all dressed up and ready to pour

 This wine was Mr. Beck’s first assignment for the winery. Mr. Coppola wanted a fresh lively Prosecco-styled sparkling wine for the wedding of his daughter Sofia, the talented film director. And the wine accomplished those goals. Our mantra at WDWU  –  ”A sparkler sets the tone”.

First Course

Chilled Shellfish Salad
tiger shrimp, lump crabmeat, spring greens, white balsamic vinaigrette

Paired with 2011 Diamond Chardonnay

As the chef said, this was a riff on steak house salad but garnished with house poached shrimp

I’m not usually a fan of California Chardonnay which can often be a flabby rendition of Carmen Miranda’s hat. I was pleasantly surprised by this wine – ripe but not over-ripe fruit, judicious oak and a creaminess that melded well with the salad and vinaigrette.

Second Course

Wild Mushroom Risottos

cremini mushrooms, fresh thyme, Romano cheese

Paired with 2010 Votre Santé Pinot Noir

Perfect pairing – “forest floor” in both wine and mushrooms

 This course was my favorite pairing – and appropriately spring-like. This Pinot is restrained, owing more to Burgundy than California: fruitful but not overextracted with good acidity, moderate alcohol and mild tannins – a great food wine. The aromas of dried leaves, forest floor, mushroom and earth complimented the wild mushrooms in the risotto. The wine’s acidity a good foil to the richness of the dish.

Third Course

8 oz Filet* & Lobster Tail Rockefeller

stuffed with creamy spinach and Romano cheese

Served with potatoes au gratin and green beans

Paired with 2010 Diamond Claret

Surf’n'Turf with a Bordeaux via Cali accent

“ Claret” – have the French ever thanked the British properly for their role in promoting the wines of Bordeaux? Probably not. This wine contains all five Bordeaux varietals was hearty enough to accompany the steak but not so massive as to overpower the lobster.

Fourth Course

Chocolate Sin Cake & Fresh Berries

rich and sinful flourless chocolate cake

 Paired with 2010 Director’s Cut Cabernet

A beautiful dessert with a beautiful wine but not together

It’s become something of a fashion to pair chocolate and Cabernet. However, that pairing rarely works for me. The intensity and richness of the chocolate just defeats the wine. I believe some sugar – Port, Maury, Pedro Ximenez – is called for. Individually both the dessert and the wine were excellent just not together.

This had been a perfect way to celebrate the arrival of spring (hopefully!) and to gain a respite from the cruelty of the preceding week.

Kudos to both the team from Coppola Winery and the kitchen and wait staff at Ruth’s Chris Steak House for ensuring such an enjoyable and enlightening evening.

Ruth’s Chris Steak House     45School St.     Boston MA

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For 2013, Del Frisco’s Double Eagle Steakhouse is offering the “World of Wine” Dinner Series. Each dinner focuses on the wines of a notable wine region rather than on those of an individual producer. Del Frisco’s Boston kicked off the series on March 22nd with an evening featuring the wines of Napa Valley. I was fortunate to be invited by Mindy Valone of CM Communications to be a guest at the event. And what an event. Excellent examples of Napa Valley wines were paired with the excellent cuisine of Executive Chef Derek Berragan. It was both an “auspicious marriage of food and wine” and a most enjoyable way to be educated about the wines of Napa, particularly the Cabernet Sauvignons upon which the region has  built so much of its reputation. Our host for the evening was sommelier- trained Jay Foster, the restaurant’s Director of Wine . In his introductory remarks, he gave a brief history of Napa and its rise to producing renowned wines. The wines of Napa became prominent after the famous (or infamous, if you’re French) Paris tasting of 1976 in which upstart American wines equaled or bested their traditional French counterparts.  Since our focus was Cabernets, Mr. Foster explained the differences in various Napas Cabs by the locations of the vineyards where the grapes were grown. Valley fruit, mountain fruit, fruit from Rutherford or from Oakville –  all have different profiles. Before each course was set down, he would discuss the wine paired with the course and what made that wine  unique. The meal was perfectly paced; service was friendly yet professional; food and wine both outstanding. What better way to get an education!

FIRST COURSE

Green chili braised pheasant enchilada, blood orange, queso fresco
paired with Cliff Lede Sauvignon Blanc

Chef Berragan hails from Texas; he was mentored by Chef Tim Love (“urban western cuisine”). All that shows forth in the first course – an updated enchilada. The bright Sauvignon Blanc  – citrus, floral, melon – with creaminess and body from the addition of Semillon grapes –  played well with the spiciness of the dish. Though Chardonnay might be a given on any menu featuring Napa Valley wines, Sauvignon Blanc is also done well in the valley and its inclusion was a smart choice.

SECOND COURSE

Applewood smoked pork belly confit, caramelized Granny Smith grits, cardamom-sage jus
paired with Rombauer Cabernet Sauvignon

 This dish – a riff on  home-style roast pork served with apple sauce –  was outstanding. The apple-sweetened grits playing off the salty, rich pork belly. The black fruits and berries and restrained tannins and medium acidity of the Rombauer (yes – of cookbook fame) Cab worked well with this course.The fruit for this wine was sourced from various sites in Napa Valley.

THIRD COURSE

Australian lamb ribeye, local goat cheese bread pudding, wild berry lamb demi, watercress
paired with Nickel & Nickel CC Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon

In this course, Australia meets Rutherford. A bit more robust than the Rombauer, the Nickel & Nickel CC Ranch worked well with this tasty ribeye. The nose of this wine was the most distinct of the evening – can one smell minerality? The wild berry demi was a nod to the wine’s fruitfulness. In addition, the combination of lamb and the goat cheese in the bread pudding elevated this dish beyond the ordinary.

FOURTH COURSE

Prosciutto wrapped filet mignon, foie gras, russet-sweet potato gratin
paired with Dunn Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon

Steak, potatoes, big wine – this course was essential “steakhouse” –  and was excellent. The filet, tender and flavor-enhanced and fortified by the prosciutto, partnered well with the Dunn. The wine is made from mountain fruit which results in wines known for being structured and age-worthy. Though this wine is being drunk now, it will be better in several years. The care taken in constructing the gratin – two varieties of potatoes, spinach filling –  shows the skill of  Chef Berragan’s staff.

FIFTH COURSE

Lemon cupcake with lavender meringue
paired with Dolce by Far Niente

We finished with this moist, lemony cupcake whimsically decorated with confetti sprinkles. After four courses, it was perfect. As was the Dolce by Far Niente, which has for me a nostalgic association.  I first had the wine – an American Sauternes – at the now shuttered “Julia’s Kitchen” in the visionary center for wine, food and the arts – but now defunct –  Copia in Napa. The wine had been the conclusion to a long, wonderful tasting menu that had first introduced me to both California cuisine and wines.

“The World of Wine” Dinner Series continues with three additional dinners -

• June 7th – Bordeaux
• August 16th – Burgundy
• Oct. 25th – Northern Italy

Dinners are reasonably priced at $100++ and  reservations are a must . More info online.

Much thanks to Mindy Valone, Chef Barragan and Jay Foster.

DelFrisco’s Double Eagle Steakhouse    250 Northern Ave.     Boston MA

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Wahlbrewski

 While still in his teens, Paul Wahlberg knew what he wanted to do in life: he wanted to be a chef. After a childhood diet of good but unexciting Dorchester food, he had an epiphany at a Vietnamese restaurant. A dish of crispy whole fish opened his mind and palate to the endless possibilities of cuisine. Now he has his dream job. Three years ago in Hingham, he opened Alma Nova, a fine dining venue. (The name references his mother Alma and her nine children.) A year ago, he opened the casual, family-friendly burger joint Wahlburgers literally across the street. Life is good.

On March 19th, Wahlburgers hosted an event for bloggers,  “Wahlbloggers”, to showcase the restaurant. The evening was arranged by Mindy Valone, senior account executive at CM Communications. Our host was Chef Paul himself who spoke at length about himself, his credo as a chef and restauranteur. After establishing Alma Nova, he embarked on creating a casual restaurant which would appeal to diners of all ages. And what better way to do that than with a menu focused on burgers. Of course, since hospitality is foremost in his business plan, there are burger options for both pescatarians and vegetarians as well as salads, hot dogs, grilled cheese and chicken fingers for the burger-averse. He stressed his commitment to producing as much as he can in-house, such as sauces, salad dressings, pickles. What he does source out, he does mainly through local purveyors – meat comes from T.F.Kinnealey in Brockton, bread from Hearth Artisanal Breads of Plymouth, ice cream from Nona’s of Hingham. After Chef Paul’s introductory remarks, the moment of truth was at hand – time to chow down. I began with a Wahlbrewski, a proprietary unfiltered Pale Ale from Harpoon - a bit of malt, a bit of hops, just right. On to the salads.

BBQ Toss

Seared Fall Chicken

Chicken Caesar Salad

 Though all were delicious, I was partial to the BBQ Toss, while several of my fellow bloggers were quite vocal about the Seared Fall Chicken. Now, time for the main event – Burgers.

The first of many burgers

In all, we basically went through the entire burger menu; fortunately, we were offered scaled down versions of each item. All were well received particularly the Thanksgiving Burger (turkey patty, stuffing, orange cranberry sauce, roasted butternut squash), the Portobello Mushroom Cap Burger (portobello cap, caramelized onions, sauteed mushrooms, cheddar cheese, lettuce and tomato) and The Melt (burger between toasted thickly sliced bread, topped with government chesse, pickles, caramelized onions, bacon, mustard sauce). Government cheese? Much of the menu at Wahlburgers is a nod to the Wahlberg family story and government cheese is part of that. (If you don’t know what it is, google it.) In the end, even though there is a menu, Chef Paul ensures that diners get the burger their way: substitutions or special requests are no problem. And that belies Chef Paul’s philosophy – a focus on hospitality, not the chef’s ego.

It would be unfair not to mention the outstanding sides.  Tater Tots, Sweet Potato Tots and Onion Rings are definitely worth ordering.

Tater Tots & Sweet Potato Tots

Super Onion Rings

 We finished the evening with Frappes and Mojo Cupcakes. The frappe menu is extensive – particularly appealing are the “adult” frappes which have an alcoholic component. And for those Coca Cola aficionados, Wahlburgers offer Mexican Coke.

Mojo Cupcakes

As for expansion, Chef Paul said it was time to “go home”, i.e. Boston. He related how both he and Mayor Menino recently attended the same event. Hizzoner gave Chef Paul an earful about having set up shop in Hingham and NOT in Boston. (Hingham does get a bad rap sometimes.)

It was a great evening not just for burger-philes but for all who enjoy quality ingredients respectfully and skillfully prepared.

Many thanks to Mindy Valone, Rick Vanzura and especially Chef Paul.

Wahlburgers   19 Shipyard Drive   Hingham MA

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A singular cheese

Occasionally I find a cheese that should be served alone – a singular cheese which merits undivided attention and appreciation. “Winnimere” from Jasper Hill Farm  is such a cheese. Made only in winter when the milk from the farm’s Ayrshire cows achieves its highest fat content, the cheese is washed in beer from the neighboring Hill Farmstead Brewery, that cult favorite among beer geeks. Inspired by the classic European cheeses Försterekäse and Vacherin Mont d’Or, “Winnimere” is delicate: a band of spruce bark – cut from the farm’s own woodlot – enables the cheese to retain its shape. The rind is mottled with orange and white molds. For a washed rind cheese, the aroma is restrained. (No smelly socks here) When sampled, aromas and flavors of hay, butter, mustard and bacon come through; the bark adding a subtle perfume and taste. The texture is soft, unctuous, i.e. “gooey”. All in all, incredibly intense, full-flavored and satisfying. This cheeseplate provided the perfect dessert course.

A friend provided the wine to accompany the cheese: the 2011 Tenuta delle Terre Nere “Etna Rosso”. From Nerello Mascalese grapes grown in the volcanic soil of Mt. Etna in Sicily, this red wine complimented the cheese well. Floral and fruitful with good acidity and extra smooth tannins, the wine partnered agreeably with the both the cheese’s savory flavors and its richness.

Breakfast of champions

For breakfast, we enjoyed the remaining cheese spread on toast. By this point, the cheese had been at room temperature for 15 hours – its flavor now fully developed and the perfect cheese-lover’s way to start the day.

Cheese available at Central Bottle & Provision

Wine available at Gordon’s

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Jean-Charles Boisset: Our Charming and Fun Host for the Dinner at Aura

We started with JCB No. 21

Potato Cup with Herbed Chevre served with Jean-Charles Boisset #81 2010

Tuna Tartare Napoleon served with Bouchard Pouilly Fuisse 2011

Grilled Scallops with Crispy Polenta and Sauce Bouillabaisse was served with DeLoach OFS Pinot Noir 2010

Grilled Beef Shoulder Tenderloin was served with Raymond Napa Valley Cabernet 2009

Apple Pie with Aged Gouda with Neige Apple Ice Wine

The Aura Team – including Chef Robert Tobin (fourth from the left) – with Mr. Boisset

Boisset Family Estates Vintner Dinner Menu

Saturday, February 16, 2013

Reception Wine

Jean-Charles Boisset #21

Amuse

Jean-Charles Boisset #81 ‘10

Crispy Potato Cup with Herbed Chevre, Seaport Honey, Lavender

First Course

Bouchard Pouilly Fuisse ‘11

Tuna Tartare Napoleon with Almonds, Currants, Spanish Olives, Spicy Vinaigrette and Toasted Coconut

Second Course

DeLoach OFS Pinot Noir ‘10

Grilled Scallops with Crispy Polenta and “Sauce Bouillabaisse”

Third Course

Raymond Napa Valley Cabernet ‘09

Grilled Beef Shoulder Tenderloin with Smoked Barley Risotto, Bacon Lardons, Sweet Potatoes, Foraged Mushroom Sauce

Dessert

Neige Apple Ice Wine

Apple Pie with Aged Gouda, Caramel Sauce, Candied Walnuts

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The invitation from Liz Green of All Heart PR was just perfect – “Escape your winter woes with a Mezcal dinner at Saloon” – perfect for several reasons. First, I’d never been to Saloon and it was on my “go-to” list. Secondly, aside from a single wonderful cocktail at Brick and Mortar, I didn’t know much about Mezcal - but I’m ever the adventurous student. And finally, February had been a stormy, messy month. Accordingly, I rsvp’d with “Certainly!”.In best speakeasy fashion, the entrance to Saloon is unmarked; I had to ask for directions. Once inside, the prohibition vibe carried through with an abundance of dark carved wood, mirrors and mellow-yellow lighting: instant comfort. The dinner was in the bar’s semi-private dining room, a large alcove where the Mezcal seekers were comfortably seated. My tablemates were an interesting and lively group – two young women nearly arrived in Boston looking for the lowdown on the best restaurants and night spots and a couple most knowledgeable in Boston’s food and cocktail culture.  As we were seated, the friendly staff presented us with a welcoming cocktail. Next, Manny Gonzales, Saloon‘s Beverage Director, offered a concise overview of Mezcal and its production. And then we were off on our Mezcal adventure.

Our Welcoming Cocktail – A well balanced mix of Mezcal, St.Germaine, grapefruit juice and sparkling wine.

First course

Spicy Shrimp Tostados

Paired with

Oaxacan Sour – Mezcal with muddled avocado, lime and clementine, egg white and soda splash

Second Course

Carnitas & Chorizo Rellenos

Paired With

Pascal’s Fire – Mezcal, Spanish brandy infused with winter squash, Carpano, Tequila infused with cocoa & jalepeno, chocolate mole bitters and Spiced Dram

Third Course

Almond Cajeta Flan with Candied Squash

Paired with

Cabritas y Almendras - Mezcal, Benedictine, house-made almond goat’s milk, Mexican coffee with a Galleta Flaca (“skinny cookie”)

By the end of the dinner – and after four cocktails – I had a much better understanding and appreciation of Mezcal and the various ways it lends itself to a wide range of cocktails.

• The “Welcoming Cocktail” was smoky and vegetal, yet balanced by the sweet floral attributes of St. Germaine; the grapefruit juice which can ruin a cocktail with its brashness played a subdued background role; the sparkling wine gave a lift of lightness.
• “The Oaxacan Sour” was smooth, rich and bright – attributes of the avocado, egg white and citrus. (At last, a smoothie I could get excited about!)
• “Pascal’s Fire” was fiery – as one of my tablemates said it was like a fireball – it began mellow then ratcheded up the heat to end quite tropicale. Also, I love the “cola” flavors and depth that Carpano adds to a cocktail.
• And finally, “Cabritas y Almendras” – a wonderfully updated riff on the (oft infamous) “International Coffees” of the previous century.

Enough of this mixology geekiness. This was a fine dinner. Though the food was advertised as “small plates”, the servings were abundant – and excellent. All the courses were well done – flavorful and carefully prepared. Kudos to Chef Clough and his caballeros. And value-wise, it was a steal – four cocktails, three courses all for $35! (For more info on upcoming themed dinner at Saloon, check out the website.)

Additional thanks to Manny Gonzales and his staff of bartenders for this intro to Mezcal and Liz Green for the generous invitation.

The post “Escape Your Winter Woes with a Mezcal Dinner at Saloon” appeared first on WineDineWith.us.

The Del Frisco Wine Book

Del Frisco’s bona fides? The steakhouse  has a cellar comprising 1300 labels and 10,000 bottles and has been awarded with the Wine Spectator Best of Award of Excellence for its wine list. We were impressed with the wines being offered – particularly Kermit Lynch’s collaborative Chablis “Les Truffières”,  Pieropan “La Rocca”, Chateau Deyrem Valentin and Nickel and Nickel CC Ranch Cabernet. The dinners are priced at $100++ and reservations are required. The first dinner celebrating Napa Valley is March 22nd. More info/details about the “World of Wine” dinner series at Del Frisco’s can be accessed at the restaurant’s website.

The menu for the Napa evening is worth perusing (and savoring) -

1st -  Cliff Lede Sauvignon Blanc

Green chile braised pheasant enchilada, blood orange, queso fresco

2nd -  Rombauer Cabernet

Applewood smoked pork belly confit, caramelized granny Smith grits, cardamom-sage jus.

3rd -  Nickel and Nickel CC Ranch Cabernet

Australian lamb ribeye, local goat cheese bread pudding, wild berry lamb demi,watercress.

4th  – Dunn Howell Mountain Cabernet

Prosciutto wrapped filet mignon, foie gras, russet-sweet potato gratin

Dessert -  Dolce by Far Niente

Lemon cupcake with lavender meringue.

(Vintages to be confirmed around the date of the dinner)

The post Out & About – the “World of Wine” Dinner Series at Del Frisco’s appeared first on WineDineWith.us.