by katrin on May 17, 2012
Rheinhessen is the largest wine region in Germany and nearly a third of the wines produced there are red wines. Though the 2009 harvest in Rheinhessen was somewhat smaller, it was a particularly good year for ripening Pinot Noir, according to the German Wine Institute. The ripeness shows in this Pinot from Weingut Schäfer, which has a relatively high alcohol level at 13.5%. (The alcohol on most German reds that I have seen usually falls between 11% and 12.5%.) Fortunately, the Weingut Schäfer has a solid fruit base, since the alcohol, which gives the wine a sweet warmth, nearly dominates the palate and threatens to throw this wine out of balance. Aromas of boysenberry, tobacco, lilac, and perfume, along with a slight banana fermentation aroma. The palate has dark red fruit, vanilla, spice, cherry-flavored cough syrup, and a strong mushroom-umami. Light to medium body, medium acidity, and light tannins. Spice and red berry flavors linger, along with some heat. Good.
At Nine Acre Wines for $14.99.
by katrin on May 13, 2012
Tony Soter, who has worked his winemaking magic at Napa’s Etude Wines, Willamette Valley’s Soter Vineyards, and dozens of prestigious wineries over the years, has made a rosé to savor. A couple of years ago, he launched the Soter Vineyards’ second label: North Valley. The North Valley rosé is simply one of the best rosés I have had in recent memory, perfect for anyone seeking a less delicate rosé. This fresh and bright pink wine has a somewhat surprising composition: 80% Pinot Noir, 16% Chardonnay, and 4% Gewürztraminer. The two white grapes were terrific blending partners, giving this rosé a memorable and unique palate. Some rosés of Pinot Noir can be rather light and the Chardonnay helps to make this wine slightly more full-bodied and rounded. Despite being only 4% of the blend, the Gewürztraminer lends its unmistakable aromatics of lychee fruit and rose. Wonderfully mouthwatering with a long, zippy finish. Very good/excellent.
At Martignetti’s for $22.99.
2011 Laurent Miquel Père et Fils Cinsault Syrah Pays d'Oc
For the Rosé Society, this is the time of year to which we look forward. The rosés from the previous vintage are now being released, making their way to our local wine shops’ shelves. For the most part – and there are exceptions – rosés should be drunk within a year following their release. In a way similar to Beaujolais Nouveau but so much better – and classier – rosés are meant to be drunk young.
One of the highlights of L’Adventure Languedoc which we attended at the Boston Conference Center in early April was the abundance of just released rosés. When I realized that the “Père et Fils” was from Languedoc and produced by the young winemaker Laurent Miquel, into my cart it went. Incidentally, the labelling on the bottle would have been inconceiveable in France five years ago: the varietals, Cinsault and Syrah, are boldly proclaimed. In order to compete in the world wine market and, in accordance with European Union classification initiatives, the French system was overhauled; varietals and location where the grapes were grown can now be displayed on wine labels.
The wine is wonderfully fresh with a very definite zip. The aroma is one of ripe red berries. The juicy fruit carries through onto the palate. There is a pleasant softness to the mouthfeel followed by a good dose of acidity. The fruit follows through to the end – and with the acidity – makes for a lovely finish. The result is fruit forward and refreshing, suitable for both quaffing and pairing with food.
A good choice for Mothers’ Day – the low alcohol level of 12.5% ensures that the old lady – I mean your mother – won’t get too unruly.
$9.99 on sale at
Whole Foods Market 340 River St. Camb. MA
"Think Pink!"
The rosé season has begun. Katrin with her review of the 2010 Meinklang Prosa inaugurated our pink season. (And if you find this style of lightly effervescent rosé enjoyable, seek out the one one made by Michlits, another biodynamic Austrian producer.) This is a time of year that we of the Rosé Society anticipate. The Rosé Society – the name bestowed on us by Eleni – is one of several alter egos present at WineDineWith.Us. When we were young wineaux just forming the tasting group that would become this blog, one of our interests was “pinks”. At that time rosés were somewhat controversial – the avant garde of the wine world was promoting them while the old guard was haughtily dismissing them. Times change – the avant garde won, the old guard dottered off - and rosés have become a mainstay of the wine scene.
My first rosé of the season is the 2011 Château de Campuget Tradition Rosé Costière de Nîmes. A blend of 30% Grenache Noir and 70% Syrah, the wine is rightly characterized as a “PLW”, i.e. “ pretty little wine”. And pretty it is. While the producer describes the hue as “peony pink”, there actually is a strong splash of salmon that makes the wine less gaudy than peony would imply. A bowl of mixed red berries, a sprig or two of wild herbs – a delicate nose. The mouthfeel is smooth, rounded, a bit weighty, contrasting nicely with the medium acidity that follows. The wine finishes with some astringency which further adds to the structure. The delicate fruit carries through to the finish. As befits a PLW, there is no complexity here only quaffability. As summer too slowly approaches, get a jump on the season and “Think Pink”.
Available at Bin Ends $9.60
The L’Aventure Languedoc tasting in April that Glenn and I participated in last month was a fantastic opportunity to get reacquainted with the wines of the Languedoc. One of the things that I took away from that tasting was that there are many great wines – not the rough plonk for which it had developed a bad reputation – being made in the region that are available here at quite reasonable prices. Of the dozens that we tasted, one particular wine really stood out: the 2007 Pierre Gaillard Transhumance. Both Glenn and I stood back and said “wow” and savored the sample. It was concentrated, but elegant, and I made a point to seek it out after the tasting.
With May 3 being Languedoc Wine Day on Twitter (#LanguedocDay), it seemed a perfect time to open this wine. Made by Pierre Gaillard, who is better known for his wines from the northern Rhône, Transhumance is a blend of 50% Syrah, 40% Grenache, and 10% Mourvedre. It is from a small appellation called Faugères, which has soils dominated by schist.
At five years old, it showed little sign of fatigue in the glass with a core of dark purple and lighter violet rim. The first aromas to arise from the wine were stone, dust, and minerality. This was followed by dark cherry, a bit of blueberry, leather, and smoke. Cherry jam, cocoa, and spice on the palate. While the acidity gave Transhumance a zippy freshness, the velvety tannins were rather light and short-lived. Spice and heat on the finish. Very good.
At The Vin Bin for $29.99.
by glenn and katrin on April 30, 2012
KATRIN: Over the years – and especially before we even launched the Wine Dine With Us blog – we have attended quite a few wine dinners. The best of these wine dinners bring together a winery and a restaurant that complement each other stylistically and philosophically, resulting in food and wine pairings that bring out the best of each other. The April 23 dinner at Harvest in Cambridge with David Hopkins, the winemaker at Bridlewood Estate Winery, did just that. We were impressed by both the quality of these well-made wines and the flavorful dishes. In fact, early on, Glenn leaned over and asked me to tweet “Most incredible wine dinner ever!”
GLENN: Several years previously, we had attended a dinner at Harvest that featured the wines of Hamilton Russell. Now, there was a new chef in the kitchen and a winery with which I was unfamiliar. I was put partially at ease when I met the Bridlewood winemaker David Hopkins, a genial gently aged surfer dude. And then I had a sip of Bridlewood’s Monterey County Chardonnay and knew that the evening’s wines would be just fine. Here was a Chardonnay with rich fruit – but no annoying tropical fruits – and good acidity, a wine ideal for pairing with food. Yet there was something intriguing about the wine. With the first course of the perfectly seared scallops – caramelized without, creamy within – I was put totally at ease: the food was going to be spectacular.
KATRIN: Part of David’s winemaking philosophy is that he makes wines first and foremost for himself. He explained that he likes good food and wants a wine that will go well with the meal. He looks to make sure that the acidity and tannins are to his liking and that the fruit is varietally correct. In Old World fashion, he aims to create wines that can age and that express the terroir – a term that has become almost a dirty word among American winemakers. The Chardonnay was a perfect balance of richness, flavor, and food-friendly acidity. The Pinot Noir was elegant and a wine I will look forward to trying again. Tipping its hat at the Rhone and California’s Rhone Rangers, the Blend 175 (50% Syrah, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Viognier, 10% Grenache) was approachable and rich with black and blue fruits, licorice, and black cherry.
GLENN: Simply put, David Hopkins likes to talk about his work and does it well. Each course and its accompanying wine led to detailed discussion about David’s winemaking, both in terms of both philosophy and practice. I did find out what made my Chardonnay so intriguing. Taking a cue from the French, he adds a bit of Viognier that elevates this wine from the ordinary. Of the evening’s five wines, I most enjoyed the Monterey County Pinot Noir, a wine that proves that the craze for Cali Pinot – sparked by Sideways – was well founded. Not overly extracted nor excessively alcoholic, the wine is redolent of Bing cherries, mushrooms and autumn leaves with the requisite acidity to be food-friendly. In fact, Mr. Hopkins does not make the often typical low acid, high alcohol California fruit bombs. The Pinot accompanied the Tenderloin Tartare which was outstanding. In fact, all the courses were excellent and thoughtfully composed. Even though we had previously enjoyed Chef Mary Dumont’s food at The Dunaway House in Portsmouth, the meal at Harvest showed just how much her considerable talents have evolved. Kudos to Chef Dumont and her staff!
KATRIN: The wines were a delightful change of pace, proving that there some winemakers in California who are willing to buck convention and make wines that are profoundly enjoyable without the whopping alcohol levels and heavy extraction. And David Hopkins is one. Special thanks to Jenna Buhagiar of Fleishman Hillard for putting together this perfect match and for inviting us to this media-only dinner and to David Hopkins for making the evening fun and fact-filled!
The Menu and Wine Pairings
Seared Scituate Scallop
Richter Farm Rhubarb, Celery, English Peas, Candied Ginger & Celery Salad
2008 Monterey County Chardonnay
Painted Hills Tenderloin Tartare
Caperberries, Crispy Shallots, White Truffle Oil & Toasted Country Bread
2008 Monterey County Pinot Noir
Roulade of Giannone Farms Chicken
Wild Mushrooms, Green Garlic, Fava Beans, Vanilla Scented Carrots
2010 Central Coast Blend 175
Rooibos Tea Marinated Pennsylvania Duck Breast
Bing Cherries, Fennel, Soy Beans, Forbidden Black Rice
2010 Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon
Toffee Chestnut Cake
Milk Jam, Mead Jelly, Orange, Sheep’s Milk Frozen Yogurt
2010 Late Harvest Viognier
by katrin on April 29, 2012
If ever a wine called to me from the shelf of a wine shop, it was this one. From the pink cow and butterflies on the label to the cork fastened down with loops of string to the enticing strawberry-salmon color that seems to shine in the clear bottle, I was destined to leave the store with the Meinklang. But only after the sales person assured me it was dry. After all, with an alcohol level of merely 10.5%, I wondered if this was going to be a sweet sipper. Low alcohol, pink, biodynamic, and the winemaker is a woman – could it get any better?
The nose and the palate are redolent of a basket of red, ripe summer fruits – strawberries, sour cherries, and raspberry. After the initial charge of intense, mouth-watering acidity, the wine’s light bubbles dance around in the mouth. There is just a hint of residual sugar, but with the acidity I was actually glad for it. Medium body and a long, red-berry finish. This wine became richer and more flavorful when it was between refrigerator and room temperature. Delicious.
At Brix on Broad for $19.99.
