Say Cheese

On Sunday April 11th, The Bueno Queso Social Club held the inaugural meeting of its fourth year. Previously, I’ve written about my passion for cheese  and the  BQSC in the post  “It’s the Most Wonderful Class of the Year“. Now, once again, we were gathered for further gastronomic adventures with Robert at the helm ably complimented by Derek the wine guy. In addition to our usual chef, Morgan Bigley, we had a guest chef, Robert from The Butcher Shop. All were assisted by Judy from the sushi and wine shop Seiyo. The theme for this class was charcuterie – the ancient art of preserving meat through curing, smoking, salting and the manufacture and cooking of various forcemeats. Robert also had a line-up of cheeses to round out the menu. Derek’s choice of wine was mainly Italian – according to him, Italian wines and charcuterie make the best pairings. On to Round One……..

We began with a chicken galantine. Chef Robert explained the considerable time and technique involved in preparing this item. The galantine was moist, subtly flavored with “quatre epices” and pistachios. The accompanying wine was the 2007 Terlano Lagrein Rose. Yes – 2007. As Derek explained, this rose is meant to age unlike the usual flood of cheap pink that runs its course in 6 months. The cheese component for this course – yellow and buttery – was The Chase Hill Farmstead Cheese, produced from raw and organic milk in Hardwick, MA. The cheese is modeled on the colonial cheeses produced in MA. by the earliest settlers, the production of which continued until the end of the 19th century.

Next up – Duck Rillets. Chef Robert explained the process in making rillets, again, one that was labor intensive, but well worth the effort. To accompany the duck, Derek’s choice, a sparkling – or frizzante – Lambrusco. This was not your mother’s “Cold Duck”. The Villa di Corlo “Rosso Estrella” was fruity, off-dry and lightly sparkling. Some had a problem with this wine – the sweetness, the bubbles –  but others – like myself – thought it perfect with the duck. The cheese was The Foxboro Cheese Asiago, made in the shadow of Gillette Stadium (!) by the Lawton family. The cheese is sold young and could use some affinage to attain its peak flavor.

 The duck was followed by the pig – Jamon Serrano – the exquisite salt and air cured ham from Spain. Derek’s choice was the 2008 Griesbauerhof St. Magdalener Classico vinified from the indigenous Italian varietal Shiava. The accompanying cheese was the star of the afternoon – the Istara Ossau Iraty – that venerable and incomparable sheep’s milk cheese from the French Pyrenees. My question is why can’t American cheesemakers make a sheep’s milk cheese this good?

 Following this was more pig – porchetta,a boneless rolled pork roast that incorporates every part of the pig prepared by Morgan. Derek’s choice of wine was the 2007 Sanguinelo Rosso di Montepulciano. This Tuscan wine from the Sangiovese grape was the crowd favorite.

 And finally, the rabbit.  Chef Robert had prepared a hearty rabbit and chicken liver pate that Derek paired with – finally! – a French wine, the 2008 Domaine Magellan “Le Fruit Defendu” VDP Cotes de Thongue made from 60 year old Cinseault vines. And the final cheese was Ewe’s Blue, a Roquefort-style cheese from the Old Chatham Sheepherding Co. As a bonus, Derek poured the St. Louis Kriek Lambic from the Castle Brewery Van Honsebrouck. For those who’d never had a lambic, this was a revelation – a low alcohol black cherry soda. It was the perfect pairing with the blue cheese.

A new year for BQSC – and an auspicious beginning – good folks, good food, good cheese and good wine. But, most important, a great respect and appreciation for the fruits of the earth and those who devote themselves to producing them.

Tagged as: Cheese