I became reacquainted with roses when I began my wine studies at Boston University. I had originally met up with pinks many years before when Mateus had been my go-to wine for special occasions. At BU, I learned that roses were acceptable warm weather stand-ins for red wine. However, my instructors at BU – as most true cognoscenti – were ahead of the curve. When I went looking for roses at Kappy’s, my neighborhood package store, there were none to be had. When I asked the sales person why there were none, he said that they weren’t popular, no one bought them. At that point in time, wine “ connoisseurs” considered roses to be declasse – serious wine drinkers kept a safe distant from them. Yet, wine fashions change - word has gotten out that roses are not outre but perfectly acceptable. In the last two Plonk Patrol posts, I had written about two roses- the Mulderbosch Cabernet Sauvignon Rose 2009 SA and the A to Z Oregon Rose 2008. I had been overwhelmed by both of these wines which I thought were trying too hard to be red wines. I wanted something light, summery. So, I was off to Kappy’s for another go-round; this time, though, where once there were none, I was now faced with not less than twenty pinks. For this Patrol, I changed my criteria – since I had just written about two roses, I would get four wines in the $10 to $13 range. I also narrowed my search to only French roses – my Francophile bias.
- Domaine Houchart Rose Cotes de Provence 2009 $9.99. I first had this wine several years ago at thenow shuttered “Dish” in the South End. At the time, the wine made a vivid impression. Since then, it has gained in popularity and become quite ubiquitous. A blend of Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault, Cabernet Sauvignon and Mourvedre – all vinified separately – this wine is a great summer quaff. On the nose, very ripe red berries with sweet herbs; in the mouth, the fruit gives way to a spicy acidic finish. A good value.
- Chateau de Flaugergues Cuvee Rosee Languedoc 2009 $10.99. The cepage here is 50% Grenache, 35% Syrah and 15% Mourvedre. As one friend says of another friend’s King Charles Spaniel, “pretty but vacant”. There wasn’t much here in the nose. In the mouth, again not much flavor, yet a medium body with a long acidic finish. I was disappointed since I like this producer’s red wine. However, when pairing this wine with food – linguine with mussels, fennel and tomatoes, there was some redemption.
- Chateau Pesquie Terrasses Rose Cotes du Ventoux 2009 $12.99. The blend here is of Southern Rhonevarietals – 50% Cinsault, 40% Grenache and 10% Syrah. In the nose, simple red berries; smooth with a bit of weight in the mouth; a good acidic finish with some astringency.Ventoux is a “value” appellation – good wines for less money than those from more famous neighboring areas, such as Tavel. That being said, for me, theDomaine Houchart is the better value.
- Domaine JM Raffault Rose Chinon 2009 $12.99. Changing locales and leaving the south of France behind, the next rose comes from the Loire and the grape is Cabernet Franc. A nose of ripe strawberries, a bit of white pepper; quite smooth on the palate with a bracing acidic finish. A good value.
To me, at least, roses aren’t very serious wines – though I admit there are some exceptions. As the wine writer Michael Schuster opines, roses are about context – the context of summer pleasures. Enjoy them and enjoy the season.
