For this year’s Rosé Roundtable, the Wine Dine With Us group sampled eight wines, spanning Europe and the US. We were delighted that there were so many excellent, interesting, and unusual wines in this group. Unlike previous years, there were no duds and no snoozers. And after having had too many bland pinks, it restored our faith in rosé.
So, just in time for the warm weather that has finally arrived and the long weekend ahead, here are the highlights of our tasting. And if you’ve had a great rosé recently, be sure to leave us a comment here or on our Facebook page!
2010 Gurrutxaga Txakolina Rosé
Bizkaiko
The Gurrutxaga comes from the Basque region in the far northeast corner of Spain. An area of diverse geographic features, including rugged mountains, the ocean, and rivers, there are many microclimates here. This wine is made of 100% Hondarribi Beltza (and yes, I will confess, that this is the first time I have heard of the varietal!).
The color is a pale raspberry blush. The nose is incredibly ripe and fruity, like strawberry jam or a cordial, with a touch of tarragon. The palate was a surprise: herbal, perhaps even vegetal, and not fruity. Bright, bone dry, high acidity, and a slight fizziness.
At Central Bottle for $21.00.
2009 Chateau Virgile
Costières de Nîmes
This rosé from the southern Rhone Valley showed as a pretty pale salmon in the glass. While previous vintages were dominated more by Syrah, the 2009 vintage was a blend of 80% Grenache and 20% Syrah. The nose had plenty of strawberry and spice, while the palate reminded me of cherry cola. The mouthfeel was a bit softer than I expected, but had a nice rounded feel to it.
At Wachusett Wine Trader for $8.99.
2010 Ameztoi Rubentis Txacholina Rosé
Getariako
Another intriguing selection from the Basque region. Produced by the Ameztoi family, which has been making wine in Getariako for generations, this rosé is a 50/50 blend of Hondarribi Zurri, a white varietal, and Hondarribi Beltza, a red.
Very (very!) pale. The nose is a mix of fresh red berries and minerality – really a chalky, baby powdery quality. Medium plus acidity, with a spritziness that is characteristic for wines from the region, and light tannins. This is a bright, refreshing, low-alcohol wine that will be perfect for any warm summer night.
At Whole Foods Market River Street for $20.99.
2008 Arcane Cellars Pinot Gris Rosé
Willamette Valley
This rosé is made solely from Pinot Gris, which usually is vinified to make a white wine. Arcane Cellars is the only winery in the US to produce a rosé from white grapes.
Ripe, almost candied nose, with lots of herbal notes, cherry, and strawberry. It is a touch oxidized, a characteristic that comes across more on the palate than the nose. All of that fruit is held together by a very structured mouthfeel – high acidity, moderate tannins, some bitterness, and a touch of residual sugar. An interesting and unusual wine, this rosé of Pinot Gris is worth seeking out.
At KJ Baaron’s for $13.99 (reg. $18.99).
2010 90+ Cellars Rosé (Lot 33)
Languedoc
This blend of Syrah, Grenache, Cinsault, and Mourvedre was very typical. I don’t mean that in a bad way; it’s just that after some of the other rather unusual rosés, the 90+ Cellars was exactly what we expect from rosés from the Languedoc. We compared it to taking a trip back to the beginning.
There is an immediate sense of minerality here, followed by fresh fruit, particularly strawberries, and cassis. Herbs were a key part of both the nose and palate. Bone dry with medium plus acidity and a lingering finish. It is summer in a glass!
At Kappy’s in Medford for $9.99.
2010 Bodegas Borsao Rosé
Aragón
The Borsao comes from the lower part of the Ebro River, a region known for being heavily planted with Garnacha, and this wine is indeed 100% Garnacha. Modern techniques in the vineyard and winery yield a fresh, easy-going wine.
While the nose and palate show fresh red fruits, like raspberry and strawberry, there is an herbal, almost green, quality that comes across. While it is not a wine that demands to be pondered deeply, I think this is a bright, fruity, and very likeable selection, especially at the price.
At New Hampshire Liquor & Wine Outlet for $7.99.
2009 Bonny Doon Vineyards, Vin Gris de Cigare
Central Coast
Though Grenache from the Alta Loma Vineyard accounts for 83% of the wine, white varietals from the Rhone play a significant role with 10% Grenache Blanc and 5% Roussanne. The wine is rounded out by 2% Cinsault.
Possibly the most reserved of the eight wines tasted, a pale salmon in the glass and a restrained nose. I find it a little surprising, given winemaker Randall Grahm’s flair. A touch of residual sugar added depth and interest to the wine, showcasing the fruit; strong acidic finish.
At Central Bottle and Provision for $14.
2009 Chateau d’Aqueria
Tavel
And we end in one of the key rosé-producing regions, the Rhone’s Tavel, which by law can only produce rosés. The Chateau d’Aqueria was founded in 1595 and today is the largest single estate in Tavel. This rosé is predominantly Grenache (52%), with the remaining components being 12% Syrah, 11% Mouvédre, 9% Clairette, 9% Cinsault, 6% Bourboulenc, 2% Picpoul.
A pretty, light pomegranate in the glass. The nose and palate show sweet herbs, raspberry, floral notes, and a peppery spiciness. There’s lots of texture here with a light effervescence and tannins, and the finish is dry and very pleasant.
At New Hampshire Liquor & Wine Outlet for $14.99.
