Wine Review: 2003 Tikal Patriota

by katrin on April 12, 2010

Let me get this out of the way:  I like Tikal wines. I like them a lot. I also really enjoy Luca wines.  Each brand is made by children of Nicolas Catena and represents some of the best New World-style wines coming out of Argentina today.  A few months ago, KJ Baaron’s, a wine shop in Worcester, was pouring the 2003 Tikal Patriota at a tasting.  The price was right, so I bought all seven of the bottles they had in stock.

The first bottle was right on target: full-bodied and jammy. As soon as I pulled the cork on the second bottle, however, I knew it was different. Butterscotch and apples immediately emerged from the bottle like a genie.  I poured the golden wine into my glass in disbelief. Did I read the label incorrectly?  Pretty quickly I came to the conclusion that we were going to be enjoying Luca Chardonnay that evening – not a bad substitute, but not what I was expecting! Though the label read Tikal, the cork had Luca written on it. Given that Tikal and Luca use the same opaque, heavy bottles, I have no way of telling which wine is in the remaining bottles. And while I secretly am hoping for some more of the Chardonnay, I am still very pleased with the Patriota.

Made by Ernesto Catena, Tikal Patriota is a blend of 60% Bonarda and 40% Malbec – Argentina’s top two grape varieties. Despite being a 2003, this wine is still a very dark purplish garnet, with very little difference between rim and core. The nose is blackberry and plum jam with vanilla oakiness. It coats the mouth, with moderate acidity and relaxed tannins, but is quite full-bodied. Its black fruit is complemented by mocha, spiciness, and a hint of smoke.

My only real criticism of this wine is that it is packaged in a bottle that is unnecessarily heavy (but that’s a topic for another time).  Whether the next wine is the Chardonnay or the Patriota, I know that I will enjoy it.

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