by glenn on July 30, 2010
(Disclaimer – I apologize – but not too profusely – for the title of this post. Having been “born bad” – without a sufficiency of better judgement – I just couldn’t resist; yet I’m positive I won’t be the only blogger guilty of being lured to triteness. Glenn.)
Glenn – The subject line of Katrin’s email was “Next new place”. Opening it up, the text was brief “The Gallows another gastropub in South End”. I had recently received a Zagat email about the place and knew that the people who did The Biltmore, the original gastropub in the Western Suburbs, were behind the project. Gastropub, bistro, brasserie, tavern - whatever – I thought the concept bordered on being overworked. However, as the recession continues – and continues – the idea of mixing good cocktails and comfort food continues to have appeal. We’ve been to some of the best and most inspired – a “tavern” in a boutique hotel – and the not so good and lacklustre – a “bistro” in a clothing store on the waterfont. So, why not try another? And they also serve up that somewhat minor food trend – poutine – straight from the canon of French-Canadian cookery.
Katrin - The interior is simple but well-designed with eye-catching design details. Plus looking out to the street from the bar area, the expanse of windows are filled with the Cathedral of the Holy Cross across the street. We both started with cocktails; Glenn had the “hysteria-inducing” Elisabeth Aplegate, which featured gin, absinthe, and cucumber puree, while I chose the Angel’s Share, named for the wine that evaporates during aging. Both were good starters, before the food and wine. The wine list is well-selected and fairly priced, with enough options to keep both of our interests.
Glenn – I have to say I really admired the design and typography of the menu. I know that stylistically it references the historic nature of the Sound End site where The Gallows sits – that of the colonial hanging ground of Boston on the Washington St. neck – but I found it well done. And what a menu! We finally picked 5 items – 2 from the “hors d’oeuvres” section, 1 from the “meats section”, 1 from the “poutine” section and 1 from the “mains”.
Katrin - The menu presented somewhat of a quandry, offering too many dishes that both of us wanted to try. In the end our five items were a bit too much food, though everything was excellent. Our hors d’oeuvres were a satisfying variety of tastes and textures. I was still thinking about the Buffalo Chicken Livers today and how perfectly spicy and delicately crispy they were. The firm Bourbon pickled peaches were still firm and subtley sweet and sour. We shared the traditional poutine and the Meyer Ranch Brisket, both of which were generous portions and would have been perfect on a chilly fall evening.
Glenn – Without a doubt, the Buffalo Chicken Livers were my favorite. Why hadn’t I seen these before? I also liked the pork terrine – well seasoned and presented and so reasonably priced. I like this trend that we’ve been seeing of house-made charcuterie. The poutine was fine but as I said earlier, I think of this as a somewhat minor trend.
Katrin – In closing, The Gallows was a delightful dining experience – the setting, the service, and the food. I am very much looking forward to returning and trying some of the other offerings, especially the platters. Great addition to the growing list of gastropubs in Boston and to the South End.
by glenn on July 26, 2010
No – this post isn’t about what plonk is appropriate for breakfast. There is only one wine suitable for that meal – champagne. Rather, after a late breakfast at the Ball Square Cafe – recommended by Chef Morgan from the Sunday Night Supper Club - I came upon Ball Square Fine Wines and Liquors. When I had lived in Somerville, the store had been a somewhat hole-in-the-wall packy – now, having taken over the space next door, it was twice its former size. I wandered in and was greeted by wall-to-wall wine, a multitude of craft beers, a small but thoughtfully selected offering of spirits and a case filled with a solid selection of American and international cheeses. The packy had been transformed. I knew this would be a good Patrol. [click to continue…]
by glenn on July 19, 2010
Central Bottle and Provision is a busy place. A wine shop with a unique and well chosen inventory of wines from small producers, delicious take-away food and a great cheese wall and case, it has an ambitious calendar of events – chef demos, meet- and- greets with winemakers, a weekly wine bar (or the occasional beer bar) and a staff of congenial folks who actually appear to enjoy their jobs. There is also a seasonal cheese series consisting of four classes – spring, summer, fall and winter. The series is moderated by cheese master Robert Aguilera and David Seaton, the cheesemonger of Central Bottle. I had missed the spring class – I was at The Wine Riot - but I signed up early for the summer session which was devoted entirely to goat cheese. [click to continue…]
by glenn on July 15, 2010
Glenn – What a concept! Combine social media and networking with foodies and end up with an event at a restaurant. I know that the success of the Korean taco trucks in L.A. is fueled by Twitter – but this is Boston and Mystery Meet is the new frontier in the internet food scene here. The premise of Mystery Meet is simple – contact foodies through email and Twitter and announce a date for a tasting event. Then, closer to the date, announce the location. People show up and have a great time. And we did. This was the inaugural event hosted by Mystery Meet and was a success.
Katrin - Alternative dining experiences have intrigued the winedinewith.us team since before the launch of our blog, leading to the creation of the Sunday Night Supper Club and participating in underground dinners. Founded by Seth Resler, the Mystery Meet is a fabulous way to meet local foodies and try different restaurants.
Glenn – I had always wanted to eat at Ten Tables but traveling to Jamaica Plain can be daunting. Their second location in Cambridge, in the space vacated by Craigie Street Bistro – now Craigie on Main – is much more accessible for me. After checking out the menu online to get a feel for the chef’’s cuisine – and finding it quite appealing – I was looking forward to the Mystery Meet.
Katrin – I first checked out the wine list and thought that it was carefully selected and interesting. Plus the menu looked great.
Glenn – The tasting menu – 4 courses for $40 – was well planned – composed salad, fish course, meat course and dessert – some items chosen from the current menu while others were created especially for the event. For an additional $25, wines could be paired with each course. I thought this to be great value. I would be hard pressed to pick my favorite course – all were freshly and thoughtfully prepared using as may local ingredients as available. I appreciated the visit to our table by the chef, David Punch, to discuss the food and answer our questions, but also to inadvertently receive kudos for such fine food. Also, service, under the direction of Ian Rose, the GM, was outstanding.
Katrin – The salad (Prosciutto Americano with Asparagus, Fava Beans, Shaved Pecorino, Walnuts
& Black Truffle Vinaigrette) was a perfect starter. Those of us who opted for the wine pairing had the choice of three white wines. The second course was the fish course. Some at our table had cod over cherry tomatoes and cucumber gazpacho; others got the bluefish with sugar snaps, yellow Indian woman beans and spicy chorizo sauce. The accompanying wine was the Jean Luc Colombo Rose. I’m not a big fan of bluefish, but it was well done with a savory and crispy top. The next course was a stand out: Berkshire pork over freshly-shucked corn with chipotle butter. And finally, the dessert. Again some of us had the rich chocolate terrine with sea salt and Thai basil ice cream and others Greek yogurt panna cotta with strawberries and saba. (Foodie quiz of the day – “What is saba?”)
Glenn – I really enjoyed the wines we were served. Also, I thought it quite hospitable to offer several choices for each course rather than just being given a pour. The Colombard and Ugni Blanc blend from Gascony was the perfect summer white – aromatic, lemony and crisp. Since I’m a fan of Crus Beaujolais, I was pleased to be offered a Moulin a Vent. And, as a former pastry chef, the selection of dessert wines was varied and gratifying – a late harvest Zinfandel, a Banyuls and Vin Doux Naturel of Petit Manseng.
Katrin – Super idea, Seth! Great execution, Ten Tables! Thanks for a fun evening!
by glenn on June 22, 2010
I was going to a small Solstice Eve dinner. Of course, I would bring the cheese. I wanted cheeses that would be perfect for summer – either fresh or, if aged, at their peak. So I was off to Central Bottle and Provision to consult with David, my favorite cheesemonger. Central Bottle always has an everchanging inventory of great domestic and international cheeses. David is always seeking out interesting new cheeses, bringing in the best that he can procure from his purveyors. And he always offers many samples – questioning me about cheeses I’ve purchased in the past to determine what I might like of his current stock. I taste, I judge, we move on to the next. For my Solstice cheese plate, I wanted to present the trinity - cow, goat and sheep. After a bit of back and forth, an exchange of cheese-world news and gossip, I had my three. [click to continue…]
by katrin on June 14, 2010
One of the many great things about Argentine wines currently available on the US market is the diversity of styles that can be found. While my last post featured an example of an oaky wine in the New World style, I found myself opening a more streamlined and rustic wine today. Though both are from Mendoza and made of a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, and Merlot (though in different proportions), the Cicchitti Blend is remarkably different.
Right away, the bright ruby-purple color gives away the fact that the Malbec is dominant. The nose is more restrained, but eventually warms up to plum jam, earth, hay, and cassis. While there are some hints of oak, it definitely takes a backseat. In the mouth, it has more cherry and cassis flavors, withdry, earthy qualities.
The mouth feel is less smooth and integrated than the Finca Flichman – the tannins are rougher and the acidity fairly high, making for a taut wine. Yet despite this, the finish is fairly short, and the wine does not seem to have enough fruit to balance out the tannins and acidity. Overall, not a great wine on its own, but it goes well with food. It reminds me of how Argentine wines tasted before winemakers focused on meeting the tastes of the international market, before the flying winemakers, before heavy investments in new equipment and techniques in the vineyards and wineries – a touch rustic, a bit simpler.
The Cicchitti Blend was purchased for under $15 on a recent road trip to Buck’s County – though this actually came from a great little store across the Delaware River in Stockton, New Jersey.
by katrin on June 13, 2010
If you are looking for an excellent example of a New World-style red wine for less than $20, this could be the wine for you. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, and Merlot, the Paisaje de Tupungato is an impressive Argentine wine, made by a winery that is celebrating its 100th anniversary this year.
In the glass, it is deep ruby with a hint of some brick coming through. The aromas lift right out of the glass. There’s an immediate vanilla oak sweetness, followed by black cherry, plums, red currants, and some cedar. The palate carries forward the same fruits, but with a slight herbal quality, perhaps dill, mocha, and some spiciness.
One of the reasons I like this wine so much is that it is very well balanced and integrated. The new oak, while obviously present, does not overwhelm the wine, but rather adds tannins and flavor complexity. The acidity, tannins, and alcohol are well-proportioned and in balance. And the plum and red currant flavors are part of a lasting finish. Check it out at Federal Wine & Spirits for $17.99.
