I braced myself as I poured the 2011 Don Miguel Gascón Colosal red blend for the first time. Colossal: the name suggests enormous, immense, powerful. Would this be a tannic monster of a wine? Will my teeth be stained purple permanently? Would it need to sit and breathe for hours before being drinkable?
Not at all. To my surprise, Colosal was actually quite pleasant and approachable. As one might expect from a Mendoza-based winery that is renowned for its single-varietal Malbecs, the blend is dominated by 61% Malbec. The balance is completed with 16% Bonarda, 13% Syrah, and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon.
In the glass, it is an opaque purple, so dark that it is nearly black at the core. The nose had lots of plum and dark berries. On the palate, blueberry, raspberry, and cedar emerged. The wine was jammy and ripe, but not at all flabby. A bit of roasted meat from the Syrah rounded out the palate. Contrary to my expectations, the wine had medium-minus tannins, acidity, and body. Although I think that this offering from Gascón is a pretty decent wine and a good value – enough so that I served it to a gathering of more than 40 guests – I have a lingering impression that it is a bit manipulated. Nevertheless, as I said, it is an approachable, well-priced wine.
Purchased at McKinlay’s Liquors for $12.99.