Terrific Torrontés, Argentina’s Signature White Grape

Part of the Beyond Malbec series.

My introduction to Torrontés came in 2003 over dinner with friends in Argentina. Herman, the host, was delighted to hear that I had never tried Torrontés. “Perfecto!” he exclaimed. “You must learn this wine. It is very popular here.”  An outstanding cook, Herman prepared chicken in a creamy lemon sauce. Both the dinner itself and the wine in particular left an impression on me. The next morning I headed out to the nearby cooperative in search of it. I could barely believe that I could buy this aromatic, food-friendly, and slightly unusual wine for a mere four pesos (at the time, the equivalent of $1.30). Ever since, I have been fascinated, even slightly obsessed, with this varietal.

Go back even five or six years ago and Torrontés was essentially unheard of in the US. Now I am pleasantly surprised to find that most wine shops sell at least a couple. In fact, while my plan had been to compare three wines, I couldn’t limiting myself and ended up with six examples: a couple from wineries that I was familiar with, a couple from wineries that were new to me, and one organic wine. There are many choices in a very affordable price range; my selections ranged from $8.49 to $15.99.

So, from Salta, in the far north of Argentina, down to Mendoza, let’s look at the first three wines.

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2009 Crios by Susana Balbo

Salta

Susana Balbo of Dominio del Plata Winery makes great wines, including some of the best quality values to come out of Argentina.  For several years now, her Crios Torrontés has been what I consider to be the varietal’s standard-bearer for quality and style.  It is the wine that I have recommended to friends looking for an introduction to the varietal or wanting to try something different.

The 2009 has lots of tropical fruit, orange blossom, and rose water on the nose, which is quite intense, while lemon drop candy and pineapple dominate the palate. The Crios have very good acidity and a long-lasting, mouthwatering finish. It is a bit hot and has medium plus body. Overall, I think it is very good and continues to be an excellent example of this varietal.

Widely available for about $13.

2009 Santa Ana Eco

Cuyo

The origin of the Santa Ana was vaguely labeled as “Cuyo”, which is encompasses three of Argentina’s wine-producing provinces – Mendoza and the lesser-known provinces of San Juan and San Luis. The nose comes on strong and with great typicity – floral notes with mango and fresh-squeezed orange and lime. And while the nose really shows well, the flavors on the palate are weak. It has refreshing acidity. The Santa Ana Eco has a much shorter finish than the others.  It scores points for being organic, but otherwise it was not the best of the tasting.

At Whole Foods in Dedham for $8.99.

2008 Nieto Senetiner

Mendoza

Did I take a wrong turn and end up in Australia?  My first, and subsequent, reactions to the Nieto Senetiner Torrontés is that it could easily be mistaken for an Australian Riesling – petrol and lime juice with some floral notes. The palate again has that Riesling-like petrol, along with lime and peach. It is dry and slightly bitter, like the pith of a white grapefruit. Lots of acidity here.

At Warehouse Wine & Spirits for $11.99.

Tagged as: Argentina, Beyond Malbec, Review, Wine