by glenn on February 3, 2012
Burger Basics 101
I’ve revealed that my burger quest began once upon a time at Wendy’s. And though my tastes have evolved since then, revisiting one’s roots can provide perspective. A friend suggesting we meet for lunch provided an opportunity to review Burger Basics 101 – a visit to Five Guys became the plan. Five Guys is “fast food” but not “grab-n-go” food; that is, the burgers are made to order. The burgers come in two size – one patty or two patties. The options are with or without cheese, with bacon or with bacon and cheese. A laundry list of toppings – all free – allows further customization. Perhaps in deference to inclusivity, there are a few vegetarian options, though why a vegetarian would come to a burger joint is unfathomable UNLESS it were for the Five Guys fries. (More about those later.) I realized that my usual grading system would have to be canned – for Basic Burgers, it would be “Thumbs Up/Thumbs Down”. I ordered a regular bacon cheeseburger with lettuce, tomatoes, pickles and barbeque sauce. And this is how it went down….. [click to continue…]
by glenn on January 20, 2012
Cheesemonger Stephanie Santos
For me, this was the perfect evening (but then, I’m hardly typical) - comparing and contrasting ten cheeses, five Old World classics with five New World cheeses derived from those classics, all under the tutelage of Stephanie Santos, cheesemonger at Central Bottle. The theme of the class had intrigued me; my thoughts concerning European versus American cheeses have been evolving. At one point, I’d felt that European cheeses were the pinnacle and that American cheeses poor imitations. Over time, though,my hard line has softened – while some European cheeses could and should be considered classics, American cheeses should be judged on their own merits. That being said I still feel that some American cheeses fall short; however, the Europeans have been making cheese for thousands of years and the cheese renaissance in the US is barely thirty years old. So how would Stephanie design the class – as a competition or as a comparison? I was intrigued.
We began the class by being offered a choice of beverage – an American Riesling from the Fingers Lake, a red French blend or a Belgian Lambic. Since the temperature had been falling all day, I chose the 2008 “Les Cimels” from Chateau d’Oc et des Gueules in Nîmes, a Syrah-dominant blend which was bright, fruity, spicy and herbal – a hit of French sunshine for a chilly New England evening and with the fruit and acidity, a good companion to cheese.
The class comprised five types of cheeses. First up were the fresh goat cheeses followed by aged goat, sheep, washed rind and finally blue cheeses. Stephanie had stated that she has been thinking about this class for years yet had only hit upon the final presentation recently due to what was available and good at the moment. All her choices were excellent. Stephanie would introduce the cheeses, we would taste and then she would elicit responses from the group. Fortunately, my classmates were not shy but expressive - all had opinions they were willing to share. Interestingly, we were all split whether we liked the European or American expression of each cheese. Throughout, she shared much information about the cheeses we were tasting. For the last two pairings – the washed rind and blue cheeses – we were offered the Lambic, the Lindemans Black Cherry Kriek. The two washed rinds were extremely runny and unctuous; the cherries and the mild carbonation a good foil to their buttery and meaty richness. And the sweetness of the Lambic paired nicely with the blues, as sweetness always does.
Since Vermont has been the locus of much of the current cheese revival, Stephanie included five cheeses from the Green Mountain State – though perhaps it should be renamed the Green Pasture State. She spent time discussing the vital role that the Mateo brothers of Jasper Hill Farm are playing in American cheese making. She included two of their cheeses in the evening’s line-up – Winnimere, perhaps the best cheese of the class and the near iconic Bayley Hazen blue.
Stephanie and Central Bottle will be offering more cheese classes during the coming year. Why not stop in, chat about cheese and sign up for a class?
Central Bottle + Provisions
196 Mass. Ave. Camb. MA
617-225-0040
by glenn on January 19, 2012
1265 Boylston St. Boston MA
Katrin had a Groupon. She said she’d heard the place had good burgers but she wouldn’t tell me the name until I agreed to go. But in a flash of intuition, I realized it was “Jerry Remy’s” and yes, I did want to go if only to catch some gossip about the Fall (from Grace) or the 2012 season.
Order these!
I began with the Jerry Remy’s “Life’s 2 Short” red wine, a proprietary wine made on the Vineyard. Fortunately, it was not the high alcohol fruit bomb I was expecting but rather a quiet and agreeable light red. On to the food. I don’t eat enough onion rings, though my stomach would prefer I eat none. I couldn’t resist though and we ordered the beer-battered rings as a starter. Due to miscommunication on our part with the bartender, our entrees came at the same time. Though he offered to take them away until we were ready for them, we declined and charged ahead. Back to the rings. Crisp and tasty, offset with two contrasting condiments – cool ranch dressing and spicy chipotle aioli – they were quite good – good crunch to the beer batter – meltingly soft onions inside.
I didn’t want to keep my entree waiting while I was savoring the rings, so I tucked into that. Not surprisingly, I’d ordered the Remy Burger. This burger is quite the production and so I’ll begin with a bit of deconstruction. [click to continue…]
by glenn on January 5, 2012
Worth crossing the river for
It was my usual scenario - after an exciting visit to the List Center for Visual Arts, I had worked up an appetite (the paradigm – viewing art = hunger). The two exhibitions at the List were wonderful; first, a recreation of a show Hans Haacke had mounted at MIT in 1967; and secondly, a synchronized installation of Otto Piene’s – longtime director of the List – light sculptures, Lichtballett. Truly, one of the best shows in Boston of the fall season. But enough art chatter – it was time to eat so I headed over to Firebrand Saints, which isn’t the name of an obscure British football team but a joint venture between Chef Gary Strack of Central Kitchen and MIT. (Time for the disclaimer – the GM of Firebrand Saints Morgan Bigley was the chef at our Sunday Night Supper Clubs.) Moving on – however,the art chatter isn’t over since the decor of the resto is ART! I have an ambivalent attitude about restaurant interior design – I always feel I’m being seduced into liking the eatery more than I might. Some do go for the sparkle and shine, glitz and glamour but as for me, it’s art. Anyway, there were three pieces at Firebrand Saints that enchanted me – a video installation above the bar, a video projection on an adjoining wall and an amusing piece of wall art/street art/post-graffitti in an alcove. When I finally checked out the intriguingly casual menu, I was pleased to see an entire section devoted to BURGERS. In fact, with the various enhancements to customize one’s burger, this section took up nearly half of the menu! (Just what is purple mustard?) In all, there are six burgers – four incorporating beef, pork or lamb in various combinations, the requisite mushroom burger and fried haddock. (I should have inquired about this fish “burger”, but didn’t.) Between gazing at the art and mulling over all my burger options and permutations, I finally ordered. My choice -
Lamb & Sirloin – spicy pickles, frizee & harissa aioli $9
From the excellent beer menu, I ordered a Pretty Things “St. Botolphe’s Town”.
by glenn and katrin on December 29, 2011
A beacon for 'que seekers
GLENN – This sign shines like a beacon up and down Boylston St. calling all ‘que lovers – smack in the middle of Boston’s newest restaurant scene, The Fenway. Was this the most anticipated restaurant opening in Boston this season, edging out Catalyst across the river in the Republic? Whatever – we were finally dining here. I always wait awhile before venturing out to a new place – I don’t like to be paying to be part of the shake-down period. At Sweet Cheeks Q, that period of ironing out the quirks of menu and service issues is way past. We were there on a Tuesday night, the joint was jumping, slamming, at full throttle – with neither kitchen or front of the house missing a beat. Enough of gastropubs, auteur restos, cocktail scenes – time to get extremely down home and just a bit white trashy.
KATRIN – Yes, I agree that it’s time for great food without the attitude – especially at restaurants where the over-the-top pretentiousness risks making a parody of the cuisine and the entire experience. I have lived in the Fenway for several years and am delighted in how the neighborhood has emerged as a dining destination. Gone are the days of having to go to the South End or Back Bay in order to eat something other than burgers or Italian. To have star chef Tiffani Faison, whose food I greatly enjoyed at Rocca, come to the Fenway is just awesome!
GLENN -As soon as we were seated, we were informed by our server that this was Texas ‘que 
- the meat, given a spice rub and cooked in a smoker, is served “dry”, the diner choosing the sauce with which to douse the meat. And what would we like to drink? I chose an amazing Manhattan riff, a wonderful concoction of Weller Bourbon, Sapling Vermont Maple Liqueur, Urban Moonshine Maple Bitters and a brandied cherry. For those like me who prefer Manhattans on the sweet side, the drink perfect – and the maple flavor intriguing. The woman seated next to us at the communal table goaded us to order the Bucket O’ Biscuits as a starter – “They’re as big as your head” she said. Unless you’re Zippy, they weren’t – but what they were were wonderfully light and fluffy. And they came with honey butter(!).
KATRIN - I sensed that Glenn was a bit reluctant to order the biscuits, but fortunately gave in. They were huge and I enjoyed my leftover biscuit for breakfast the next morning.
GLENN – There’s a slew of ordering options – I choose a tray of Great Northern Brisket. Trays come with one hot scoop, one cold scoop, two slices of white bread, pickles and onions. For my hot scoop, I chose Cita’s Broccoli Cheese Casserole - who’s Cita I wondered? a Southern church lady, a roadhouse maven or a cook’s mother? My cold scoop was a carrot and raisin salad, a dish I dimly recall from my mid-century childhood, but unlike that dish, this came with cilantro and blue cheese. Beer is my beverage of choice for ‘que, though there is the option of a white and a red on tap from Gotham Project. I ordered the Stormy Seas “Winter Storm Category 5″ from Clipper City Brewing. Though the brewery is headquartered in Baltimore, our server informed us that it was brewed in Gloucester.
KATRIN - The fun of dining at communal tables, especially in a restaurant that is boisterous and loud, is talking to others at the table. The parties on both sides of us were more than eager to give us their thoughts, recommendations, and critiques pretty much as soon as we sat down. 
After weighing the options, I also chose a tray – pulled pork was my meat choice, with farmer’s salad and mac ‘n cheese as my cold and hot scoops respectively. The pork was nothing short of perfect! Deeply flavorful and well-seasoned, I loved the fact that it came dry since I generally don’t care for food swimming in sauce. I added a bit of barbeque sauce to the side of my plate to taste it, but honestly, this tender and tasty meat doesn’t need it. The farmer’s salad with leaves of Brussels sprouts and greens in a light dressing highlighted by sharp Parmesan cheese was very good and the mac ‘n cheese was good but somewhat unremarkable. I’ll order a different hot scoop next time. I washed it all down with a Kentucky Bourbon Barrel Ale. I’m not much of a beer drinker, but this brew it might just make a convert out of me.
GLENN – And my assessment? My brisket was succulent – a word I never thought I’d use in conjunction with brisket – with great flavor from the rub. The broccoli cheese casserole was extremely tasty but for the veggie vigilant, this is not crisp and hyper green broccoli. The carrot salad was a contrast between the sweetness of the raisins – both dark and golden – the funk of the blue cheese, the earthiness of the cilantro all offset by the crunch of the carrots. And that brew? The brewery describes it as an “Imperial ESB” – whatever it may be, it was perfect with my ‘que.
KATRIN - Overall, Sweet Cheeks is a fantastic addition to not only the Fenway, but also to the Boston dining scene. I can’t wait to return!
by glenn on December 20, 2011
Part of a series looking back at the best – and occasionally the worst – of 2011
Happily for me, the tsunami of burger-centric dining continues. Burgers now abound in myriad iterations – “obsessive foodie” (Craigie on Main); “burger palace” (5 Napkins);” no frills plain and simple” (Tasty Burger); “patty geometry” (The Gallows’ flat patty); and now “celebrity burgers” (Marky Mark in his CKs flipping burgers down in Hingham).
However, I didn’t find my “Burger of the Year” at any of these joints but rather in two mainstays of the Boston restaurant scene. Two mainstays? – yes – since there is not one but two burgers taking honors.
First, the burger at Sel de La Terre. When I wrote my assessment, I wondered whether this is the perfect burger. It may well be. Sel de La Terre is a genteel – in the best sense of the word – resto. If you need a break from holiday hoopla – I usually use another somewhat crass word – take yourself there and recharge.
The perfect burger?
And tied for first place, the burger from Ten Tables Provincetown. When I ate this burger in the bar of Krista Kranyak’s P-Town outpost, I deemed it worthy of the Burger Hall of Fame. Though the P-Town location is closed for the season – and hopefully it will re-open in the spring – the burger can be enjoyed at the restaurant’s Jamaica Plain location.
One for the Hall of Fame
As the year’s end is a time of reflection, I do remember that when I was young and unformed, my idea of burger goodness was a trip to Wendy’s. What a long, strange trip……
by glenn on December 19, 2011
I’d won a contest.
The email notification read,
”Hi Glenn,Congrats! You’ve got yourself a seat at our Mac n’ Cheese Tasting/Pairing at Church THIS Friday, 12/16 .”
Awesome.
I”d come across the contest sponsored by Google Places while reading a post on Just Add Cheese. I entered with no intention of winning. But I did. I’ve dined at Church before and was eager to return. Chef de Cuisine Jon Gilman does “creative comfort food” and as daylight becomes scarce and the temperature dips, I need to be comforted and what better way than with Mac’n’ Cheese. In this case, not one but five comforting opportunites.
The Line Up
- Mozzarella, Romano, Basil, Balsamic Tomato Relish
- Pale Ale Vermont Cheddar, Mushrooms, Truffle Oil
- Goat Cheese, Toasted Winter Squash, Spicy IPA Pepitas
- Monterey Jack, Poblanos, Chorizo
- Gorgonzola, Worcesteshire and Stout Glazed Onions, Braised Beef
The evening was hosted by the warm and vivacious Adri Cowan. My fellow diners were an assortment of bloggers – food and otherwise – tweeters, bon vivants and other interesting persons.
- The first – only four more to go!
We were offered a choice of two draft beers from Church’s somewhat limited “on tap” menu. (However, their “by the bottle” selection is quite extensive.) Since the mac’n'cheese dishes were presented in ascending order of culinary weight – light, simple renditions to more complex and hearty – my server recommended I begin with a lighter brew and move on from there. I heeded his advice and begin with a selection from one of my favorite local brewers, the Steel Rail Extra Pale Ale from Berkshire Brewing, and then went on to another local brew, the Ipswich IPA.
This was mac’n'cheese heaven. All Chef Gilman’s renditions were enthusiastically received with the exception of the “Monterey Jack, Poblanos, Chorizo” iteration (too much heat). I really enjoyed the first, “Mozzarella, Romano, Balsamic Tomato Relish – the milkiness of the Mozzarella, the pungent kick from the sheepy Romano and the sweetness of the grape tomatoes. All evening though I was anticipating the final creation, “Gorgonzola, Worcestershire and Stout Glazed Onions, Braised Beef”. And I wasn’t disappointed. Judiciously balanced, it was chock full of umami, beefiness and Blue cheese funk. However, as one of my dining companions stated, it didn’t seem like mac’n'cheese. Yes, it was wonderfully over the top.
I haven’t yet mentioned the extraordinary cocktails at Church. These libations alone are worth the trip to the Fenway. Nor have I mentioned the ambience of Church – not the physical aspects of decor – but the human aggregation. Young professionals, students, punksters and rock’n'rollers plus people of a certain age – comme moi. My tablemates and myself were admiring the sequined shirt of a man in group of middle-aged revelers. Was it new or a keepsake from his disco youth? I would like to think the latter.
Thanks to Adri Cowan and Google Boston, Chef Gilman and Church.
