Pecorino, pecorino.....and more pecorino
Customarily, I finish a pasta or even a risotto with a generous grating of Pecorino Romano rather than Parmesan. I love the earthy dimension this cheese adds to these dishes. However, Romano, my simple grating cheese, is only one style of Pecorino, a family of cheeses though differing in style are all made with sheep’s milk. Central Bottle Wine + Provisions recently offered a class that gave an in-depth look at this cheese family – in actuality, a feast of Pecorino. The outstanding selection was assembled by Central Bottle’s cheesemonger Stephanie Santos. Cheesemonger extraordinaire Matt Rubiner was to be a co-presenter of the class but car trouble left him stranded on the side of the Pike. However, Stephanie’s commanding knowledge of the cheeses enabled her to hold forth eloquently even in his absence. Pecorinos are made up and down the boot of Italy. The evening’s selections came from Sardinia, Tuscany, Campania and Sicily, ranging stylistically from young and fresh to aged to even smoked. The beer and wine selections – well received on their own and well paired with the cheeses – were a collaboration with Maureen Rubino, Central Bottle manager, and Liz Vilardi, resident wine guru, and featured both familiar Italian grapes and more esoteric varietals. The evening began on a casual note with Stephanie’s version of “Beer and Pretzels”, “Field Mouse’s Farewell” with Pecorino Pepato – Pecorino studded with peppercorns – the malt and grain in the ale playing wonderfully with the salt and spice in the cheese. And then it was on to serious tasting. Some highlights of the evening -
- While producers are important in the production of Pecorino, the “houses” or affineurs determine the quality of the cheeses – an old notion in Europe, only now gaining serious impetus in America. The two houses represented in the class – Guffanti and Casa Madaio – are the premier affineurs of Italian Pecorino.
- The most controversial cheese of the evening was the Fiore Sardo, a rustic smoked cheese that proved challenging to some. Yet the cheese’s extreme piquancy was mediated by the fruity, vibrant Argiolas Cannonau Rosato. ( Actually, I think the wine converted one of the guests to the pink side.)
- For those interested in pairing condiments with cheese, Stephanie accompanied the Ruffanti Marzalino with a wonderful New Zealand honey produced from the flowers of the rata tree. The honey is available at Follow the Honey in Harvard Square. Extremely delicious!
- My favorite pairing of the evening was the outlier. Right in the middle of the tasting was the incongruity of the class – a Pecorino from Bellweather Farm in Petaluma CA paired with the well oaked and ripe Chardonnay from Belle Pente in the Willamette Valley OR. Both were creamy and well balanced; together, it was the most elegant pairing of the class.
- While Stephanie’s choice of cheeses and her presentation made for a most informative and enjoyable class, an added bonus was the interaction of those attending. Class members spoke freely and animatedly about their likes and dislikes, what worked and what didn’t work – all resulting in a spirited conversation.
For those interested in deepening their knowledge of cheese, classes at Central Bottle provide the perfect opportunity – a relaxed friendly setting, well selected cheeses and spirits and a knowledgeable staff. The next class – a cheese and beer pairing – is happening on June 27th.
- The class selection
The cheeses and their accompaniments
Guffanti Pepato Siciliano with Pretty Things “Fieldmouse’s Farewell”
Guffanti Marzalino with Carfagna Ansonoco
Casa Madaio Cinerino with Valdiperti Fiano di Avellino
Bellweather Farms “San Andreas” with Belle Pente Chardonnay
Fiore Sardo with Argiolas Cannonau Rosato
Casa Madaio Calcagno with Sella e Mosca Cannonau
Guffanti Pecorino di Pienza Gran Riserva with Barbi Rosso di Montalcino
Central Bottle Wine + Provisions 194 Mass Ave Cambridge MA
by glenn on April 16, 2012
A candid counter view - clockwise from lower left - "Barely Buzzed", "Drunk Monk", Point Reyes "Original Blue", "Four Corners"
The impetus for this cheese plate came from a class – and the ensuing discussion – at Central Bottle + Provisions, “Old World vs. New World”, presented by cheesemonger Stephanie Santos. The question – just how do American cheeses compare to European cheeses? Not so long ago, my opinion was that on the whole European cheeses were superior and few American cheeses their match. Yet like a presidential candidate, my opinion has evolved. I’ve come to see that American cheeses should be judged on their own merits and not in comparison to European cheeses. While some American cheeses are modeled on prestigious European brands, the American terrior changes them; others are unique creatures. Thus, with the intention of composing a cheese course that would highlight the excellence of American cheeses, I presented this plate for a recent Easter-Passover celebration I attended. To add a twist to my composition, I decided to use all cow’s milk cheeses. [click to continue…]
by glenn on February 23, 2012
From left to right - Rappleree, Ada's Honor, Mossend
Time for the yearly mid-winter birthday bash – my contribution the cheese course; so off to Central Bottle+Provision to confer with cheesemonger Stephanie Santos about which cheeses were showing well. I did have a rough outline of my cheese plate: it would be somewhat traditionalist – structured around the trinity – cow, sheep, goat – while encompassing a diverse variety of styles. With Stephanie’s guidance, I was able to assemble a cheese plate which pleased not only me, but more importantly, those who eventually consumed it.
- Ada’s Honor, Ruggles Hill Creamery, Hardwick MA. I’d recently been introduced to the cheeses form Ruggles Hill Creamery, enjoyed them and wanted to share them with friends. Additionally, I wanted a soft ripened goat cheese – in mid-winter a reminder that spring is coming. Like all three cheeses I assembled, Ruggles Hill cheeses are farmstead, i.e. the farm produces cheese only from the milk of its own herd. Ada’s Honor, modeled on the French Chabicou, is pure white, creamy about the rind, crumbly within. The flavor delicate – lemony, a bit herbaceous. Perfect to begin the cheese course.
- Rappleree, Cato Corner Farm, Colchester CT. Since my dining companions especially savor washed rind cheeses, I wanted to include a stinker. I found it in Rappleree – a raw milk cheese washed with apple marc from Westford Hill Distillers. Redolent of apples, ivory hued, creamy near liquid beneath the rind, then giving way to a pliant center and like many washed rinds, with a distinct meaty character. I found this cheese very approachable. For those leery of stinkers, this is a gentle introduction. Originally, I was not a fan of Cato Corner Farm but their cheeses have continually improved over the years.
- Mossend, Bonnie View Sheep Diary, Craftsbury VT. Blue sheep cheese is a style that seems to have eluded American cheese makers – at least, that’s been my experience – so I was intrigued with this cheese. Made by Neil Urie who studied with Vermont – no, make that American – cheese making legend David Major, this is the blue for which I’d been looking. Pale gold with beautiful blue green veins – what the French would term persillé – this raw milk cheese is both rustic and sublime. When I sampled the cheese inhouse, it had a somewhat grainy texture. However, after ripening for eight hours at room temperature, the texture became quite smooth. The aroma has a bit of the barnyard. Initially crumbly, the paste becomes creamy in the mouth. There’s a wonderful touch of sweetness which plays well with the earthiness of the mold. Definitely a cheese to try.
These cheeses available at
Central Bottle+Provision 196 Mass Ave Camb MA
by glenn on January 20, 2012
Cheesemonger Stephanie Santos
For me, this was the perfect evening (but then, I’m hardly typical) - comparing and contrasting ten cheeses, five Old World classics with five New World cheeses derived from those classics, all under the tutelage of Stephanie Santos, cheesemonger at Central Bottle. The theme of the class had intrigued me; my thoughts concerning European versus American cheeses have been evolving. At one point, I’d felt that European cheeses were the pinnacle and that American cheeses poor imitations. Over time, though,my hard line has softened – while some European cheeses could and should be considered classics, American cheeses should be judged on their own merits. That being said I still feel that some American cheeses fall short; however, the Europeans have been making cheese for thousands of years and the cheese renaissance in the US is barely thirty years old. So how would Stephanie design the class – as a competition or as a comparison? I was intrigued.
We began the class by being offered a choice of beverage – an American Riesling from the Fingers Lake, a red French blend or a Belgian Lambic. Since the temperature had been falling all day, I chose the 2008 “Les Cimels” from Chateau d’Oc et des Gueules in Nîmes, a Syrah-dominant blend which was bright, fruity, spicy and herbal – a hit of French sunshine for a chilly New England evening and with the fruit and acidity, a good companion to cheese.
The class comprised five types of cheeses. First up were the fresh goat cheeses followed by aged goat, sheep, washed rind and finally blue cheeses. Stephanie had stated that she has been thinking about this class for years yet had only hit upon the final presentation recently due to what was available and good at the moment. All her choices were excellent. Stephanie would introduce the cheeses, we would taste and then she would elicit responses from the group. Fortunately, my classmates were not shy but expressive - all had opinions they were willing to share. Interestingly, we were all split whether we liked the European or American expression of each cheese. Throughout, she shared much information about the cheeses we were tasting. For the last two pairings – the washed rind and blue cheeses – we were offered the Lambic, the Lindemans Black Cherry Kriek. The two washed rinds were extremely runny and unctuous; the cherries and the mild carbonation a good foil to their buttery and meaty richness. And the sweetness of the Lambic paired nicely with the blues, as sweetness always does.
Since Vermont has been the locus of much of the current cheese revival, Stephanie included five cheeses from the Green Mountain State – though perhaps it should be renamed the Green Pasture State. She spent time discussing the vital role that the Mateo brothers of Jasper Hill Farm are playing in American cheese making. She included two of their cheeses in the evening’s line-up – Winnimere, perhaps the best cheese of the class and the near iconic Bayley Hazen blue.
Stephanie and Central Bottle will be offering more cheese classes during the coming year. Why not stop in, chat about cheese and sign up for a class?
Central Bottle + Provisions
196 Mass. Ave. Camb. MA
617-225-0040
by glenn on December 13, 2011
A most captivating cheese
Typically, when I compose a cheese plate, I chose three different cheeses in order to contrast or compare. I usually begin by deciding which of the cow-sheep-goat trinity to present – one, two or all three. Next, I think about styles – fresh, cooked, aged, washed rind, bloomy rind, natural rind. Seasonality is a further consideration – in spring, a selection of fresh chevres; in winter, perhaps a stinker, a robust blue and one of the incomparable sheep’s milk cheeses from the Pyrennees. Though some may offer “one perfect cheese”,in order to savor a single cheese, that has never been my wont. Until now. At the Holiday Cheese Tasting held recently at Central Bottle and Provision, I was introduced to Harbison from Jasper Hill Farm in Greensboro VT. As cheesemonger Stephanie Santos pointed out to me, the cheese combines the dairy’s Winnimere and Moses Sleeper – banded in spruce like the former, bloomy rind like the latter. The cheese is named after Ann Harbison, one of the leading lights of Greensboro. Since the white paste presents in a near liquid state, the spruce bark band keeps the cheese intact. Though the milk is pasteurized – the cheese is only aged 3-6 weeks - the flavor is rich and herbal. Near the bark band, the flavor woodsy; nearer the center, I detected a pleasant spicy mustard flavor. Whatever lush autumn pasturage the Jasper Hill cows were grazing on this fall, the result are quite excellent. After I purchased the cheese, I kept it at room temperature for eight hours to ensure the cheese’s creamy texture. For serving, I sliced off the top rind – like some Spanish tortas, it should be eaten with a spoon. I served with my favorite crackers – Castleton Crackers Whole Wheat. Harbison is a great addition to any holiday gathering.
After the party's over
Available year round and available now at Central Bottle and Provision
by glenn on December 12, 2011
The season of festivities is underway. Are you hosting a holiday gathering for friends, family, co-workers? Are you experiencing “menu anxiety”? If this be the case, turn to Whole Foods River Street to make your party menu planning stress-free. The store can assist you in designing a menu and even providing beverage selections for all budgets and diet preferences. To showcase its seasonal catering menu, the River St. Market held a Bloggers Holiday Showcase Friday Dec. 12 for Boston-area bloggers.
The evening was hosted by David Remillard – social media person for the River Street market - who was joined by the lovely Claire Davies – social media person from the Fresh Pond store.
We were presented with an array of foods from the store’s various departments. First up, a selection of various themed and priced cheese trays; since every party needs a liquid component, a wine and beer station; next, a variety of hot appetizers, including vegetarian options; then, seafood appetizers which featured – for me at least – the winning hors d’ouevre of the event, house-smoked baby octopus tossed with agave syrup and cayenne – a perfect item for any Feast of Seven Fishes; and since no event is complete without dessert, a selection of petit pastries from the Whole Foods Bakehouse. To provide additional merriment to the evening, we were invited to participate in a store-wide scavenger hunt – the inducement a $150 prize. To complete the affair, we were given gift bags as we departed. Upon arriving home, I was pleased to find among the thoughtful items a box of truffles. How long will I be able to resist them? And should I even try?
And me being me – and not Manny – I positioned myself between the cheese station and the beverage station. The wines featured both reds and whites and covered a range of price points. At the “extreme value” end were two selections from the Whole Foods proprietary label “Three Wishes”. Mid-range in the line up were a cava and one of my favorite Loire Valley whites, the 2009 Cave de Saumur “Les Pouches”. The selection was topped off by my fave of the offerings, the 2009 Bodega Bernaveleva Navaherros, an old vine Garnacha, organic and biodynamic. The one beer being poured was the Peak Organic Winter Session Ale. This tasty wheat beer, like any good session beer, was easy drinking. And at 5% ABV, it won’t threatened to ruin the party with overly boisterous behavior. Yet what impressed me most was its compatibility with the cheeses. Too often, folks try to do a wine and cheese match up, when beer is the better partner.
The Everyday Value cheese platter
And finally, the pièce de resistance, the cheese displays. Nationally, Whole Foods has a strong cheese division. Cathy Strange, Global Cheese Buyer and past president of the American Cheese Society, has been the force behind the strength, diversity and quality of the cheeses that Whole Foods offers. Their partneship with Hervé Mons – négociant and affineur extraordinaire – is exemplary of their commitment as are their relationships with small producers. On the local level, however, the cheese department shines or not depending upon its Team Leader. At River St., it does, thanks to Mike Clark, Specialty Team Leader. Since his arrival at River St. four years ago, he’s done much to upgrade the cheese selection, presentation and care of the cheeses. Frankly, though, Mike should be entitled “Cheesemonger” since that shows a more appropriate respect for his experience and knowledge. Mike and his staff presented three trays – an 365 Everyday Value platter – which was indeed a good value; a “Local” platter featuring among other items, Great Hill Blue, assorted chevre from Vermont Butter and Cheese, the now ubiquitous but always wonderful Moses Sleeper from Jasper Hill Farm -which, I might add, was quite well ripened - and the Team-made Cheddar – made by members of various Whole Food stores – from Grafton Village Cheese. And lastly, the “Connoisseur” tray with an fine selection of domestic and European cheeses. Also featured were Raincoast Crisps, a great accompaniment to cheese.
It was a great opportunity for Whole Foods River Street to show those who write about food the options that the store offers for easy holiday entertaining.
Many thanks to David Remillard – it was great to see the person behind the tweets!
Cute and delicious - chocolate glazed bite-size brownies topped with buttercream, a strawberry cap and an icing pompom
by glenn on December 5, 2011
As Bubble said to Eddy, “Party, party, party, party”. The end- of- the-year season of celebration is upon us. If you’re hosting a gathering, rather than overly stressing yourself by attempting to recreate the menu at Per Se, relax and offer a few well chosen cheeses and various accoutrements – mostardas, olives, white anchovies, breads. Select wines – or beers - which are cheese-friendly and your menu is complete. Be wary of serving spirits, though! Cocktails+holiday stress=bad behavior. As James Brown said, “Papa don’t want no mess”.
So if you’re shopping for holiday fare, do as I do and head to Central Bottle and Provision to consult with the cheesemongers – not one but two – David Seaton and Stephanie Santos.
To showcase the store’s excellent cheese selection, Central Bottle hosted a tasting on Saturday Dec. 3. The cheesemongers offered seven cheeses for consideration, all first rate and delicious. The selections ranged from fresh cheeses – the visually arresting ash-coated Tronchetto Carbone from Piedmont Italy – to soft, bloomy rind cheeses – such as the superb Moser Cru Blanc from Switzerland – to aged tomme-style cheese – the Springbrook Tarentaise from Vermont – to the requisite blue – an English Stilton. A selection of three or four of these cheeses would make a spectacular holiday spread.
And since beverages complete the menu, Carl Thelander from Ruby Wines was pouring a varied selection of cheese-friendly wines. I particularly liked the 2005 Charles Schleret Pinot Blanc – bright, light-bodied, off-dry, perfect with fresh or soft cheeses; also notable, the 2008 Domaine Cheveau Or Rouge Beaujolais-Villages, suitable for cheeses needing a fruity complement.
Make your holiday party easy and delicious by making your menu cheese-centric. And by the way, cheese makes a great gift for food-loving friends and family.
Cheesemongers David Seaton and Stephanie Santos
The tasting line-up
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Robiola Incavolata, goat’s milk, Piedmont Italy
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Tronchetto Carbone, goat’s milk, Piedmont Italy
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Sage Farm Selection – Sterling and Madonna, goat’s milk, Stowe, Vermont
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Moser Cru Blanc, cow’s milk, Dotzigen, Switzerland
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Harbison, cow’s milk, Greensboro, Vermont
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Springbrook 2 Year Tarentaise, cow’s milk, Reading, Vermont
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Stilton, cow’s milk, Nottinghamshire, England
