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My primary responsibility for any family gathering is to “bring the wine”. When you study wine for two years at Boston University, force your friends to drink your homemade wine and start a blog with your fellow wineaux, somehow you’re labeled for life. So be it. I accept this burden without reservation (mostly because I always get to drink what I like).
This holiday season being no exception, I headed down to Running Brook Vineyards in Dartmouth, Massachusetts for a locally themed selection and start my own pre-celebration with a tasting or two (or twelve as it turned out).
I was happily greeted by Running Brook’s proprietor, Pedro Teixeira. A dentist by vocation, Pedro started Running Brook with Manual Morais in 1998. Not entirely sure what the less than hospitable New England climate could produce, they’ve been quite successful taking what the terroir will give them to make wines worthy of your consideration and on par with other, more well-known, north east wineries.
We started with three Chardonnays. Oaked and Unoaked 2007s and a 2005 Reserve. The 2007’s were comparable in quality and style to what you would expect from the region. The 2005 “unfiltered” Reserve, however, benefited from it longer time in oak and malolactic fermentation and was more complex and full bodied.
Next we moved on to two Pinot Gris‘, 2007 and 2008. The 2007 Pinot Gris underwent malolactic fermentation and stripped the wine of all of its malic acid and left it somewhat flabby. The 2008, on the other hand, was spared malolactic fermentation and was quite refreshing and lively.
Onward and upward we went to the reds, a 2007 Cabernet Franc and a 2007 and 2008 Merlot. Now, I typically avoid red varietals from cool climates like H1N1. Pedro, being the very gracious host that he is, smiled and encouraged me to try them anyway. And I’m glad he did because the 2007’s had very little tannin, good acidity and were devoid of perceptible vegetal characteristics of under-ripe fruit. The 2008 barrel sample was a different story but I’m willing to try it again after it undergoes a bit more aging.
An example of Running Brook’s adaptability, Pedro let me try the 2009 Merlot. Rose of Merlot that is. This years wet summer considerably shortened the growing season yielding tragically under-ripe fruit. So, instead of throwing the baby out with the bathwater, Pedro decided to make a rose, or White Merlot as he plans to call it. I have to say, from early indications, this wine will be special. I am looking forward to its release.
Lastly, came the 2007 and 2008 off-dry Vidal Blancs, 2005 Late Harvest Vidal Blanc and a 2007 Auslesen. The off-dry Vidal Blancs are a local favorite as indicated by the stream of customers buying up what they could for their holiday festivities. The Late Harvest was unctuously sweet but retained a good amount of acidity. The Auslesen was reminiscent of a Sauternes but the 2007 failed to live up to the extra special vintage that was the 2005.
All in all, I couldn’t have planned a more pleasant afternoon wine tasting. If you have the chance, make your way over to Running Brook and the other vineyards of southeastern MA and RI. It’s worth the trip.
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