Braving the aftermath of a Nor’easter, a very self-select group of gastronomes and turophiles gathered at the Middlesex Lounge for the Bueno Queso Social Club Champagne Brunch. An assortment of folks ranging from anthropologists to sommeliers met to indulge in the glories of champagne, fine cheese and good honest food.
First, a brief history of Bueno Queso Social Club is in order. Robert Aguilera, as cheesemonger at Formaggio Kitchen, was holding monthly Sunday night in-store cheese tasting which were wildly popular. As a child in Texas, Robert spent Sunday afternoons with his extended family, eating and visiting. In a flash of genius, he combined the educational piece from the tastings with the conviviality of his family’s get-togethers to form Bueno Queso. Where some had come to spend time listening to music, some would now come together to savor cheese. With the assistance of Derek Whitaker, wine rep for Atlantic Imports, and Julie Capellano, manager at South End Formaggio, Bueno Queso Social Club came about in the beginning of 2007. Over time, the cast of characters who present at each class has changed but the focus is always cheese. Now, back to the brunch.
Derek had chosen six champagnes which would give us a virtual tour of the champagne region and the various styles of champagne produced. All were estate champagnes, i.e. the grower of the grapes vinifies the grapes and sees to the resulting wine’s elevage. At the moment, this is the hottest ticket in champagnes – so hot that even the WSJ deemed the topic worthy of an article. While Derek may be a wine rep by day, at heart he is an outstanding and passionate wine educator. The wines ranged from the racy and provocative Varnier-Fanniere Blanc de Blanc Brut NV Grand Cru to the rich, voluptuous 2000 Pierre Peters “Les Chetillons” Brut Crand Cru. Robert, with the assistance of Vince Razionale, domestic cheese buyer at Formaggio Kitchen, presented the cheeses – a Belgian sheep’s milk, the sublime Beringse Gouda, the inimitable Comte Marcel Petite “Le Fort”, and for “stinky” lovers, the Tomme de Chevre Muscadet – all pairing well with the wines. During this year, Chef Morgan Bigley has come onboard to handle the savory components to our classes. His menu for the brunch did not disappoint – champagne-cured salmon, sausage and truffled eggs, Pommes Boulangere, chicken liver mousse and, my favorite, a terrine of golden beets, hazelnuts and goat cheese. Our repast concluded with exquisite truffles made by long-time member Susan Uttal.
We left, venturing out into the cold, snowy mess, elevated by good wine, good cheese and good food, but best of all, by good company.
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