There are certain wines that are just so fitting for a particular season. Rosés from Provence, for example, bring to mind relaxed summer days. The red, white, and rosé wines of the Loire Valley – with their crisp acidity, lighter body, and generally gentler tannins – inspire similar images. With several weeks of summer still to come (I hope!), there was no excuse for missing the tasting of the wines of Jon-David Headrick Selections at Brix Wine Shop on Broad, so Glenn and I quickly signed up.
Since its founding in 2005, this importer has focused on wines produced in small quantities by family-owned wineries. Most of the wines of Jon-David Headrick Selections are organic, some are biodynamic, and all produced with the least amount of manipulation and intervention in the field and the winery, allowing that famous French terroir and sense of place to shine.
Our guide through these elegant wines was the knowledgeable and charming Loire-native Laurent Noblet. Laurent explained that the Loire Valley is a diverse wine-making region. With 68 appellations and counting, all styles of wine are produced there: dry to sweet, still and sparkling, red, white, and rosé. There is a strong Burgundian influence, as many winemakers head to Burgundy early in their career to learn their craft.
Here are quick descriptions of the seven wines we tasted:
NV Jean-Francois Merieau Touraine Brut “Bulles”: As Glenn noted in the previous post, a glass of sparkling wine really sets the tone for an evening. We were greeted with this blend of Chenin Blanc and Chardonnay when we arrived. With its delicate mousse and lemony palate, it was an excellent start. $22.99
2008 Michel Delhommeau Muscadet Sevre et Maine “Cuvee Harmonie”: This Muscadet exceeded my expectations, having been disappointed recently by another well-reviewed Muscadet. Minerality, lime, and green apple come together with a briny character to make a wine that had us craving oysters. Lots of acidity here. $14.99
2007 Domaine Vacheron “Romaine” Sancerre: My favorite white of the evening. As Glenn noted quite accurately, “it has the most incredible grapefruit taste.” This Sancerre has a beautiful richness and body that is balanced by acidity. Even though the wine spent 18-24 months in new oak, it is not at all over powered by the barrel ageing. $62.00
2005 Domaine du Viking Vouvray “Tendre”: As we tasted the previous two white wines, I couldn’t help but think that the Vouvray had the color of pound cake. Full-bodied, rich, and honeyed, it was not far off. While Lionel Gauthier, the winemaker, considers this wine to be “off dry,” it would certainly be approaching the sweet category for most American palates. Gauthier is one of the few winemakers left who still ages wine in old chestnut vats. $23.99
2009 Jean-Francois Merieau Gamay de Touraine “Le Bois Jacou”: What a great value and super summer red. Freshly crushed strawberries and raspberris with a touch of spice really just made me want keep my nose in the glass. It is 100% Gamay. Laurent described the wine making as “semi-carbonic maceration,” explaining that the winemaker destems the grapes before maceration. $15.99
2008 Domaine des Huards Cheverny Rouge “Le Pressoir”: There was something quite unusual about this wine, and a couple of people questioned whether it might be corked or have some other fault. Lots of cooked fruit in the nose and palate, mostly plum and blackberry. It is a blend of 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Gamay. $23.99
2005 Domaine Roche Neuves Saumur Champigny Rouge “Marginale”: My favorite red. The winemaker is originally from Bordeaux and it comes across in this wine. 100% Cabernet Franc from a great vintage (the wine is actually only made in the better years), the Marginale has it all – concentrated fruit, spice, some rustic notes, high tannins, and high acidity. $47.99
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