From the category archives:

Cocktails

Snapshot – backbar

by glenn on April 11, 2012

The discreet signage

Through a discreetly marked orange door and down a somewhat  unfinished hallway interspersed with steel-framed industrial doors – such is the passage to backbar, sister establishment of Journeyman. Visually, the bar is unlike any other in Boston. On one side, white washed brick walls; on the other, chalkboard walls; at one end of the room, a cozy bar and seating with modernist design touches; at the other end, high backed upolstered banquettes face each other across the room with low tables large chunks of unfinished wood; DIY industrial lighting; an intriguing graffitti-inspired piece of wall art highlights a portion of the white brick wall; the servers’ station a large piece with multiple drawers, compartments and shelves that appears to have been salvaged from an early twentieth century office. Was I in Portland OR? Brooklyn? I felt entirely at home. Yet we weren’t here for cutting edge design but for the drinks. backbar opened at the end of 2011 and is part of the current surge of craft cocktail watering holes that have recently opened in Boston. backbar traces its lineage, like so many, back to Drink, a fact which gave me pause before this, my first visit. Would there be rules and regulations? We were once scolded for attempting to save a seat for a late arriving friend. During another visit, we witnessed a woman being chastized for moving a bar stool to accomodate one of the members of her party. Fortunately, backbar isn’t like Drink in this respect. It does however take after its parent by creating superlative cocktails. The cocktail menu is merely a formality – the mixologist will create a drink according to the patron’s specification. Since it was “International Gin and Tonic Day”, I felt obliged to have gin but wasn’t really in the mood for a G&T. So I asked the server if I could have a gin-based martini that incorporated St. Germain. What I got was an “M.O.P.” (“Means of Preservation”) – gin, dry vermouth, St. Germain, celery bitters and a strip of grapefruit peel squeezed over the glass to express the grapefruit oils. It was outstanding – perfectly chilled, perfect dilution, perfect balance and a multilayered profile. My WDWU colleagues – Katrin and Rodney – were equally impressed with their selections; particularly toothsome was Katrin’s “Vesper” made with St. Germain. (And it was shaken, not stirred.) 

For food, backbar offers small bites – such as fried cracklings (“Pigato Chips”), warm olives – but the emphasis is on cheese and housemade charcuterie. There is a rotating selection of each. We chose a large combo plate that featured a selection of three charcuterie items and three cheeses plus an assortment of interesting and delicious accompaniments. The prepared meats were all excellent but I was most taken with two of the cheeses: the Belgian washed rind “Chimay” – bold, assertive; and fresh goat’s milk curds from Hillman Farm in Colrain – a perfect taste of spring. To accompany our cheese and charcuterie, we switched to wine. At the bar, two whites and two reds are available; in addition, selections may be made from Journeyman’s wine list. From that list, I chose a Syrah based wine from the Languedoc, Mas d’Agalis “Yo no Puedo Mas”. It was delicious and was a good companion to the food. 

The wonderful combo plate (foto by Katrin)

This was an enjoyable evening – we weren’t scolded at all. Our servers were both friendly and professional – the winning combination for a bar. And the food and drinks were definitely top-notch. 

backbar   9 Sanborn Court   Somerville MA

Backbar on Urbanspoon

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“One Last Fleeting Taste of Summer” – Libations for Your Labor Day Celebration

by Eleni-Glenn-Katrin on August 31, 2011

Looking for beverage suggestions for the upcoming holiday weekend? Here are our recommendations to make your celebration more enjoyable -

Glenn recommends-

As this was the “Summer of Riesling”, I’ve included my current go-to Riesling, the “Girl” having supplanted the lovely “Eroica” which has become too dear for everyday imbibing. Herewith, the 2010 Kung Fu Girl Riesling from Charles Smith, wild child rock’n'roller and star winemaker.  His current enterprise, Charles Smith Wines : The Modernist Project, produces wine for ” the modern wine drinker” by which he means the wines are readily accessible and as such don’t need to be cellared.  This Reisling comes from a single source – The Evergreen Vineyard – in the Columbia Valley AVA. In the nose, lime, acacia, sweet herbs and white peaches; on the palate, fruit juicy, smooth, opening up to a vibrant acidity; a solid mouth-watering finish. And did I mention the dose of minerality? FYI – this is a dry Riesling for those seeking to avoid any sweetness. Available at Whole Foods 340 River St. Camb. MA $12.99.

And since grilling may be the preferred mode of cooking this weekend, I offer this Plonk Pick – the 2010 Labouré-Roi  Pinot Noir. From the south of France, this wine, while it might not showcase Pinot Noir typicity, has much ripe fruit – of the red and black sorts - with a dose of earthiness balanced by decent acidity and some tannins. A great value for the price and a good addition to your holiday beverage menu. Available at Whole Foods 340 River St. Camb. MA $6.99 on sale.

Though some may think that Gin and Tonic is perfect as is, the Tonica al Fresco, a cocktail devised by Dale DeGroff, author of “The Craft of the Cocktail” takes this standard on a holiday spin.  Cynar, an Italian digestif derived from artichoke leaves (!) and orange bitters are added to a G and T  – 3 parts gin – preferably Tanqueray 10 –  to 1 part Cynar in an ice-filled highball glass;  followed by 2 dashes of orange bitters (I use Fee Bros. West Indian Orange Bitters); then topped with tonic water;  finished with a squeeze of a lime wedge. The Cynar and bitters add a depth to the drink that isn’t usually present in a G and T.

Katrin recommends -

My current recommendation is the 2010 Domaine Richou L’R d’Anjou

This is a fantastic wine for that transition time between summer and fall.  I’m not at all ready to give up rosés yet, but want something a bit heartier than some of the delicate sippers I’ve enjoyed all summer.  The Domaine Richou L’R d’Anjou fits the bill perfectly.  Just from the fairly deep magenta tone, you can tell that this blend of 80% Cabernet Franc and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon is not going to be a dainty wine.

Cranberry and raspberry with a strong presence of dried herbs that borders on tobacco leaf, particularly on the palate. Full-bodied, the mouthfeel has great medium plus acidity with just a hint of residual sugar and more tannins than you get in most rosés. Long tight finish that has a lovely stoniness.

At Central Bottle for $17.

In addition, two wines I very much enjoyed this summer -

2009Trivento Amado Sur White

As a big fan of Torrontés, Argentina’s signature white varietal, I have relished the interest that this wine has been receiving of late. It has been great to see the number of wines coming from producers stretching from Salta down to Mendoza expanding on store shelves. There aren’t many blends among them, but the Trivento Amado Sur is an interesting one that combines Torrontés (75%) and Viognier (15%), two very aromatic, floral varietals, with the more malleable Chardonnay (10%).

As I poured the light golden yellow wine into the glass, the aromas lifted out. It was, of course, very floral with rose petal, peach, and orange. On the palate the citrus combined with spiciness. With medium plus acidity and medium body, the floral notes and spiciness are carried through the long finish. As I often do, I tasted the Amado Sur again on the day after I opened it and founded it even more enjoyable. I initially thought that the Chardonnay was just filler to help tone down the characteristics of the Torrontés and Viognier, but what I found on the second day was that those green apple flavors I associate with Chardonnay really emerged and added another dimension to this interesting summer wine.

At Colonial Spirits of Acton for $14.99.

2009 Schloss Vollrads Rheingau Riesling Qualitätswein

Wines of Germany has declared July as the month of “31 days of German Riesling,” and really what could be better in the middle of summer than this lovely and aromatic wine. German Rieslings tend to be low in alcohol, but full of flavor, so you can enjoy an extra glass without having to pay for it in the morning. At 11.5% abv, this Riesling had the highest alcohol level compared to the others in the store.

The Schloss Vollrads comes in an extra fancy fluted bottle secured with a Vino-Seal, which is a glass stopper. This is a beautifully aromatic wine. The nose and palate are filled with peaches, lemon, and lime rind, along with stony minerality and a nice touch of petrol. Just a bit off-dry, but with juicy acidity the Schloss Vollrads is ripe and full. There is a hint of bitterness in the long finish. A perfect wine for a warm summer evening!

At Julio’s Liquors for $15.99.

Eleni recommends-

In Greece, it’s a “green” or a “brown”.  In Egypt, a “Stella” is the leading brand (not Stella Artois).  And in Germany, I just love ordering beer for a crowd and just adding on the factor: “dreimal bier, bitte.”

What better drink to savor the long weekend and to accompany various outdoor parties than a beer.  And instead of bringing the oldies but goodies in the green and brown bottles, why not try a large bottle you can consider sharing (or not), and spark some party conversation.

A Chimay Bleu is a classic and if you can’t find it or don’t want to pay that much for a beer, try another color label Chimay.  They are all delicious.

Heading to Canada for the long weekend?  The Chambly Noire (Black Hat), made in Chambly, Quebec by Unibroue, it is a dark brown “black ale” with notes of wood, coffee, and fruit.  In the mouth, ripe fruit, vanilla, cloves, and chocolate.  A solid choice.  6.2% alcohol.  $6.95 for a 25.4 oz bottle.

Love Chimay or Duvel but want to branch out?  La Divine, made in France, is “delicate” in color and in smell: flowery, fruity, and woody in the nose.  The sweet taste of apples, pears, caramel and spice complement the bitter finish.  A solid offering but it won’t knock your guests’/hosts’ socks off. 8% alcohol. Retail: $9.95 for a 750 ml bottle.

All three selections are conversation worthy.  For a bit more information: http://winedinewith.us/2011/07/14/bastille-day-at-the-bastide/

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He Said, She Said – Boston Food Bloggers Dinner at Wagamama

by glenn and katrin on June 23, 2011

Boston Food Bloggers

GLENN – Wagamama has been named “London’s most popular restaurant” multiple times by the Zagat Survey. Founded in 1992 utilizing the model of a Japanese ramen shop, the chain of restaurants was an immediate hit in London town. Several years ago, when the corporation decided to expand across the pond to Boston, there was a lot of buzz in the Boston food press about the invasion of this British fave. I took in the buzz, but didn’t go to the newly opened restaurant which set up shop in Fanueil Hall. Frankly – and pardon my peccadilloes –  why would I want to dine with a mess of tourists and conventioneers? Though additional restos opened in Harvard Square and the Prudential Center, Wagamama had fallen off the map for me. Back to the present. The chain’s expansion, stalled by the recession in the US, is again moving forward. With a revised menu and looking to generate some buzz, the restaurant hosted a dinner for Boston Food Bloggers at the Prudential Center location and we of Wine Dine With Us were there.

KATRIN - The restaurant’s location in the Prudential Center’s “Fashion Court” is a bit amusing. Sure, it has an Asian hippness to it, but with a view of the Olympia Sports store across the hall, you can’t escape knowing that you are in an American shopping mall. The set-up is both functional and efficient with long tables and benches designed to accommodate both large groups and multiple smaller parties, like a modern version of Durgin Park.

Wagamama Glazed Ribs

GLENN – The bloggers dinner turned into a full-blown banquet – we were presented with six “starters,” four “mains,” a ramen noodle bowl, and finally the house signature  salad. We were generously served multiple plates of each.  As befitting a noodle shop, there were – pardon me – oodles of noodles. I had three dishes I would certainly endorse: the Wagamama glazed ribs – meltingly tender ribs tossed with a sweet chili hoi sin sauce; the teriyaki salmon soba – grilled salmon, perfectly cooked, lightly lacquered with teriyaki and served over teppan-fried wheat noodles; and the yasai (vegetarian) noodle salad – a riot of seven vegetables plus greens, tossed with whole wheat noodles.

Suribachi Chicken Wings

Beef Chan Han

KATRIN - The seemingly endless stream of dishes emerging from the open kitchen was nearly overwhelming, offering varying tastes, textures, and temperatures. At the end, I gave up trying to tell the different noodle dishes apart. By far the teriyaki salmon soba was my favorite dish. After enjoying the spiciness of the suribachi chicken wings and savory ribs, the beef cha han came off as flat and flavorless. Overall, the many menu options, good prices, and service that appeared to be efficient, but not rushing, Wagamama offers value driven meals that will please a range of palates.

Teriyaki Salmon Soba

Chicken Chili Ramen

GLENN  – Though Wagamama Pru doesn’t have a full liquor license, they just debuted a cocktail menu building on the beer, wine and cordial license they do have. Drinks incorporate freshly squeezed juices, muddled fresh fruit or both. I found three of the six offerings outstanding – Jinja-Nashi – rum liqueur, fresh ginger root, lime, mint, and Asian pear juice; Ringo Martini – sour apple and honey bourbon liqueurs with apple juice and lime; and the stellar and crowd favorite at our table, Kyuuri Martini – cucumber muddled with rum, lime, and ginger. I tried in vain to get the recipe for this delicious libation, but corporate confidentiality requirements prohibited the staff from revealing its exact nature. I will attempt to recreate this one at home.

Wagamama's Iced Cocktails: Jinja-Nashi, Kokonatt, and Sake Kiri

KATRIN – If I were at a regular bar, ordering a pre-dinner cocktail, I would have shrugged off any of the cocktails that we sampled as too sweet and tootie fruity for my taste. However, they really complemented the dishes we had and the fresh ingredients from the juice bar made them quite enjoyable. And I certainly plan to order the Kyuuri Martini on a future visit. Many thanks to our hostess Nancy Barrett, Wagamama’s Director of Marketing, the restaurant’s accommodating and fleet-footed manager and the rest of the staff.  And finally, a great big thanks to Rachel Blumenthal for organizing yet another fantastic gathering of Boston food bloggers! 

The Popular Kyuuri Martini and the Ringo Martini

Wagamama

Fanueil Hall Marketplace,  Quincy Market Building, Boston

Prudential Center, 800 Boylston Street,  Boston

Harvard Square, 57 JFK Street, Cambridge

*Take out, delivery and catering  available*

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Tyku?

by eleni on January 11, 2011

Glow in the dark.  That’s all I needed to hear; I was sold on buying a bottle of Ty ku; after all, Halloween was on the rise.  A friend who works at Dartmouth told me about it because an alumnus created it (incidentally while he was a grad student at Columbia).

[Halloween? Why are you writing this in January?]

It didn’t glow.

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The Burger Chronicles – The Flat Patty at The Gallows

by glenn on October 27, 2010

Yankee CuisineI’m certain there’s a certain sentiment among those who don’t live in the South End but come to The Gallows of wishing that the restaurant were their neighborhood joint; The Gallows generates a certain neighborhood envy. Even though I don’t live in the South End, The Gallows has become a destination for me, not only because of the quality of the cocktails and food, the good value and friendly service - in addition to an interesting and diverse clientele –  but it also provides a convenient spot to meet up with friends in the city. Based upon the favorable review in The Globe and my endorsement , I was meeting my friends from the Dinearound here.  Last month, we ate at the Garden in the Cellar; this month, we were hopping across the river to the South End. We began with cocktails – the Roxbury Russet, an homage to the apple variety discovered centuries ago in Roxbury involving Laird’s Applejack and the Chupacabra, a potent and flavorful drink based upon mescal. Both were excellent. A shoutout to the bartenders! We moved on to shared appetizers and entrees. The winners here were the Caramel Bacon Popcorn – bacon, bacon everywhere – and the Pork and Beans. The popcorn is a tease – it comes in an appropriately sized bowl, yet by the time you reach the bottom, you wish it came in the largest mixing bowl in the kitchen – it’s just that good. The show stopper was the Pork and Beans which consists of confit pork belly and grilled loin, darkly colored and flavored baked beans over a generous slice of brown bread and house-made pickles - so Yankee, so Saturday night supper.  We finished with two desserts – our favorite the Bananas Foster Fluffernutter Brulee – a ramekin of peanut butter mousse, caramelized bananas and chocolate sauce, covered with Fluff and then torched. The level of hospitality here is outstanding. I was recognized from my previous visits and thanked, not once but twice, for coming back. As I replied, it’s easy to come back but I wish The Gallows were in my neighborhood.

But I’ve digressed. The intent of this post is to add the burger at The Gallows to The Burger Chronicles; so here goes……..

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Vermouth Cont’d – The Quality Quandary

by glenn on September 2, 2010

When i began mixing cocktails at home, I was in a quandary. One of the principal tenets of my culinary training had been an emphasis on quality ingredients – to make a superb dish, begin with the best raw materials. In other words, no silk purses from second-rate pig ears. I was using good, if not excellent, base spirits – no Mr. Boston in my house – but the vermouth that was available to me, as well as to other at-home mixologists, was industrial grade, suitable for powering lawnmowers or flame throwers. (I  know I’m exaggerating, but not that much.) And the thought of drinking these vermouths as aperitifs – as some in the craft cocktail movement advocated – was totally unfathomable to me. And then I discovered Vya Vermouths. [click to continue…]

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Hanging Out at The Gallows – He Said, She Said

by glenn on July 30, 2010

Cathedral of the Holy Cross, Boston, Massachus...
Image via Wikipedia

(Disclaimer –  I apologize – but not too profusely – for the title of this post. Having been “born bad” – without a sufficiency of better judgement – I just couldn’t resist; yet I’m positive I won’t be the only blogger guilty of being lured to triteness. Glenn.)

Glenn – The subject line of Katrin’s email was “Next new place”. Opening it up, the text was brief “The Gallows another gastropub in South End”. I had recently received a Zagat email about the place and knew that the people who did The Biltmore, the original gastropub in the Western Suburbs, were behind the project. Gastropub, bistro, brasserie, tavern - whatever – I thought the concept bordered on being overworked. However, as the recession continues – and continues – the idea of mixing good cocktails and comfort food continues to have appeal. We’ve been to some of the best and most inspired – a “tavern” in a boutique hotel – and the not so good and lacklustre – a “bistro” in a clothing store on the waterfont. So, why not try another? And they also serve up that somewhat minor food trend – poutine – straight from the canon of French-Canadian cookery.

Katrin - The interior is simple but well-designed with eye-catching design details. Plus looking out to the street from the bar area, the expanse of windows are filled with the Cathedral of the Holy Cross across the street. We both started with cocktails; Glenn had the “hysteria-inducing” Elisabeth Aplegate, which featured gin, absinthe, and cucumber puree, while I chose the Angel’s Share, named for the wine that evaporates during aging. Both were good starters, before the food and wine. The wine list is well-selected and fairly priced, with enough options to keep both of our interests.

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Vermouth – History of

7 May 2010

Image by Travis S. via Flickr

First installment in an occasional series.
Vermouth intrigues me – it’s at the intersection where wine and spirits meet, yielding iconic cocktails. Perhaps it’s my culinary backgound which leads me to find the aromas and flavors so unusual and captivating or my archaeological bent is engaged by the ancient practice of flavoring [...]

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On the Cynar Trail – and a Tip of the Hat to Eleni

26 April 2010

As Eleni mentioned in our post about The Sunday Night Cocktail Class, Adam introduced us to Cynar as a mixing spirit when he made The Dunaway. I was intrigued by the spirit – a bitter, cola-like  liqueur – similar to Campari but not as bitter nor pretty. After the class,  Eleni scanned the internet for [...]

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Campari Calling: Americano

23 April 2010

Winston-Salem: Milano-Torino.
Thankfully this isn’t the SAT or the GRE. But if you visit Campari’s site (which incidentally is repeated word for word on Wikipedia’s entry) you will discover the Americano was first called the “Milano-Torino” for Campari which hails from Milan and Cinzano, the vermouth, endemic to Turin.
The drink is straightforward: equal parts Campari and [...]

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