Plonk Patrol at the Packy

by glenn on April 16, 2010

Springtime value shopping.

Plonk Patrol at the PackyI’d been hearing the ads for Atlas Liquors on the radio for years. Since it was time for a springtime patrol, I decided to finally check out the place. Atlas Liquors has three locations – Medford, Roslindale and Quincy. I chose the Medford store since it’s closest to me. The place reminded me of the local packy from my hometown; packy is New England vernacular for package store, that establishment that sells beer, wine, booze, cigarettes, beef jerky and lottery tickets. Yet times have changed.  Atlas has a solid craft beer selection, a wine selection that more than covers all the basics and a very reasonably priced liquor selection. So I wheeled into the parking lot, grabbed a shopping cart and was off on another Plonk Patrol.

My agenda for this patrol was straightforward – to find wines appropriate for the new season. I was looking for some fruitful whites, some picnic reds and  some BBQ friendly stalwarts. The selection for value-priced wines at Atlas was extensive; I would actually have some trouble paring down my selection. In the end, though, I did come up with a solid six.

  • My first white was the Montinore Estates Borealis Willamette Valley OR 2008. The winery touts this wine as “the northern whites”. It is a blend of 60% Muller-Thurgau, 23% Gewurtztraminer and 17% Pinot Gris. These varietals can reliably ripen in the cooler climate of the Willamette Valley. This is a very aromatic white and as an added bonus is organic.
  • The next white, Snoqualmie Naked Reisling Columbia Valley WA 2008, is also organic. (Note – naked = organic). The winery has been producing organic wines since the 2003 vintage. And I always feel that I should be swirling more wines from Washington.
  • My first picnic red was the Sepp Zweigelt Neusiedlersee Austria 2008. Zweigelt, for me, is the ultimate picnic wine – light, fruity and eminently quaffable, and of course served lightly chilled. Weingut Sepp Moser is a biodynamic winery.
  • Great values come these days from Spain. My second warmer weather red was the Bodegas Ateca Garnacha de Fuego Old Vines Calatayud Spain 2008. This is a collaboration between the eminent Spanish importer Jorge Ordonez and the Juan Gil winemakers of Wrongo Dongo fame featured in a previous Plonk Patrol.
  • Since I’m doing more grilling, I was in need of some appropriate reds. I’ve always liked The Old Vines Mourvedre from Cline in Sonoma Valley. What I found instead was the Cline Syrah Sonoma County CA 2007.  Smoke and pepper – what better to go with the grill? Though not organic nor biodynamic, the winery follows principles of sustainable agriculture. The owner of Cline is also a co-owner of The Green String Farm which supplies such Bay Area restaurants as Chez Panisse.
  • And finally, my splurge – at $12.99 –  the Domaine de la Garrigue Cotes du Rhone 2008.  A custom cuvee made expressly for the importer Eric Solomon, it’s a blend of of 65% Grenache, 25% Mourvedre and 10% Syrah. The grapes come from declassified Vacqueyras vineyards.

I had a selection I was quite pleased with – Old World and New, organic, biodynamic or sustainable, red and white, light-bodied and hefty. At checkout, the moment of truth. Remember the Plonk Patrol guideline – six wines for $72. My total was $73.25 – done in by my Cotes du Rhone, but close enough. Right? Until next time, your value wine advisor.

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